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VW Beetle Type 1
Also known as the Beetle, the Volkswagen Type 1 was an economy car manufactured by Volkswagen from 1938-2003. It was dubbed as the “The People's Car” and became the world’s most-manufactured and longest-running car.
1,822 Questions
What is the gross vehicle weight of the 2013 Volkswagen Beetle-Convertible?
The gross weight of the 2013 Volkswagen Beetle-Convertible is 4123 lbs..
The problem is between the steering wheel and front seat backrest...
How do you remove the top bolts from a 1994 Lincoln Town Car starter?
Let me adjust this answer a bit. I have a 1995 towncar, and I suspect that they are practically identical. Mine is an eight cylinder and I have just removed and replaced the starter. It is necessary, of course, to jack the automobile up a sufficient height to allow one to comfortably reach up and work at arm's length, or else put the car on some sort of rack that will allow access to the starter area. If you jack the car up, do not fail to use a jack stand to provide additional support in the event of a jack failure. It is very important of course, to have the car in park and have the wheels securely chocked to avoid any movement of the vehicle whatsoever once it is lifted off the ground.
I discovered that one has to use a 10mm socket and a couple of short extensions and a ratchet, size 3/8s. I recommend that size because the area is very tight! I suppose that one could use the quarter inch extensions and ratchets, but it is my belief that as tight as the starter bolts are, you would either break the inside gears of the quarter size ratchet or possibly break one of the ends of the extensions or the ratchet connection to the extension itself.
To be successful, one must select socket and extensions that will allow the ratchet to barely project past the end of the starter(toward the front of the car), as there is a frame brace immediately in front of the starter! That frame brace will prevent use of any tool that projects more than one forth to one half an inch beyond the end of the starter.
Additionally, there is a mounting bracket on the side of the engine, between the starter and the block that retains the two metal lines that I assume go back to the transmission.
That bracket has a single bolt attaching it to the block, and if it is not removed, and the bracket slid out of the way, (not removed, mind you) the bracket will prevent the starter from being positioned back in place so that the bolts can be installed. If you do not remove the bracket bolt, the clearance is so tight that it will be impossible to replace the starter. There is plenty of room to re install that bolt once the starter is installed, so do not allow that to worry you.
The bottom two bolts are not really too much of a problem to remove, and I would advise against removing the solenoid as there is very little room to reinstall the two torx bolts (actually small screws) that attach the solenoid to the starter itself. I had considered that option myself but when I observed the lack of space that would remain once the starter itself was positioned and bolted down, I decided that I would be better off to use touch to remove and re install the starter. One must reach up (i found it necessary to use my left hand) and feel for the top bolt, using my little finger to locate the bolt, which is approximately 180 degrees from the bottom bolt. After locating that bolt, one must slide the socket and extensions and ratchet handle up above the starter, with the right hand, ())and this is not easy,) but it can be done, and with the little finger of the left hand marking the bolt, slide the socket over the head of the bolt. There is a necessity to be very precise about the length of the socket and the extensions. I used a deep well 10mm six point socket and appropriate length extensions.
When re assembling the unit, it is very difficult to keep the bolt in the socket so that you can put it back in the top hole. I solved that problem by taking some heavy adhesive that I had kept from a windshield installation and placing it around the head of the bolt so that it was held solidly in the opening of the socket. That material is almost like gum and is black and very sticky. Without that material to hold the bolt, I doubt that I would have ever managed to re install the top bolt in place!
I hope this is helpful to anyone attempting to do this. The clearances are so tight that if you are either too long or too short in your tool extension length, you will either not be able to reach the bolt head, or the frame cross piece will not allow you to get the socket on the head of the bolt! The biggest problem I had, once I got the bolt in the hole, was the little lever on the ratchet kept hitting the frame piece and reversing the direction of the ratchet. Frustrating indeed, but possible. I would like to find the man who designed the available space for this starter installation and force him to do the job.
I wish you luck and you must be determined and focused to be able to successfully accomplish this. You will be proud of yourself once you do this!(by Jim Dear)
You must remove the silinoid that is on the starter in order to reach the rear bolts on the starter.
I had the same problem. But when I took the starter off I found out it had already been replaced once and the top bolt was left out. The starter had been on the car for at least 110,000. I put the new starter on and left the top bolt out. The car has been running fine for 10,000. .
