VW Beetle Type 1

which part? every type of nut or bolt is different

"R" on the fuel gage means "Reserve".

1938 for the Volkswagon Beetle.

the wireing is far too much to explain and it all depends on what you are looking for try this book it has a great picture ref. and step by step instructions ( how to keep you volkswagen alive by john muir) probably the best book i have ever found to help with just about any bug problem

Red (16Amp) and white (8Amp) in order from left to right R-W-W-W-R-W-W-W-W-W the fuses in a 1970 vw beetle are a "bullet" type ceramic open fuse. meaning that no glass or vaccume tube is used. although very un-efficient it is a simple cheap design using a one piece metal connector carries the current through the fuse in the open air, and going from the top to the bottom of the fuse is caps both ends of the ceramic "bullet" to get a good connection, comes in all amperage sizes and colors

The "transmission" and the "transaxle" are the same thing.

I don't think you can get them all out at the same time. The back of the transmission is held in with two huge bolts that you have to pull the engine to get to.

the tdc is a slight notch on the crank pulley you should have two other notches toward pass. side of car on the backside of the pulley all along the circumference of it . the first notch should be 5deg the second 7.5 deg you may have to clean the grime off the pulley two find them once found use a white or yellow crayon or paint to mark them for easier location when timing.

I could not find it either :)

Its under the front grill :-) just remove the grill (two screw on top as I remember and then you have to just pull it off) and rest is VERY VERY simple :-)

It's in three places:

on a plate at the bottom of the windshield

on a plate behind the spare tire in the trunk

stamped into the transmission tunnel under the back seat

I have some charts showing the meaning of the number and letter sequence in old VW vin numbers. All depends on how old the owner is as to whether i can help with decoding for you. If you want to let me have the vin I'll see if i can help.Dave.

.089 I'm pretty sure

The type I Beetle engine was used in the VW bus (with slight mods) from 1950 to 1971. In 1972, the bus received the new type IV engine, although certain counrties continued to use the type I Beetle motor.

So yes. Check your flywheel to ensure it is the correct one.

The ones sold in the US had the 1600cc engine that became standard in 1970.

First, the rubber cover on the back of the bulb must be removed. Remove the connector, then loosen the torque screws. The locking ring can now be turned counter-clockwise in and the headlamp can be taken out.

The kit comes with the parts that wear out and usually need replacing. You just need to buy the kit. Make sure you get the "premium" kit (if available) because it is more complete. You will need some carb cleaner, available from auto parts stores, to soak parts in. Carburetor build-up can be stubborn to remove and soaking is the best way to ensure parts are clean. Soak overnight as a minimum, but it could require a few days before coming thoroughly clean, depending on the condition of the carb. Follow the step-by-step instructions in the rebuild kit CAREFULLY.
The carburetor needs to be removed. In a well ventilated area disassemble the carburetor. Taking photos may help with reassembly. Carefully match up the new and old parts in the rebuild kit, as some kits fit several models and contain extra parts. Clean all of the old parts to reused, and reassemble the carburetor.

Lift rear engine cover. Locate the carburetor (sits under black aircleaner) follow the fuel line from the top left side of the carb to the fuel pump. The fuel pump is bolted by 2 13mm bolts to the engine case. There are 2 flavors of mechanical pump, one style fits a beetle with a generator, the other style is for a beetle with an alternator. The pump body is angled differently to clear the alternator body. NOTE: While replacing the pump replace the grommet where the fuel line passes from the tank (in the front of the car) through the engine sheetmetal to the intake of the fuel pump. That grommet is known to fail, engine vibration cuts the fuel line and an engine fire results. Not good. It's bolted to the engine right above the crank pulley. There are two hoses coming out of it--one to the carb, one to the front of the car. A lot of people have put electric fuel pumps on VWs--they're less expensive than mechanical ones and they work well. I don't think they're really all that safe unless you can figure out a way to wire a relay in that cuts off the pump when the engine quits. If your car has one of these, it's probably bolted to the side of the engine compartment. To find it, trace the fuel line coming out of the carb to it.

