Saturn S-Series

The red dip-stick under the hood.

The fuses for the wipers should be in the driver side engine compartment. the fuse box should be next to the intake. If you cant find the box;you can go to a local parts store and find a haynes book. it will have everthing you need for your saturn.

You surely cannot expect to get an answer? Repair WHAT on the engine? What is wrong with it?

You surely cannot expect to get an answer? Repair WHAT on the engine? What is wrong with it?

You certainly CAN weld an exhaust system, but generally you only need to use clamps to hold new pipes and mufflers together.

Welding provides a better connection, and prevents the slight leakage that sometimes results from clamped exhaust connections, but if you don't have a high quality wire feed welder, acetylene welding seems to work a little better for exhaust systems; the cheaper wire feed welders just don't do a good job.

Saturns use a 14mm hex socket to remove the caliper bolts, both front and rear ( for a rear disk brake option) always use anti seize on threads, but do not use anti seize on the bushings. use Sylglyde or some type of impurity free grease. Anti seize is made up of aluminum shavings, and will actually inhibit the proper movement of the caliper pins against the bushings. for more information please visit my Bio for a link to my saturn help site..... on the site you will find step by step images of how to change your brake pads.

there are two sensors, one is if you open the hood, follow the exhaust down, exhaust tubes are located in the front of the engine toward the front of the car, the sensor is just passed the manifold, there is a second under the car, in the center, about as far back as the shifter is, this is the secondary or down stream sensor, both can be removed with a 22mm or 7/8 wrench

The quad module is in the computer.....Most likely the problem is one of the sensors it controls....Most common is cooling fan relay or motor OR EGR solenoid, or Evap purge solenooid

ABS brakes will activate on random if the abs sensors are faulty or have formed a build up of debris on the magnetic head. removing the wheels and inspecting the abs sensors and cleaning them by hand may help in preventing the abs system to engage.

The canister purge solenoid draws gas fumes out of the charcoal canister

well its a lot of work pull the engines ans all

make shure they are in good working order

also what people dont do is pull the computers too you NEED the computer from each car

that must be swaped too

then its easy just get a chilton and follow directions the cars are the same size so the engine will fit.

Use a large sludge hammer along with PB blaster. Its rusted on im sure. Also make sure the parking brake is OFF

The radiator on a 1995 Saturn is flushed by draining the coolant, refilling the engine with water, and adding a flush. It is allowed to circulate and drain before refilling with coolant.

Hey Anil==It depends a lot on what kind of car and if it is 2 or 4 wheel drive. Just off hand if it doesn't do it all of the time , it could be a wheel bearing. GoodluckJoe

If its a 4 wheel drive i had this problem with my Bronco and it turned out to be the rear end and it needed replaced, one day it just stopped grinding and boom there was oil everywhere from the rear end. so if its 4 wheel drive have that checked asap to see whats going on a new rear end costs around $1000 most of the time that's with parts and labor. that's the worse case senario then again it could just be the wheel bearing.

I have a 92 SL2 (the DOHC dual cam). Standing at the front of the car with the hood up, facing towards the car, it will be on the front of the engine (closest to you), on the left, near the bottom. If you have A/C, then you will see that on the front left top very easily. The water pump is below that. Note the accessory drive belt runs the pump, so follow the belt.

http://thecommi.angelfire.com/index.html I have included a picture of the EGR valve on my website. scroll down and click on EGR valve. the valve is easy to replace. remove the wireing connector from the top, remove the two 10mm mounting bolts from its base. pull strait up and off. should take under 10 min to replace. http://thecommi.angelfire.com/index.html I have included a picture of the EGR valve on my website. scroll down and click on EGR valve. the valve is easy to replace. remove the wireing connector from the top, remove the two 10mm mounting bolts from its base. pull strait up and off. should take under 10 min to replace.

The fan must run,or the motor will overheat. My 95 sc1 was overheating. The fan was not comming on. So I ran test wires to the battery and the fan came on.Must be a bad relay somewhere.So I ran wires from the fan to a switch I installed on the dash.Anytime the temperature gets near halfway,I turn on the fan and it drops to a quartar. Hope this helps.

If the transmission is slipping or shifting badly it COULD be a sign of a valve body failure.

If the transmission will not engage reverse or any of the forward gears, it COULD be a sign of a valve body failure.

It will probably be best to remove the engine since you need to also remove the timing chain, and that means removing the dampener pulley and the front cover/oil pump.

The worst part of removing the engine, is remembering where everything goes when you put it all back together. Drain fluids, remove the radiator fan shroud, fan and radiator. Remove the transmission dust cover (under the vehicle, between the engine and transmission. If it's an automatic, disconnect the torque converter from the flex plate, then disconnect the bell-housing from the engine block. If it's a stick shift it might be easier to remove the entire engine/transmission as an assembly.

Remove the drivers side front wheel then remove the wheel well dust cover to get access to the serpentine belt tensioner. Remove the serpentine belt, lift the power steering pump to the side. Disconnect the exhaust line, fuel line, all electrical connections (make sure you know where they go so you can put them back), lift the AC compressor to the side.

Attach an engine lift to take the weight of the engine, then remove the motor mounts and lift the engine out.

Pull the dampener pulley, valve cover, front cover of the engine and loosen the timing chain sprockets, on the crankshaft and on the camshafts(2 on the SL2), but don't remove the chain yet. Retract the hydraulic chain tensioner piston assembly and hold it in place using a small drill bit or a piece of clean wire through the hole. Note that there is a release lever that allows the tensioner to be retracted. Remove the timing chain tensioner rails ONLY AFTER you have retracted the chain tensioner piston assembly.

Remove the timing chain and tensioner rails.

If you haven't done so already, remove the intake and exhaust manifolds as well as the EGR valve. Once the timing chain has been removed you can remove the head. Remove the 10 head bolts and the head should lift out, although the gasket may stick a little since it's been there for over 14 years. DON'T pry it off, just work with it until it's free.

Take the head to a qualified machine shop and have the head resurfaced. It would be a good idea to have the valves and guides done at the same time.

Get the torque sequence and torque wrench values from the machine shop when you pick up the head.

Reassemble the engine in the reverse order, using new gaskets and new timing chain and sprockets.

Next time, don't let the engine overheat and the head gasket should never fail.

To diagnose a noisy pulley, remove the serpentine belt and turn all pulley's by hand. Try to notice which of the pulleys make a grinding sound or feels loose. Even an alternator bearing can sound like just another bad pulley bearing, so don't assume that the alternator is okay.

A bad bearing often feels like there are little grains of sand inside when you turn it manually, but sometimes it's difficult to detect the problem if you haven't had the experience.

Note, before you remove the serpentine belt, make certain that you have some kind of drawing or a good mental image of the routing so that you can put it back.

on my 94 it was near the oil filter and it was a canister type like your oil filter

There are many factors to consider when deciding to purchase a used vehicle.

The Saturn's were well built, and if properly maintained can easily be considered a reliable vehicle well past 200,000 miles.

But like any vehicle, if not properly maintained, it could be worn out at 94,000 miles.

Bad wheel bearing? Most likely a loose frt end component, Or the hub could be bent due to an impact.

This is refering to the air pump that connects to the exhuast manifold. Check the connectors to be sure the air pump is turning on at cold start up. The generic code is P0410. That is from a Cen-Tech OBD ll Code reader.

Saturn recommends 5W30. But I put 10W30 in my 2002 Saturn SL2 now that it has higher mileage, and it runs like a gem. I use Quaker State High Mileage (with Slick 50) to give it additional lubrication.