Subaru Outback

Whoever wrote that you need to buy an entirely new headlight assmebely was not very well informed, nor very clever as it is very, very easy.

1) Open the hood.

2) Unplug the wire going to the back of the heald light.

3) Remove the rubber housing covering the light build, use a screwdriver to pry it.

4) There is a little spring (vshaped that starggels around the back of the bulb) that hold the bulb in place, squeeze both sides of that spring and pull it forward. (The bottom part of that spring is attahced, it'll just swing down and out of the way.)

5) Pull out the old bulb.

6) Put the new build in, flip the spring back in place, replace the rubber piece, conncect the wire and drive happily and safley!

Changing spark plugs on a Subaru is no different from changing spark plugs on any other car. You may have to remove parts of the air induction system to make access easier. Be sure to check the gap on the new ones and use anti-seize on the threads.

Oil burning is normally caused by worn rings. A compression test will verify if that is the case. As long as you keep the oil level at the full mark you can keep driving the car.It really depends on how much oil it is burning if you need to have it repaired immediately. If it is burning enough oil that you can see blue smoke out the exhaust it will destroy the catalytic converter and O2 sensor over time.Are you sure you do not have an oil leak?

See "Front Fog Light" on page 52 in chapter 11 "Maintenance and Service" of your "OWNER'S MANUAL".....

Transfer case is lubricated by the transmission fluid.

The problem is often that the handle is sticking and has not returned to the fully "down" position, i.e. it is already halfway "up" and therefore won't pull "up" on the locking mechanism.

The solution on my Outback is to push the handle down, and I can usually feel it engage. Then just pull up and the door opens.

Many Outback (and Legacy and Forester) owners lube the handle occasionally. So far I have always had success just pushing it down so I haven't bothered to lube it. If it gets so stuck that it won't push back down, then I'll lube it with wd-40 or something else.

My first thought is a plugged catalytic converter. However, if you mean the same thing as I would when you say "lugs", this would occur any time you press down hard on the throttle. You don't mention any kind of misfire or check engine light and those would be critical clues.

I have seen prices from a couple hundred each to over a thousand. The only answer that has any meaning comes from the person willing to do the job.

This is a very straightforward operation, same as any other car. Disconnect battery, remove shrouding, unbolt the alternator, bot new alternator on, tighten belts, and reconnect the battery. The alternator is easily accessible.

This condition sounds like the transmission locking solenoid is bad. Condition is similar to having a frozen clutch except this is an automatic. To test, unplug the the wire connector to the solenoid on the transmission. If the problem clears up, then the solenoid is bad and not the tranny. You can drive it with the solenoid unpluged with only a minor impact to fuel economy at higher speeds (above 40 mph).

See "Rear Window Wiper and Washer Switch" on page 20 in chapter 3 "Instruments and Controls" of your "OWNER'S MANUAL".....

It is under the carpet on the passenger front seat on US models. You remove any clips holding the front of the carpet in place and peel it back. From there on it is unscrewing things until you get it out. Plug and play, that is there are no adjustments or settings, you just put the new one in and it sets itself up.

I want to know the wiring color codes of the Toyota corolla 2006 car radio.

The 2003 Subaru Outback PCV valve is located on the air cleaner housing. The PCV valve will be on the back of the housing.

you can use the c clamp just tighten it slowly

I iT is a trouble code P1798 , some say it's a faulty temparature coolant sensor , another say 1 gear break, but the tramsmission works good , but I notice that when the car warm up and you turn the engine off and re start it works normal , so I want to believe it's the temparature coolant sensor , will change it tomorrow .

Held down by two screws right on top of the Throttle Body.

Chances are you also have a "check engine" light. This is an effort by Subaru to nudge you into getting the problem diagnosed and repaired. I just bought my third Subaru, a 2007 Outback and just discovered this feature."