Additional helpful info:The torx screws on the solenoid can be easily removed if you purchase a set of torx tips for a screwdriver. Find the wrench size that snuggly fits the part of the torx tip intended for inserting into the scredriver handle (1/4" is most common) and use one finger to hold the torx tip in place while using the wrench to remove the torx screws. Also, as the top bolt is used to prevent torquing, you can purchase a stud, or cut down a piece of threaded rod to provide a "peg" in place of the previous bolt that created all this fun in the first place.What is the shift pattern for a 1970 vw bug?
Your forward gears are in a standard "H" pattern. To engage reverse, bring the shifter all the way to the left then push it down and pull back.
What is the setting for the points in your 1979 VW Beetle?
.016 inches or 50 degrees dwell plus or minus 2 degrees.
How do you rebuild a carburetor on a 1989 corolla?
How do you rebuild a carburetor on a 1989 corolla?" http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528006f351 full guide, but you need a kit to do it, you cant really just use all of your old o-ring and expendable parts.
What kind of gas does a bug Volkswagen take?
Clean gasoline for street automobiles, and "regular" is fine. Don't put aviation gasoline in one; there's lead you don't need in it, there's octane you don't need in it and the fact no one paid road tax on it means it's illegal to use it in a car anyway. Besides, car engines run terrible on it. Don't use racing fuel either; it's also tax-exempt hence not to be used in a road car.
How do you change the front wheel bearings on a 1972 vw beetle?
Get John Muirs -"How to keep your Volkswagen alive, A manual for the Compleat Idiot" and Bentleys "workshop manual". They have a huge amount of info, John Muir is a "real world" work-book and the Bently Manual is the VW "Official Workshop Manual" . Just like any other vehicle. Just do one side at a time so you can reference the other side if you can't remember.
What is the turning circle of the 2013 Volkswagen Beetle-Convertible?
The 2013 Volkswagen Beetle-Convertible's turning circle is 35.4 ft..
How do you replace the alternator on a 1970 volkswagen beetle?
Get John Muirs -"How to keep your Volkswagen alive, a manual for the Compleat Idiot" and Bentleys "workshop manual". They have a huge amount of info, John Muir is a "real world" work-book and the Bently Manual is the VW "Official Workshop Manual" . It's actually a Generator on early '72's and earlier unless it's been retrofitted already I believe, but any way they are removed the same. Mark the wires so you know where they go when you get it back together. Take the pulleys off, and then the band that holds the gen/alt to the stand and then take the four bolts off of the fan shroud. The fan is connected to the other side of that panel. That whole thing comes out so move what ever you can to be able to pull it out. When you have it out look on the other side and in the middle of the fan is a BIG nut. Take that off and the panels come loose. If it's an Alternator then remember how the panels are assembled as they also are set a certain way for the cooling of the Alternator.
How to install alternator on 1967 vw beetle?
The easiest way, and probably the cheapest by the time you're done, is to buy an alternator conversion kit. Because 1967 is the first year of the 12v system, IF your car was 12v from the factory (look in the driver's doorjamb for a "12v" sticker) you won't have to change the radio, bulbs and battery.
How do you remove the front seats in a 1975 beetle?
Pull the adjustment lever all the way to the right and slide the seat all the way forward fast and hard. It will come off the track.
How do you install a VW Beetle shifter?
You simply unbolt the two floor bolts, remove the shifter, and install the new one the same way. Be aware early (65 and older?) are a pin type, later are the more common ball type You simply unbolt the two floor bolts, remove the shifter, and install the new one the same way. Be aware early (65 and older?) are a pin type, later are the more common ball type
this happend to me a while back.....the linkage from your wiper blades to the wiper motor might have got disconnected its a very quick fix....depending on were it is in your car (mines was under the screen were the windshild end your have to take off that screen and the screen underneath) than you should be bale to see the linkage and if one of them is off neither wiper blade will work alls you have to do it snap the joints back together took me no more than 10 minutes the way to tell if this is the problem move both wipers with your hand and if one moves really weird and the other one doesn't is the linkage chances are its the linkage
I just had a situation where the wipers were intermittent and then stopped all together. First, it could be the wiper control switch. (Dealership wants $346.00.) RockAuto ($100.00 brand spanking new.) In my case it wasn't the switch. 2. The wiper drive motor and control module. I bought a rebuilt motor and control module from RockAuto. (+$100.00) I inspected the old unit and found that the control module was cooked. (Electronic components black and very stinky!) The control module is often called a "wiper motor pulse board" (electronic circuit board). It can be had online for about $30.00. If you are not mechanically inclined you might not want to attempt to disassemble the wiper assembly by yourself. You will need a special tool to remove the wiper arms. The job is a chore and you have to know what your doing on reassembly, particularly the motor crank arm assembly has to be in the park position when assembled on the motor transmission shaft. (I recommend buying the replacement motor because everything is factory sealed. If you change just the board and don't seal it corerectly YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS! Water and electricity don't mix well.
