Volvo 740

Yes. The 740 and 940 are very similar and share many common parts.

where is the diagonistic tester located on a 1991volvo740 It is located on the drivers side of the car under the hood to the front of the hood hinge. This system is not OBD2 so the codes have to be read either manually or by a scan tool with a 6 prong connector.

max 18-23 psi

Unscrew the plastic panel inside the trunk and the bulb housing unlocks when you turn it 1/3rd turn counterclockwise

The "PCV" valve is actually called the "flametrap". Its located on the driver's side just behind the intake assembly. If you go to www.brickboard.com they have a great FAQ just for the 700 series Volvos.

You need to remove the shift console, it's a hassle. I sugggest you replace it with an LED it's a direct plug in replacment (available from Bosch or Narva) it will save you ever doing it again! Take out ashtray as if to access fuses, remove cig. lighter surrond trim piece......unscrew the 1 screw [ on l.h.s. ] and slide out stereo equalizer [N.B. - this is how you access relays, if you ever need to....the fuses + relay board block slides out, after release of plastic retainer clip on l.h.s. of fuse/relay block. Then unscrew (2) Phillips head screws by going through little brush on shifter,..one at each end [ one near "P", 1 near "1" ] .....Now lift out cover.....changing bulb is now obvious. You can also easily change bulb for cig. lighter/ashtray lamp before reversing steps. Seriously consider replacement of ALL of these pesky little lamps [ one at a time, on a as you need to, basis ] with LED's......that way your Volvo's little warning/advisory/courtesy/illumination lights will ALL work all the time, when they're supposed to...... kudos to the way this was answered leds are the way to go but id replace them all at once for sure and then no problems ... (at least with these bulbs!)

4 quarts. always make sure to "read" the oil dipstick.

Yes the engine will fit as well as the oringinal engine since they are block wise the same engine. Wireing how ever is a bit different as well as a few other items are located in different places. Try checking out this link for some very helpfull hints. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=52466 Good luck with the upgrade. You are going to have 2 holes in the turbo block that the non-turbo didn't have. The oil feed line hole for the turbo and the oil return pipe hole for the turbo! The blocks are DIFFERENT

I know its not a flywheel but I just replaced the rear main seal on my automatic 1990 240 DL and I did not index the flexplate, everything runs just fine after the work was done.

Hope it helps.

Volvo's fuel door hinge is secured to the body by four expanding rivets allowing blind installation and removal (that is to say, without requiring access to the inside of the quarter panel.) Remove the old hinge by punching out the four rivet expander pins with a long, slender punch. (The approximately 1/8" expander pins aren't easy to see as they've been driven flush with the crescent-shaped hinge. The outside two are centered about 1/4" from each end of the hinge, with two more each about 1-1/4" inboard of those, centered in the spring holders.) DANGER--DON'T use an electric drill to drill out the pins as the close proximity to the fuel filler makes this an EXTREMELY DANGEROUS risk!!! Once the old hinge is removed, carefully assemble the hinge, door, and spring BEFORE securing to the car body. Clean the area of the fuel filler and remedy any rust. With the fuel door open on the hinge, line up the hinge's rivets with their respective holes and press the hinge in place with the rivet gaskets bottomed out on the sheet metal. While a helper holds the fuel door-hinge-spring assembly firmly in place, use a 1/4" drift and hammer to carefully sink the four rivet expanders flush to the hinge. Test the security of the rivets and carefully open and close the door to check alignment and flush fit of the door to the body.

go to www.the12volt.com

Try the link below:

Fuel pump relay

or

Knock sensor if stall after maybe 2 miles

My sources say it is in a "basket" (fixed with three bolts) on the left side under the car, next to the fuel pump.

There is a 13 mm nut that locks the pump in place. It will be near where the pulley. After is it is loosened there should be a 10 mm bolt that is used to move the pump in and out to adjust the tension. If you can't locate it check the other accessories to see what it should look like. I have had them break off so if you don't see the end of the bolt sticking out where you can get a wrench on it easily that could be the problem. Normally adjusting belt tension is pretty easy with this system.

Under the radio. Behind the ash tray.

Remove the ash tray, remove a plastic enclosure, and you will see the fuses

an electrical problem like a brake light or something being out

check airflow meter

Reverse light switch failure

IPD USA offers a few do-it-yourself things to save you some $$. The actual solenoid is a bit costly ($150), but a few things to try may be the OD relay, OD switch, or wiring. if you don't want to ever fiddle with it again, they also offer an OD solenoid bypass plate ($40). you wouldn't be able to shift out of OD, but how often do you really do that.

Try FCP Groton

It is not an error code, it is a diagnostic code. This is part of the Diagnostic Test Mode for the System Sensor Signal Test TPS OK in idle position (when throttle is moved) 3-3-2 Itm #3 in the following link http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/Engine-Codes1.html

right side brake light is out, left works fine and of course the fuse is good, what is the most common problem?

There is a low pressure fuel pump in the gas tank, and a high pressure in-line fuel pump located on the under-carriage beneath the drivers seat

4th gear

If the engine cranks but will not start it could be a spark related or fuel related issue you need to check if you have proper spark from your ignition system. pull off a spak plug wire and crank the engine see if it is sparking if it is then the spark should be jump a large gap and be a bright blue in color not orange if it is a orange spark it is not hot enough to ignite the fuel . if spark is ok next check fuel pressure there should be a shrader valve on your fuel line going to to the fuel rail or on the fuel rail there will be a plastic cap on it remove the plastic cap and push down the shrader valve with a pen if no fuel comes out you probibly have a fuel issue weather it is a pump or relay will need further diagnosis . hope this information helps ASB