All of my Subarus have spent more time with the light on than with it off and I find losing the cruise control to be terribly inconvenient. Would be different if the same problems did not keep coming back again and again. Good luck! --Ken

Depending on the year of the car, oxygen sensors will generally last anywhere from 30,000, 60,000, to 100,000 miles. Even though they may still function and won't trigger the "check engine" light, they do loser performance and it's best to change them. Try to find the make of the sensor and the year it was installed. Generally in late 90s-present vehicles, the sensors are heated and will last 100k. Early '90s vehicles to late '90s are about 60k, and early-mid '80s thru. early '90s are about 30k. MY 1996 HONDA ACCORD check engine light came on at 220,000 MILES for its original OXYGEN SENSOR to be replaced!

I've change plugs in quite a few different Subaru 4 cylinder motors (H4) this is the first 6 cylinder (H6) I've done. While not super hard it is pretty tedious and at times frustrating. There isn't a lot of room to work so having the right tools is a must. Small hands helps too and a lot of patience. This was done on an 2002 LL Bean Outback. I suspect the VDC will be the same.

Tools you'll need:

10mm socket or ratchet - to remove motor cover, front part of intake and wire stay rail on drivers side of motor (LHD)

12mm socket and long extension - to remove airbox bolts, socket removes coil pack bolts too.

12mm open end - sometimes getting at the coil pack requires an open end due to tight quarters.

Flat blade screwdriver - to remove hose clamps that fasten on intake hose to air box. It's also used to separate the extension from the socket.

Flex head ratchet - This helps a lot getting a better swing instead of a lot of little clicks removing the spark plugs.

12mm socket and ratchet 1/4" drive - The back plugs by the fire wall have very little room to remove the coil pack. I needed a small or rather thin headed ratchet to fit in there. I had to use a 1/4" drive. Try with your 3/8" drive it may be narrow enough mine wasn't

5/8" spark plug socket - to remove spark plugs, note remove the rubber cushion insert inside the socket. If you don't you will have a heck of a time getting the socket off the spark plug after you install it. It's in there deep an it's tough to grab.

3" extension for socket - For removing the spark plugs this is a must any bigger or smaller will not work

Retrieval Magnet - I have one on the end of a telescopic want and used it many times during this procedure. From getting tools I dropped under the car to getting the spark plug out of the hole.

Spark plug gap measuring tool - a flat blade is best for new plugs not the round type - To verify spark plug gap of 1.0 - 1.1mm or 0.039 - 0.043 inch. The plugs come pre-gapped but it does not hurt to double check them.

Drop light - to see better of course

Optional:

Anti seize - I use this on the spark plug threads

Dilectric grease - I put a dab on the top of the spark plug where the coil packs wire touches the plug

Do the spark plug change on a stone cold, sitting overnight, motor. With a warm or hot motor you risk stripping something and getting a nasty burn too.

First start by using the handy dandy but little known feature all Subaru's posses. Open the hood all the way up.

First start by removing the front part of the intake I like to call the Platypus. It's held in place by 2 - 10mm bolts. After you remove them the duct will just unhook from the back. Then remove the airbox rubber hose by undoing a hose clamp on the top of the airbox with a screwdriver. Take the top of the airbox off by undoing the two clamshell clips and removing it. Now with a long extension remove the two 12mm bolts holding the bottom half of the airbox to the fender. A long extension or a few together are needed to reach the bolts. For the bolt towards the firewall, the magnet helps get the bolt out after it is loose. Remove the whole bottom half by finagling it out of the fender area.

Next on the other side remove the washer bottle (2 - 10mm bolts), hoses and pump harness. When you unplug the washer hoses fluid will come rushing out. So be prepared to turn it on it's side to prevent losing all the fluid. Also removed the battery.

To remove the battery (wear gloves and goggles when dealing with a battery to be safe) always undo the negative first when removing the battery, then the positive. This reduces the risk of a tool hitting something and arching. When re-installing it do the opposite, positive terminal then the negative.

Do one plug at a time, removing the coil pack and then remove and replace the plug and coil pack.

