Subaru Outback

The curb weight of the 2011 Subaru Outback is 3386 lbs..

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Water pump and timing belt should be replaced at the same time since the labor is essentially the same. Both need to be replaced at 10 years or 100,000 miles. In my opinion it is not a job for a first timer since it involves removing everything at the front of the engine.

If you want to give it a go, purchase a Subaru service manual available from eBay sellers for around $10. You will then have detailed instructions to decide whether you have the skill and tools to do the job.

your thermostat may have gone bad and is stuck in the closed position when the car reaches operating temp. check to see if the fans click on, if not carefully squeeze (it will be hot!) the large radiator hose (aka water inlet hose) if it squeezes easily with no resistance the coolant is not circulating properly and your thermostat needs replaced. if it seems solid but the fans are not running the switch on the fans will need replaced and/or the fans themselves.

if the fans are running and water is circulating you may have build up in the in the cooling system and need to flush the radiator

Consult your owner's manual. There are quite a few fuses in two fuse blocks, passenger and engine compartments and to describe the location of every fuse would be a large task and reading it in text would probably not be something that would benefit you. If you would like to ask a more specific question you should include the model year of your Impreza.

no, its a belt, check your owners manual for the mileage interval it will need to be changed at

No, it does not.

1995-1999: 15.9 us gals (60 liters); 2000-2009: 16.9 us gals (64 liters); 2010+: 18.5 us gals (70 liters).....

plugged fuel filter is the cheap and easy fix. the expensive and difficult answer is the catalytic converter is shot. with my luck, it's the cat.

They are different gear ratios. Outback turns 3100 @ 65 while the Forester turns about 2700. I'm currently running this combo and have about 4-5k on it expecting viscous coupling to go when I need it the least, then I go nowhere and I'm on as unmaintained road in the Colorado Rocky's so I'm looking for the correct answer as well.

I would need to know which engine is in my 2011 Subaru Outback to answer this question. Oil capacity information is in my owner's manual.

The 2010 Subaru Outback has a 6-speed manual.

The 2010 Subaru Outback has a 8 ft. 11.9 in. (107.9 in.) wheel base.

you can find the keyless entry code for the keypad on the right hand trunck support. it should be a little white sticker with black print and a five digit code.

Normal it means your leaking antifreeze from somewhere. Check your levels and look on the ground, some times the vent system can pull in the smell. Check the hoses. Also it can be a leak in the heater core. If so it can be exspensive to replace, mostly because the whole dash normally needs to come out to get to it.

Eleanor Siegler.

Check your turn signal stalk switch.

In some cars, German ones in particular, this is an intentional safety feature. If the turn signal is not centered the parking lights stay on so it is more easily seen at night if the car is parked on the side of a narrow street.

Pistons lacking in skirts. If it continues after the engine is warmed up then you have something more severe going on.

between 5.9 and 6.3

The passenger side wiper blade size varies depending on whether its a base model, sport model or limited model. The driver's side and rear is the same for all models. See sources and related links below for more information.

The 2013 Subaru Outback runs on regular unleaded.

don't even try to cut them you need a special wire harness to change out the radio cause its in the trunk hard to do

I have been using Mobil 1 in my 2002 Outback for the last 50,000+ miles. The first 15,000 or so I used a good conventional oil to break in the engine. I have not experienced any oil leaks or engine problems and I beat on my car mercilessly. I used to work in an oil laboratory in the US Navy and synthetic oil beats conventional in many ways. First of all it can run at much higher temps without burning and producing sludge. It has better coating and penetrating properties. It will also have a better thermal operating range as far as viscosity is concerned. I change my oil every 7000 miles and the oil still coats the sides of the container like it was new with a nice even layer. So I say go ahead and use Mobil 1 but some other oils that claim to be synthetic technically may not be. Another great oil is called Royal Purple that a friend of mine used in his STI. I would never go 7000 miles with a conventional oil though especially if the car is turbocharged.

From the manual it says to do them from 70-90 in lb. when i did it today we broke the outside bearing cover bolt at about 50 or 60 in lb. It is smaller than the rest and might have a different spec not listed in the manual so be careful when doing those outer ones

There is a single plastic fastener that holds the mud shield in place below the bumper. Remove the fasterner by pushing it out of the expansion clip then pull the mud shield down out of the way. The fog light can be unplugged and the two bolts removed which will allow you to pull the entire assembly out the front of the bumper. The little fasterner that holds the shield in place looks like a screw but it isn't. Just punch it out from behind and then snap it back in place when you're finished. Once the assembly is out it's pretty simple to unscrew the light and replace the H3 bulb.