36mm. You really should have a 3/4" drive ratchet to get this off, because they start at 220 lb-ft and get tighter as you drive. I've broken five flex-head breaker bars over the years removing this one nut.

The "automatic gearbox" Volkswagen used to put in Beetles is an "autostick" transmission. It has a three-speed manual transmission connected to a vacuum-operated clutch and a torque converter. There's no clutch pedal but you still have to shift it.

1966 type 1 were either 1194cc which was 77mm with 2.5mm top and oil ring1300 was also 77mm but with 2mm top and oil scraper ring

1500 was 83mm with 2mm top and scraper.

However, you need to pull the engine apart and measure because you never know what has been done to it.

All VWs have a slightly different timing setting. The official setting is 5 degrees before top dead center, but I'll tell you how to get it exactly right.

First thing you do is set the valve clearance. This WILL change your timing. Please note: the engine has to be completely cold to properly set the valves, so do this in the morning after the car has rested overnight.

Once that's done, get your timing light, dwell tach, little flathead screwdriver, feeler gauges and 10mm nutdriver. Examine your crank pulley. If it's the one the car came with from the factory, there will be a notch filed in the rim. That notch is at 5 degrees before top dead center. If you have one of the pulleys with a protractor painted on it (the cool kids call these degree wheels), the 5 you're looking for is the one to the right of the TDC mark.

Next, adjust your points to 0.016". This will get you started. You WILL be adjusting them in just a second.

Next, adjust the idle screw on the throttle arm. Turn it all the way in. Turn it all the way out, counting the number of turns. Then turn it back in halfway.

Anyway, start the car and adjust the idle speed to 1500 rpm. There is a screw on the left side of the carb body - NOT the screw on the throttle arm! Yes, that's very fast compared to modern cars, but it's correct for this car. Next, switch the tach to the dwell setting and look at what it says. It should read 50 degrees of dwell, or as close to it as you can get - try keeping it within five degrees in either direction. What "dwell" is, is the length of time the points are closed, measured in degrees of engine rotation. While the points are closed, power is going to the coil to charge it up. If the dwell is too short, there won't be enough charge and you'll get a weak spark. If it's too long, the points won't have enough "open" time and you'll get an incomplete fuel burn. If the dwell is too long you close the points gap; if it's too short you increase it. Once the dwell is right, switch back to the RPM setting and readjust to 1500 rpm.

NOW it's time to look at the timing. Point your timing light at the crank pulley and pull the trigger. If the timing is 5 degrees before top dead center, grab the throttle arm on the carb and pull back real fast. If the engine doesn't bog down before it accelerates, you're done. Since you're not done, loosen the distributor clamp and very, very slowly turn the distributor. If the mark goes the other way from what you want it to, turn it the other direction until the mark is lined up. Then pull the throttle arm. If the engine accelerates nicely, tighten the clamp and readjust the idle speed; if it doesn't accelerate nicely, turn the distributor just a hair and pull the arm, and repeat this until you get good acceleration.

Notice I keep telling you to readjust the idle. This WILL change with every adjustment you make.

Get Muirs book and the Bentley manual. .006 is the "official" range now for stock motors. VW updated it in the later years and retroactive to earlier years.

The timing is too retarded. It runs okay when you're in the gas, right? When you step on the gas in a car, the timing advances. When you let off, it retards again. There's a range of timing the car will run in, and when you get out of the gas the car falls out of that range. Result: stall, just like you described. All you really need is a tune-up. Also, be sure and keep up on the valve adjustment as the Beetles are real sensitive to timing if not kept up on. It makes a big difference sometimes. Good call on the valves...every three months, every Bug owner needs to take a Saturday morning and set the valves and timing, clean the plugs (although I never do that--Bosch Super plugs are inexpensive enough that I just replace them), set the idle, set the dwell on the points, and change the oil. (Oil change interval on a Bug without an oil filter retrofit is 1500. So it's oil change - full Saturday morning service - oil change...) If you don't want to do the dwell adjustment, which is a grade-A pain, change to a Pertronix Ignitor points eliminator.

You can't remove just the inside handle. The handle is part of the door panel.