Mitsubishi Eclipse

look at the engine, is there a snail shell looking thing attached to the front of the engine...if so then u got one.

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If your Eclipse is a GS or RS it did not come from the factory with a turbo. the engine should be on the passenger side of the car. That engine is a 420a.

If you have an Eclipse GSX or GS-T then you have a turbo charged engine. the engine will be on the drivers side of the car. this is the 4g63 engine.

it is possible to have a 420a with a turbo, but someone will have had to put it on themselves, and you would probably know that when you bought it.

Dead cell in the battery or corroded or loose battery cables.

the only stock lancr that has a turbo from the factory that isn't an evo is the 09 lancer ralliart. if you would like to buy a turbo kit for a new 2008 lancer or above, you can find one at roadracemotorsports.com.

their is no performance mods for these cars no mater what you do.

their cows

I would take it to someone like the dealer since it is a pain ( I did one this weekend) you have to have a screwdriver coming from the top and the bottom of the transaxle case and push in the throw out bearing while you push back on the transmission.

Look under the panel where the dashlights are, there should be 2 screws.

There is a single phillips head screw holding each light in, you remove it, the lights should come out. To get the bulb out, there should be two tabs on the back side...you twist counter clockwise (left) then pull out

well first off there is two ways to do it. the first and easiest is to pull the timing belt cover off. next is the daunting task of pulling the harmonic balancer. this will require the use of a special puller. the difference in this puller from other harmonic pullers is that this one has a rod (approx 1/4") that goes in the middle of the puller and pushes the rod and pulls the wheel. conventional pullers try to push the center out of the balancer, this WILL NOT work on a 420A motor. You will have to have this special puller, fortunately my snap-on guy had one that is now mine, but you could probably pick one up from NAPA for a couple hundred bucks. next you will need to set the crank, with the belt still on and tensioned, to where the mark on the crank lines up with the mark on the actual motor block. Now simply mark the camshafts with a hammer and chisle SO THAT YOU CAN LINE THEM UP LATER!!! You can now take loose your timing tensioner and proced with your work. reasseble and keep your marks lined up. if you FORGOT TO MARK YOUR CAM SPROCKETS, then you have a little work to do. (bet you won't forget again) the second way requires removing the cylinder head. first unbolt the timing belt cover, to do this you will need to remove the tentioner roller assembly (both rollers, one is stationary, one is mobile and is pushed by the tensioner) and you will have to remove the entire cylinder head. this is most easily done with the intake intact. second you will have to remove the coil packs and spark plug wires. remove the valve cover bolts using an 8mm socket. next remove the rocker arms with a 10mm socket. after that, remove the cylinder head bolts with a 15mm socket.(long ones go in the center, short ones on ends). now remove the cylinder head and take to a clean location for further disassembly. you will now need to loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts, located on the front of each of the sprockets. you can do this by placing a pipe wrenh on the camshaft on one of the areas that has not been ground(the shiny part) DO NOT PUT WRENCH ON CAM LOBES, BIG BIG BIG BIG NO-NO NO-NO. break bolts on cam sprocket loose with an 18mm wrench. pull sprockets straight out, don't beat on them just wiggle and they will come out. now remove the camshaft pillar block bolts (ends first, then the centers). the blocks SHOULD be marked from the factory, if not, mark the position and direction so that each can be placed back the exact way it came out.( most have an arrow with an "f" poining to the front of the block, a "l" or "r" depending on the cam side and a number, to signify the position FROM the front. the seal housing/pillow block will be #1 on both sides and graduating as you go toward the back)take cyl head bolts out and store. you will need a permanant marker, good light and a torpedo level, yes a torpedo level. place the head on a relativly flat surface. put the level on it an check, doesn't have to be perfect but try to get it as close as possible. now take the camshaft and turn it by hand, It should turn pretty freely. (your rockers should already be off) now here is what i get paid the big bucks to do. if there is not a small set of notches in the sprockets (they would look like chips in the side), here is what you do. facing the front of the head take the LEFT camshaft and turn the key (the little round thing the sprocket shaft fits into) and place it in the down position. now position the level vertically (up and down) and gauge the CENTER the key and the sprocket hole perfectly vertical, so you will be actually covering up half of the holes with the level and half the key. MARK THE SHAFT AND THE BLOCK. this is Intake Dead Center and DO NOT move the camshaft. now we will set the Exhaust Dead Center. this is a little more tricky than intake so pay close attention. now facing the front of the head, take the RIGHT camshaft and position it much the same way you did the intake(left camshaft), but have the key in the up position. take the level and repeat the steps from before and get it in perfect vertical levelness. facing the front of the head, you should now see the left, or intake camshaft key in the down position, and the exhaust key in the up position. here is where it gets hairy. place the camshaft sprockets back on the the shafts, but don't bolt them in, now carefully look over the top of the head. pay particular attention to the position of the teeth of the sprockets to the top of the head. NOTE: the top of the head is simply a landmark as to where the position of the shafts are, using the teeth. take right (exhaust) cam and move it back 1/2 a tooth CCW (counter-clockwise).JUST THE RIGHT CAMSHAFT. using the method that i described above, level the right camshaft perfectly vertical. look at the teeth in realtionship to the top of the head they BOTH should be in a valley of one of the teeth. if the left(intake) is not in a valley, then rotate it CCW until it is in a valley. now mark the position of the shafts, without moving them, in the inside area of the camshaft sprockets. take sprockets off and lay on a hard surface. lay them side by side, lining up the marks you made in the previous step. now take a hammer and a chisle and make a little mark on you sprockets so you dont have to do this all over again. 2ndNOTE: when you lay the sprockets down, the writing on the one on the left should be right-side-up, the left, up-side-down. now if you are really good you can take and line the sprockets up perfectly, ignoring the marks for now, and while they are laying flat and rotate them both CCW simultaniously 1 TOOTH, the marks you made with the chisle/marker should line up, if not go back a check your steps with the ones in this guide. again, both the camshaft sprockets should have a tooth valley flush with the top of the cyl head. and the camshafts should not look to intersect. do notphysially do it, but imagine if you where to put them together that they would be ridge to ridge, valley to valley you have a timing belt that will be turning them so dont worry about trying to get them interesting, they aren'yt suppose to! reassembly is the revers of disasembly, and i will not dare to utter that again, but do make sure you pick up a haynes book for all of you torque specs, especially for you cyl head and pillow blocks. sorry this s.o.b was so long but you can save some time by marking the timing before you began work, i just have a problem with people bringing me cars that have popped timing belts, so i make pretty good money doing this very procedure. trust me, the factory doesn't want you to know this!!!!

