Saturn L-Series

Probably General Motors.

I've been wondering that myself. I'm having a problem with my door locks. I have the same problem with my 1999 Saturn SL2 model. It has electric locks with a remote keyless entry. I went to lock my doors as I was inside the car, driving, and all 4 locks seized up and began clicking. A day later, I can not use my remote entry thing nor can I unlock or lock my car from the inside. The alarm system prevents me from locking the door, but even if I did, the locks would still click and they'd all wind up unlocked before the day is over with. Even if I manually lock the doors from the inside, the locks start clicking and by the time I get where I'm going, they are all 4 unlocked and clicking away.

If you've gotten answer, please respond to Sacrificialclam@aim.com with "SaturnSL2" in the subject. I can't afford for Saturn to look at it. They'll charge me $95 for a service call only to tell me the problem is going to be expensive to fix. The guy at Saturn told me that you couldn't turn off the alarm system. I'm betting you can.

My 2000 Saturn does this sometimes and it has to do with the security system. If you hit the lock button with the trunk or a door open, the security system shuts the car down and it won't start for a few minutes. You can either wait or you can pull out the fuse and put it back in. It happened to me twice and now I'm just really careful. Not sure if this is your issue, but .

5 quarts

On the cars I've worked on, you don't have to adjust anything. Sometimes you have to rotate the actual TPS and then screw it in once it's resistance is where it should be... but I don't see why you would have to do anything to the throttle body itself.

Passlock sensor (Ignition housing) Or body control module fault

its in the owners manual but on average i would say once a year , or as required for example if it becomes contaminated with something.

The filter is below the cowel (the plastic cover with many little holes) right bellow the windshield, covering the space between engine compartment and the windshield.

You will need to partially loosen up the windshields bottom trim on one side(either driver or passenger) Then start pulling tho cowell off-it will just come out all...And there, in this little covered area, is the cabin filter and on passenger side also a rubber boot(cover) for PCM- this does not need to be touched! Oh! You will first need do disconnect the windshield wipers and unscrew the 2 larger plastic nut around the windshield shafts, which holds the cowel down.

Check related links below for drum brakes.

The blower motor is located under the windshield cowl. You will need to remove the wiper blades, the plastic cowl assembly. Careful with the cowl, they break easily. There is plastic cover to to the right of the cabin air filter. Under that cover you'll find the blower motor. Saturn tech here by the way.

The manufacturer recommends that you use 10W-30 weight oil. 10 W-40 weight oil can be used in high mileage engines.

In a box looks like 2 mountains with an arrow pointing down inbetween

Answer:

Your description is probably the low coolant indicator light. Even if the coolant isn't low, sometimes a sensor can give a false reading.

4 total. Two on the passenger side (upper and lower) and two on the driver's side, upper and lower. The "dog bone" type strut mount is the same for eithe side.

R15 195/65

has 7 screws holding it on 3 along the bottom 1 behind the mirror bezel, 1 behind the speaker grille and 2 behind the door handle (pry off with a screw driver...oops 8 remove the power lock button and there's one behind there too

It means its time to change your oil.After changing your oil.open your hood take the fuse block cover off you will see a red oil reset button push it all the way down and hold for about 5 sec

There are 6 stock locations for speakers in the Mk4/5 L200: In each door there is a grille for 5.5" or 6" drivers, and either side of the dash are grills for 3.5" drivers.

To access the front door speakers you need to remove the door card. The speakers are mounted on a plastic tube-type extension which fixes to the inner door skin. Remove the 4 mounting screws taking care that the old driver doesn't fall. Disconnect the two wires from the driver by separating the female spade attached to the wire, from the male spade attached to the driver, noting their orientation with respect to a "+" or red mark on the driver connectors. They can be quite stiff to remove so this is best done with a pair of pointed pliers gripping the cable connector just above the spade or by gently twisting a flat-bladed screwdriver to push the cable connector (female spade) off the driver connector (male spade). Reconnect the wires to your new 5.5" or 6" driver, observing orientation as above. Insert the new driver into the mounting hole. Check that the driver mounting holes line up with the holes in the plastic extension tube, before inserting the mounting screws removed earlier, with washers as necessary. Replace the door card and do the other side!

Accessing the back door speakers is similar to the above however rear speakers were optional, as were the mounting tubes and cables. A few telephone calls to breakers yards should find a pair of the tubes. Cables can be installed by carefully inserting a wire coat-hanger through the rubber cable gland between door and chassis, attaching the cable and pulling back the coat-hanger. the cable can then be pulled through the side pillars to the floor pan and routed under the carpets to the location of your amplifier.

Access to the front 3" grilles requires the removal of the lower dashboard panels and glovebox. Removing the two mounting screws will release the driver. Remove the two wires as above. These cables go back to the head unit connectors. Additional cables can be installed to the doors as above, for example to connect to crossovers mounted in the doors.

it is possible to install a sub-bass box behind the rear seats. Removing the centre armrest rear casing helps with the measurements and gives a little more space for bass box! Alternatively, use a large plastic bag part-filled with expanding foam to make a mould which can then be measured more easily, and used as a reference during construction of the box. Because space is limited, big drivers are out. However, a pair of shallow-mount 10" drivers can make it impossible to see through your rear-view mirror for the vibrations.

Depending on ambient temperature and which heater mode you have selected your A/C may be running which may in turn trigger the cooling fan. Also if the check engine light is on the fan will sometimes run because of the code set. One final possibility is the temp sensor may be reading incorrectly

No but I'm also looking for a front subframe for my L series theses cars are terrible for them apparently.

PLEASE WHERE IS THE LOCATION TO PUT IN TRANSMISSION FLUID IN A 94 SATURN CAR?

Look under the manifold tubes coming up, there you should see a long rectangular black box, this is your coil pack. Unbolt that and pull up on it and there you will see your plugs. Hope that helps

7mm hex socket for the front caliper and 10 mm hex for the bracket bolts. For the rear if you have disc it's 19mm for the caliper

The 1999 Saturn S-Series engine heats up the coolant, the thermostat valve opens and the coolant circulates between the radiator and the engine. Then the radiator fans turn on to cool it back down. The fans are also turned on when the air conditioner is turned on to aid in cooling the radiator and the air conditioner condensor.

As with any engine, there are multiple possibilities.
Many of the "L" series had the V6 engine, the comments below are for that engine so you'll need to clarify if yours has the 4 cylinder engine.
Valve cover gaskets are a good place to start if you're certain that it's the engine. Also check the crankshaft and camshaft seals.
If it looks like it might be coming from the FRONT of the engine (that's the end with the serpentine belt), make certain that you have it repaired before the timing belt is destroyed.
Also, check the pan gasket. The pans are alloy and don't typically leak, but anything is possible.
Check the oil drain plug and oil filter. If the filter was put in wrong or the drain plug 'O' ring has failed, you'll leak there.
If you're NOT certain that it's the engine, check the power steering pump and the rest of the power steering hydraulics.

CPS is located above the starter on the back side of the engine held in with a 10mm bolts.