Getting the coil pack off of the spark plug isn't all that hard for the two on each side in the front of the motor. It's close but you can get a 12mm socket on them. They aren't in there too tight and the bolt will stay in the coil pack and not drop out which is nice. The trick is to get the coil pack out of the way enough to get to the spark plug. I pushed the coil pack down below the spark plug opening for all but the last one I will get to later. For the rear coil pack it's a little trickier. The motor bay seems to taper back and gets closer towards the firewall. My flex head socket was too large and I had to use a 1/4" drive ratchet setup with the 12mm socket to get that coil pack off. Same thing on both rear coil packs. It can be tedious at times because you can only get a few clicks of the ratchet to move the bolt.

Once you have the coil pack out and moved out of the way now you need to get the plug out. As I mentioned earlier remove the inner cushion from the spark plut socket if there is one in there. To get the plug out, I slipped in the Spark Plug socket first, then the 3" extension. This can be tricky because you need to feel that you are getting the extension in the socket end, you can't really see what you are doing. And then put the flex ratchet on the extension. When the spark plug is loose (or you think it is) you will now have to remove the ratchet from the end of the extension. It sounds easy but there is little room pull it off. So I used a long flat blade screw driver to first separate the ratchet from the extension then the extension from the socket. The spark plug will most likely be sitting in the hole where you can't see it. You can use your magnet to get it or possibly reach it with your fingers.

Now you are ready to install the new plug. Be sure you compare the old and new plug to be sure you got the right ones, and double check the gap. I like to put never seize on the threads and some dialectic grease on the top. That's up to you. Putting the plug in is similar to getting the tools in to remove it. Now you will have the plug in the socket. Slide the socket/plug in the spark plug hole. Put the extension on the socket and (this is very important) start the plug in the threads by hand, gently turning the extension to seat the plug all the way to the crush washer gasket. You do not want to cross thread the plug that would be a very bad thing. The good news is Subaru has seemed to make it easy to get the plug started properly.

The rear plug on the drivers side (LHD) was a bit of a bugger and necessitated the invention of new and different swear words. To give more room moving the coil pack around to get a the plug I had to remove a metal guard/rail that held the harness to the coil pack in place. It's held in place with two 10mm bolts and at one end is a plug you need to undo from the harness to move it aside. Here I used the 1/4" drive ratchet to get to the coil packs 12mm bolt too, just like the other sides back plug.

Well that's about the size of it, now replace all the bits you removed to get at the plugs and you are done. Well other than resetting your radio stations and clocks time

See "Programming the Transmitters" on page 10 in chapter 2 "Keys and Doors" of your "OWNER'S MANUAL".....

Recently had the pump changed on my 2007. Nothing difficult here. If you need step-by-step instructions I recommend purchasing a Subaru service manual on CD or .pdf format from one of the sellers on eBay. Can be had for less than $10 and is invaluable if you are planning on doing projects of this kind.

Where is the bank2 sensor 1 located on a 2001 subaru outback 3.0

Check Engine light comes on due to a wide range of possible problems, often automatically disabling the cruise control, leaving it blinking. The problems can range from sensor issues (MAF, Oxygen Sensors, Etc.) to a loose gas cap, to condensation, to a loose connector on a sensor, perhaps even a dying battery, a flaky alternator or a faulty battery terminal connection. It is a catch-all problem indicator. If you are lucky, you can simply reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a minute, and the Check Engine light will be gone and cruise control will work. If the error persists, you need to get the error code (if you do not have a code reader or accesspoint, stop by Autozone or somewhere similar and get them to read it for you) see what the error is, and fix the problem. Simple? Hopefully it's not something more troublesome, bad injector, etc.

There is no trick to this and no meaningful instruction. Mufflers on a 2000 Outback are essentially the same as every vehicle muffler made since they have been building cars. It is a tough job if you don't have right the tools and will to deal with parts that are rusted in place.

Having done this job more than once my recommendation is to find a local muffler shop and have them do it. It won't cost much more than doing it yourself. Check on parts cost then call the muffler shop and see how they compare.