VW Beetle Type 1

You can't remove just the inside handle. The handle is part of the door panel.

The point gap for all air cooled VW engines is .016" (inch).

first torque step is 84in-lbs...second torque step is 18 if you have small m8 studs or 23 for big m10 studs

He was the one who ordered Dr. Porsche to create a car for the masses - a "people's car" or "volkswagen." He gave a bunch of demands - must hold two adults and three children, must burn no more than 7 litres fuel per 100 km traveled, must go 100 km/hr over long distances...and it must be available to members of the Nazi leisure organization "Strength through Joy" or "Kraft durch Freude" on a savings plan in which if you had 990 Reichsmarks' worth of savings stamps in a savings book you would receive the car. Unfortunately, no one was ever able to save up a thousand Marks and the factory that would make the car was diverted to making military vehicles. After the war, the new Volkswagen company gave people who had "KdF-Sparbuche" a discount on the purchase of Volkswagens...right after the British army removed the unexploded bomb that had lodged itself between two critical and irreplaceable machines in the Volkswagen factory.

I think it is somewhere around 50 horsepower, if I'm not mistaken.

on the bottom of the engine there is a round plate with like 8 little bolts around the rim and 1 big one in the middle. to drain the oil remove the big one. to replace the oil screen (Filter) remove the small ones after you've drained the oil. Put the screen and the plate back on and put the big oil plug bolt back in. Then fill the engine with oil. I think it takes 2.5 quarts but I'm not positive about that. You put the oil in next to the generator, you can't miss it. It's a very easy job. about 30 minutes.

This is a very good description. I'm going to add a few things... Everyone knows Volkswagens leak oil, right? (The rumor, when these cars were still being made, was that if Volkswagen accidentally made a car that didn't leak, they took it to a special room and drilled holes in the bottom of it.) If you want yours to not leak oil, at least around the oil strainer cover, put the car on jackstands and crawl under with a pair of vise-grips. Remove the cheesy little acorn nuts and throw them away, then unscrew the studs they were on from your engine case. Go to Home Depot with one of the studs and buy six stainless-steel metric bolts--IIRC the size you want is 6mm x anything between 20mm and 30mm. They have a little measurer sitting there you can check the stud size and thread pitch, but I bought the ones I used in my engine from there. Also get six split lockwashers. If you have a Bus that's 1972 or newer or any vintage of 411, be sure to use only 20mm bolts--anything longer and you risk hitting the camshaft. Volkswagen changed the oil strainer cover plate in 1974. They found out people were not cleaning the oil strainer during oil changes (mainly because the number-one cause of oil leaks is removing then replacing the notoriously-easy-to-strip acorn nuts), so they removed the drain plug. Now, the only way to get the oil out of the car is to remove the oil strainer, and the theory was that as long as you had it out anyway, you'd throw it in solvent for a few minutes. You've figured out the problem with this bright idea, of course: you will get DRENCHED in oil every time you change it. This is a historical note and not one of significance because the first thing the dealer's tech did when the car came in for its first oil change was to throw the new-model strainer cover in the trash and replace it with an old-model cover. What's NOT a historical note is the need to clean the strainer. You gotta do it, folks. Take the cover off, pull the strainer out and clean it in solvent. And please note: even though, right now, gasoline is cheaper than mineral spirits, I beg of you to NOT try to save money by washing parts in gas. It's dangerous for you, the environment, and (if you don't get it all out of the strainer) your car. Please wash this in mineral spirits. Oil capacity is 2500ml. Two and a half quarts is close enough.

under the rear seat behind the top of the battery you will see a hplder for the jack.

Depending on your temperature, 10-30w. If the temp regularly gets below zero (F), then switch to 5-30w during colder months.

Unfortunately, at this point the only place you will be able to find the factory OEM type of spring is from the dealer (maybe), or from an auto salvage yard.

When removing the old springs it is usually easier and cheaper to take the whole hinge and spring as an assembly.

HOWEVER...

If you aren't fixated on having the original type springs on your hood hinge (ie; restoration) you can do as I did and use gas struts.

These are available at most auto stores as replacement items for later model vehicles.

The trick is finding the correct length and strength

The length is easy, as all you need to do is measure from the eye hole on each end of the spring.

You would rather the length be 1/4" too long, than 3/4" too short, but not more than 1/4" or the preload will be too great, and bend the hood as you try to close it.

Which brings you to the second tricky part.

Most of the time the strut will be set for the heavier hood or hatchback weight. Bear this in mind when searching for the replacement. Usually this will not be a problem, but you need to be aware of it. I did find a set that was too strong and had to get another of the same length that was "loaded" for a lighter weight.

I can't tell which to use for you application because of the different manufacturers and I was replacing them on a '66 bug, which I was (am) customizing, and I am using a fiberglass hood.

When installing the new struts you will merely have to drill and remove the upper rivet/pin and unclip the lower pin.

Use quality hardware and it's a straight forward installation.

It looks pretty sharp too..

If you mean the car stumbles and dies then you need a tune up. If you mean the car dies "instantly" the Reverse light wire might be interfering with the carburetor shut off solenoid. The Solenoid is also wired to the coil with the reverse light. You should be able to hear a "click" on the carb when you turn the key on and off. With the key on, have some one put the car in reverse and see if you can hear the solenoid click off. Jay, you're really close but not quite. The problem is the reverse-light circuit's shorting to the frame. Maybe one of the wires has the insulation rubbed off and it's touching the frame. When you put the car in reverse, the switch closes, the power from the coil goes to ground and the car dies. The root cause is Volkswagen is running WAY too many things off the side of the coil.