Where is the horn button on a 1997 subaru impreza?
it should be on the centre of the steering wheel unless someone has put an after market steering wheel on without the horn.
What year was your VW engine number 0638297 made?
Look for two letters in front of this number to identify this engine successfully.
Can you use synthetic 10-30 in a 1968 vw beetle?
Sure you can. However.... if you're not running a bypass filter setup then the benefit of longer change intervals is not there. Whether synthetic or regular it's going to get dirty enough to change in the same time.
For all around protection the very best oils would be ones with the high zinc levels, whether dino or synthetic. Typically called "racing oils" because of the zinc additive (zinc protects flat tappet engines like the classic vw) damage catalytic converters. Some of the better known, high zinc oils are Amsoil, Brad Penn and Valvoline VR-1.
To sum it up: Run a good, high zinc oil, either dino or synthetic, to protect your classic engine. With a bypass filter you'll get a longer time between changes besides the other benefits of a filter. Hope the helps....
How do you drain the oil on 1970 VW?
Looking at the center of the underside of your engine, you'll see a round cap approximately four inches in diameter, and usually painted black (the "sump"). Normally, there's a large plug in its center, 17mm if my memory serves me. That's your drain plug. Pull this while the engine is hot to drain the oil.
If it doesn't have the center plug, you'll have to pull the entire sump loose by removing the six 10mm nuts. Make sure you keep track of the copper washers under the nuts. As the sump is removed, you should be able to separate the screen that's sandwiched between two gaskets. Carefully remove all the parts from the six studs hanging from the center cases.
A lot of people will recommend pulling the entire sump at every oil change to clean the screen even if it has the center drain plug, but it's really not necessary. Since it's a pretty course mesh, your engine would probably grenade by the time anything large enough to be caught would show up here.
The best thing you can do for your hair dryer is to install a full-flow spin-on oil filter kit. This has the triple-bonus of keeping your oil much cleaner, adding another quart of oil to the system, and increasing the oil's ability to reject more heat. 'Very important on an air-cooled engine.
Be careful of those "full flow spin on oil filter kits." They work great at cleaning crud out of your oil, especially if you buy the "OEM" one Volkswagen used on Mexican beetles, but if you've got the stock exhaust system on your car they put the oil filter a half-inch from the muffler so your oil gets nice and hot. This can be solved by changing the stock exhaust to something else. You can pick up an "extractor style Volkswagen exhaust system" for around $80 that will do it, or a "megadual" exhaust, "hide-away" exhaust...lots of different exhausts that don't stick the muffler right behind the engine are available.
If you want to get serious about full-flow oil filtering, you should wait until your next rebuild and have your case tapped for full-flow oiling. This will give you a port on the case for oil to come out, and you'll use a replacement oil pump cover to bring it back in. The oil filter will screw into a plate that's bolted to one of your car's frame rails. This is more secure, and you don't have extra weight hanging off your oil pump mounting bolts like you do with the full-flow kits, just sitting there waiting to cause another oil leak.
Which cars have the engine in the back?
Air cooled VW Beetles and vans, Corvair, DeLorian, Some BMW's, many models of Porche, and the Pontiac Fiero, although they CLAIMED that it was "mid engine", but if the driver is sitting in front of the engine, I'd call it "rear engine".
I'm sure there are some others, but I can't think of them.
How do you remove the distributor drive shaft on a 1972 beetle?
The distributor is a single unit. Set the engine to top dead center. Make a witness mark on the distributor body and the engine case to reassemble and re-align the unit. Remove the distributor clamp holding the distributor in place. Remove and mark the wires. Pull the distributor straight up and out of the engine case. The shaft is keyed and should be in the body of the distributor. Reassembly is the reverse procedure.
How do you get to the top bolt to remove your starter on a 1993 Nissan truck 4 cylinder?
by going over the top of the bell housing
