Mufflers and Tailpipes

i dont think white smoke comes from the exauts.i think when the engine hase just being started it is cold causin water to evaperate an flow out the exaust.

white smoke from diesel exhaust generally means you have engine coolant leaking internally in engine
very rarely , white smoke can indicate a problem with the turbo

White smoke is an indication that you have coolant in the combustion chamber. Almost always caused by a blown head gasket or cracked head. Stop driving this car until you repair this or you will destroy the engine.

One can purchase an FMF exhaust system directly from FMF's website, or through another authorized retailer such as MotoSport or JC Motors. It is not recommended to buy an FMF exhaust from a secondary source, due to a lack of warranty coverage.

plug up your muffler next time

If vacuum hose to EGR is ok, then valve may need to be replaced, or passages cleaned out.

Burning oil

you can make a loud noisy by screaming or throwing something heavy around

cut the muffler off is all i can think of but you could pick up a glasspack for about 20 bucks at the local parts house.

Just open your freezer you will see the same thing,its just moister.

replace with a new pipe new gaskets and bolts must torch out old bolts from cat Take it to a muffler shop

supertrapp racing series

Push down on the vehicle 4-5 times. If it springs back up 3 times, the springs are worn. This test is not for McFerson struts.

You can't.

you can use a 40series flowmasters mofler on it.

water could cause a service engine light to come on, for example, ignition systems are sensitive to moisture and could cause a misfire and turn the light on. You need to find out what code the computer has set. Some auto parts stores have scan tools to loan.

carbon result of incomplete combustion.

DYNO-PORT

sounds like a small block chevy...the best fix is to replace the seals. they make tools that allow you to pump air into a cylinder so you can repalce the valve seal without removing the head.

If it is only at the start of the day and disappears shortly after startup, it is just condensation in the exhaust that is burning off. Pretty normal, especially in cold or rainy weather.

Unburnt fuel.

yes but u need to have a catalitic converter still attached

My guess is that it's because smoke is hot. Hot air rises, just as cold air sinks. When a fire ensues, smoke (the product of carbon combustion) rises with the hot air.

What color is the smoke? Black - running rich. Bluish - buring oil. White - burning coolant. When you smell the gas, it is inside or outside the minivan? Back of the car or near the front?

Yes, the 1971 headers should work well on any head for a Gen 1 (pre-LT-1) Chevy small block. Header leaks are a common problem with all headers mating to all heads on any engine. The solution is to make sure that the headers that you buy are of a thick enough guage steel (usually 16 guage or thicker is best; and thicknesses are greater the smaller the number, so 14 guage is thicker than 16 guage) and that the flange is also thick enough (usually around 3/8" or thicker.) The flange thickness should help prevent warpage leaks and the tube thickness should prevent weld and stress crack leaks. Weld leaks usually occur when the tubing is thin because it is harder to weld thinner metal (turn up the heat and the weld pierces the tube, turn it down and the weld is weak, so thicker metal equals better weld) and stress cracks occur when heating and cooling a metal repeatedly, as this hardens the metal and causes it to be less pliable and easier to crack/harder to bend. The other considerations are torque pattern of the header bolts (nuts if your head has header studs) and gasket material and prep work. The head itself may have to be machined if it is an older/used head to ensure the mating surface is flat. The header and head should be thoroughly cleaned before placing the gasket or gasket sealant and you should follow header manufacturer instructions for 1) whether you need sealant, 2) what thickness and material the gasket should be (whether the engine is supercharged in any way affects this as well,) and 3) what the torque pattern and tightening spec's are for your headers (there is a specific order you MUST follow for tightening header bolts/nuts and a specific torque to tighten them to; often tightening is done in stages where you must tighten each bolt/nut in a specified order/pattern to a certain torque, then you must repeat the pattern of tightening again, and sometimes yet again, tightening slightly more each time to exact torque specifications each time to prevent warping the header flange by over-tightening one spot on the flange at a time.) If you follow all of these instructions you SHOULD not have any header leaks. There is always the question of quality though so I make no guarantees, but the horsepower and torque gains from using headers over stock exhaust manifolds is undeniable! I hope this helps you!

Greyrat70