Mercury Mountaineer

According to the 1997 Mercury Mountaineer owners manual :

Your 4R70W automatic transmission takes ( Motorcraft MERCON automatic

transmission fluid )

* the type that is used should be engraved into your automatic transmission

fluid level dipstick *

5 quarts, 5w30

below the drivers door , mounted on the frame rail for the body

you may have a circuit or you can check your doors for any malfunctions

I have a 2002 Moutianeer, and not to long ago had a problem with the shifting. It would struggle, then shift real hard into 2nd. I had to have a tramsmission overhaul done. Thank God it was under warrenty.

I also have a broken power seat in my Blazer. The piece that is broken is the plastic worm drive shaft. I have not figured out how or had the desire to repair it yet. I was able to keep the seat upright by getting the worm drive slightly passed the broken point and leaving it there. I was able to do this by lifting the back of the seat with my hand while pressing the electric button to raise the back. (with a little jiggling). To fix it looks like a difficult job after you get the part. It would probably be easier to buy another used seat.

1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8

It has the Coil On Plug ( C.O.P. ) ignition system with ( 8 ) individual coils

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of Mercury Mountaineer ( V8 )

Bolted to the bottom of the engine block INSIDE the oil pan

I bought one new in 1997 it's a 1998 model and i love it. no major issues

It is important to have a diagram when repairing a heating system in a car. A Mercury Mountaineer heating system diagram can be found in its maintenance manual that can be found at auto part stores.

Antifreese degrades through time and dilution, and may not afford the same protection that it first did.

On a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer :

The ELECTRIC fuel pump is INSIDE the fuel tank . It is installed through an access hole on the top of the tank

okay. first is no very easy but i replace one a ready. they have two clips on the upper and

lower side (driver side) of radiator. second one more clip on the pass side(lower of radiator) unlock the clip and slide the radiator to the driver side. is the only way to replace

this part. first remove fan cluth for that you need a special tool. onse you remove fan cluth you can remove the rest. becaruful, you need time for this. last time i spend 6 hours. good luck.

Jack it up,remove the front tires look it over closely then unhook what you need to. but ideally it should be done by a qualified person cause it could be expensive if you get killed while working on it.

Fuse # 17 is a 25 amp fuse for the cigarette lighter in a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer

Because they broke yo!

With engine oil filter change ( 5 quarts / 4.7 liters ) for the V6 and V8 engines

The low pressure port on a 1998 Mercury mountaineer is located on top of the ac drier. The drier is mounted close to the radiator on the passenger side.

The fog light switch is located to the right of the radio. Why I have no idea. It's under the rear window defrost and wiper controls. It's just a funny looking button with the light symbol with some lines beside it. The fog lights will only come on when you have the headlights on LOWBEAM. Switching them to hi turns them off. I'm sure there's a way around that but I haven't had mine long enough to find it.

Bank 2 is the drivers side of the engine sensor 1 is in the exhaust , close to the engine , before the exhaust passes through the catalytic converter

( 5 quarts ) with engine oil filter change

I've had the opportunity to do this self-repair job. It ain't too fun. It will take you all day for 4 wheels if you have AWD and if it's all wheel drive, you have to buy the entire hub assembly because the wheel bearings are sealed and not replaceable. It's about a three hour job for each front wheel and an hour or so on the back for the average do it yourself-er like me. I take breaks but an obsessive-compulsive can probably do all wheels in four hours if you already have the parts. You can get everything you need Autozone. The front assemblies are the most expensive at about $170 each. The dealer will charge you $350 each for the fronts and that doesn't include installation.

Step by step:

Remove the tire

Remove the entire brake caliper and use string/wire to hang it out of the way. DO NOT LET THE BRAKE HOSE SUSPEND THE CALIPER! DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG FROM THE BRAKE HOSE! Use something to hold it out of the way other than the brake hose.

Remove the large locking nut on the center of the hub. Do not re-use it. Get a new one for reassembly. That sucker is on there big-time tight so you will need an impact wrench. You will not be able to remove it unless you have a 6 foot cheater bar or an impact wrench and I've never seen a 6 foot cheater bar. If you don't have an impact wrench you will not succeed at this project. Go to Lowe's and pick up an electric one for 40 bucks. They're awesome for removing lawnmower blades too! Do this before you take things apart so you can drive your car. :)

After removing the hub lock nut, remove 3 bolts behind the hub assembly that hold the assembly to the strut.

Remove the wiring for the antilock. It runs up the wheel well and into the engine compartment.

After everything is unbolted/unwired, remove the hub assembly by pulling it. You may need a may need a rubber hammer or some leverage to get it to move. Be careful not to damage the splines on the spindle once the hub is removed.

Do everthing in reverse to put it back on.

Get a Chilton's repair guide to help. They've got good pictures of the parts. You can get these at Autozone as well. Autozone is nationwide so I'm sure there's one near you somewhere. If not, any other parts store should have the same stuff. You must ensure you torque the bolts to the correct lbs and a repair guide will give you these numbers for your year model.

Once you're done, have a beer and remember, you have another front wheel to go and two on the back. The back is easier. :)

I Have removed many axle nuts and it can be done with a breaker bar. Mine is about 2 feet long and has a 1/2 inch drive. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH TO INSTALL ANY FASTENERS. FIND THE TORQUE SPECS AND USE THE PROPER TOOL (TORQUE WRENCH) AND SETTING!

There is a problem with the SRS. This is not a DIY repair. Take this to a professional.

you do not it is factory sealed the fluid if no leaks will last a life time so ford thinks

car run good but has a little vibration idle or running