This is kinda long, but if I was going to rebuild a Bug engine, here's what I'd do: First, pull the engine out of the car and strip off the intake, exhaust, and sheetmetal. Drain the gas out of the carburetor. Next, make three areas in your workspace, which you've cleaned well. Call them the "clean," "rebuild" and "replace" piles. Anything in the "clean" pile, you just clean and put back in the engine. Everything in the "rebuild" pile goes to the machinist, and the "replace" pile is self-explanatory. The heat exchangers are the boxes attached to the heads. These are your heating system, and if they leak exhaust they can kill you quick. Inspect them very closely, and if they look even the least bit questionable, put them in the Replace pile. If they're okay, put them in the Clean pile. Put all the stuff you stripped off in the first step in the Clean pile, except for the alternator, distributor and carb. They go in the Rebuild pile. Take the heads off and put them in the Rebuild pile. Strip the engine down. Put the connecting rods, the flywheel, the crank, the cam and the case in the Rebuild pile. Put the distributor pinion, the rockers and valve covers, the head studs, the pushrods, the oil strainer and the crank pulley in the Clean pile. Put everything else in the Replace pile...and think hard about putting the case there too. All the nuts and bolts should go in the Replace pile, but most people put them in the Clean pile. Box up all the stuff in the Rebuild pile and haul it to a machinist that does VW work and that has a Rottler line-boring machine if you're doing the case. Do NOT get your engine line-bored by a guy that uses a portable line bore. There are perfectly good reasons to use a portable line bore--in-frame overhauls of big diesels are those reasons. The alternator goes to an auto rebuild shop. The distributor needs new points, condenser, rotor and cap...or live it up and put a Pertronix Ignitor in. Use this opportunity to clean the items in the Clean pile and purchase the items in the Replace pile. You will also need at least one tube of assembly lubricant (Lubriplate is supreme), a tube of Yamabond 5 to glue the case back together, a clutch, a carb rebuild kit, a gasket set, a case of oil and a main seal--you don't get one in the gasket sets, and I don't know why. Make sure you have a good torque wrench--this is critical. Also get a new gland nut no matter what yours looks like. This holds the flywheel on. It's under a lot of torque and it has ultra-fine threads. You can get a racing gland nut if you like; it's made from 4340 Chromoly steel and takes a lot more torque. It also takes a lot larger wrench to install it--1-1/2" versus 36mm. When you pick up your rebuilt stuff, buy your main, rod and cam bearings from the machinist. He knows what undersize he used, and it's professional courtesy to do it that way. You will probably also save money--the last time I bought bearings from a non-machinist I paid about twice what I did when I bought them from a machinist. Go home and use your VW service manual to tell you how to put the engine back together. Reinstall the engine and, if you did everything right, you'll be a happy person.

You should buy a new VW Beetle (Mexican 1977-1998) but you should not buy a VW New Beetle. They are the most difficult cars to work on, but they are very cute!!

Not without changing more parts than you want to think about.

The 1967 transmission was "swingaxle."

The 1971 chassis was made for "independent rear suspension" transmissions.

You can put anything from 1969 on in your 71, because 1969 was the first year of IRS.

Ordinarily, you do not adjust the pushrod length - it's factory-set. The first thing most folks do when they discover it's adjustable is to make it too long (which makes the brakes SEEM better) ...problem is that doesn't allow the compensating ports in the master cylinder to be uncovered when the pedal's up, so as the fluid heats under use it can't escape to the reservoir and the brakes start to lock up after a few minutes' driving.

First, ensure that the pedal stop on the floorboard is set to allow the pedal to come back ~200mm (about 8") from the firewall. If the pedal's set too low there won't be sufficient travel to allow a single brake circuit to function in the event of failure of the other. Check for freeplay at the pedal - it should be ~6mm (about ¼") which equates to about 1mm freeplay at the pushrod. A little less is acceptable, provided there is SOME perceptible freepla at the pushrod.

The gross weight of the 2014 Volkswagen Beetle is 3990 lbs..

The hood is in the back, with the engine. To change a hood hinge, you just unbolt the old one and bolt in a new one.

The trunk lid hinge is replaced the same way, but you need someone to hold up the trunk lid while you're doing it so you don't ruin the trunk lid (which you can NOT get new--they broke the stamping die many years ago) or the hinge on the other side.

Check the SAMBA site, but there was more than one color, the Beetle wasn't a Model T.

The door panels are held in place by clips--you will probably have to buy them seperately from your panel. If you get a panel, it will most likely come with instructions.

i believe it is 1-4-3-2

Since both cars are swing axle, the transmissions will interchange.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/type1.php

Get John Muirs -"How to keep your Volkswagen alive, A manual for the Compleat Idiot" and Bentleys "workshop manual". They have a huge amount of info, John Muir is a "real world" work-book and the Bently Manual is the VW "Official Workshop Manual" . I'm not sure as the rears are the ones you'll have a problem with as the axle shaft that the drum is bolted to is splined. Which means the brake drum is splined also. Your drum is used to drive your wheels. I believe they have different splines for early and late model beetles and I don't know which.

It is more than likely a 68' engine. My own 68 has an "H" engine code.

1600cc from Model Year 1971 - www.lennysvw.com