I've got a 2001 convertible - it has 141k so far. Still running well!

It is not in the top hose as one may expect. Rather it is in a hose under that one towards the back of the engine on the right side

The 3.0 L - V6 engine is rated at 200 horsepower in the 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT according to my Consumer Guide book

The start key has a special chip embedded in it that 'talks' to your starter authorizing the inginition. You have to get from the dealer. Then they will program it based on a special code associated with your car. I think it costs around $80-100 last time i needed one.

Loosen the bolt on the tensioner pulley until the pulley freely slides along it's track. Put the belt on, paying close attention to the diagram that should be on the inside of your hood on a sticker. If you don't have one, don't worry, the belt will only fit when it is "wrapped" the correct way. Once you get the belt on, it will still be pretty loose. You will need to tighten it using the tensioner pulley. Make sure the tensioner pulley is tightened down completely.

on the bottom right side of the car by the front passanger wheel. That would also depend on if it is automatic or manual if automatic that is correct manuals dont have dipsticks but rather a plug on the side of the trans to check level and color

There is a drain valve at the bottom of the radiator and you will have to remove the drain bolt in the engine block.

I had this problem 2 weeks ago. to disarm the alarm take out the main battery of the car for 6 hours. keep it in a safe place away from children. after this open the door with the key. even if the alarm goes off sit inside the car. press the unlock button or open button on your key for 3 minutes. leave for 3 seconds then hold down the unlock button for 3 more minutes. after this start your car 3 times and the alarm wil be disarmed. remember, if you cannot be bothered to give your timr up for this it will cost you around 220 pounds. the garage dealers say they will reprogram the system. it is a complete lie they repeat the procedure above and con you 200 pounds. im sure you dont want to be the one who is robbed of this typical problem. its just that simple. Good luck. im 300 percent sure this will work.

there are plastic covers over them on the inside of the trunk that you pop off

Alot of the times you can disconect the positive terminal from the battery and leave it off for 30 minutes or so then put it back on

check out crutchfield's website also for details. 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder Convertible == ; In-dash stereo : 8-11/16" depth; Size code E,S,U ; Front speakers : Dash: 4" : Front Door: 6-3/4" ; Far rear speakers : Rear Seat Side Panels: 6x9"

in 1997 they did not have speed governors. i have a 97 rs with aftermarket turbo and i can go as fast as i want! in 1997 they did not have speed governors. i have a 97 rs with aftermarket turbo and i can go as fast as i want!

Call a Mitsubishi dealer parts counter and they will be happy to give u a photocopy from their manual. Free !

The only way the impound yard can hold a persons vehicle for an extra day is if there is a police hold which dictates a release date. Vehicles can only be picked up during normal business hours of the storage place. So if you call or expect to pick up your vehicle after its closed, then you will have to wait for the next day.

the non turbo 420a makes 140hp and the 4g64 spyder engine makes 141.