VW Beetle Type 1

Try some fingernail polish remover.

This question can not be answered in this forum as it is an illegal act. The Federal Government mandates that the emission system on an automobile is Not to be altered or removed from a vehicle and is punishable with a fine or imprisonment.

If the 71 is a standard then yes it will fit.

round ones < really funny... Tire choiceis important, cheap tires are no bargain. Get quality tires that fit the area you live in. If you intend to drive in snow and ice get tires rated for that. Hopefully your old VW gets to stay warm and dry inside a garage and only brought out when the weather is nice. In that case get summer tires, they really grip the road better than the all weather tires. All the top of the line tire manufacturers make good tires- stay away from the cheapos!

brake warning light

Approximately 60 inches for the classic Type 1 old Beetles.

Not without a huge amount of work. Until 1968 VW used swing arm rear suspension. In 1969 they changed to Independent Rear Suspension, with CV joints.

18psi in the front tires, 26psi in the rears.

Lift rear engine cover. Locate the carburetor (sits under black aircleaner) follow the fuel line from the top left side of the carb to the fuel pump. The fuel pump is bolted by 2 13mm bolts to the engine case. There are 2 flavors of mechanical pump, one style fits a beetle with a generator, the other style is for a beetle with an alternator. The pump body is angled differently to clear the alternator body. NOTE: While replacing the pump replace the grommet where the fuel line passes from the tank (in the front of the car) through the engine sheetmetal to the intake of the fuel pump. That grommet is known to fail, engine vibration cuts the fuel line and an engine fire results. Not good.

Easier answer

It's bolted to the engine right above the crank pulley. There are two hoses coming out of it--one to the carb, one to the front of the car.

Another answer

A lot of people have put electric fuel pumps on VWs--they're less expensive than mechanical ones and they work well. I don't think they're really all that safe unless you can figure out a way to wire a relay in that cuts off the pump when the engine quits. If your car has one of these, it's probably bolted to the side of the engine compartment. To find it, trace the fuel line coming out of the carb to it.

Ignore these answer, they dont give much help I think....

another solution is: to remove:

1. Pull hoses from pump and properly stop up ( insert a bolt or such to stop fuel flow and keep debris out of other) 2. Unscrew bolts at the flange ( what holds it on) 3. lift off pump 4. remove push rod, intermediate flange, and gaskets. fuel pump now out.

to adjust pump stroke: ( note ALWAYS install intermediate flange on crankcase BEFORE inserting rod, otherwise rof may slip through flange into crankcase.) 1. Place new gaskets on the crankcase studs for pump and install intermediate flange on top of them. 2. Insert push rod in the flange, tapered end down, to ride on eccentric cam of distrisbutor drive shaft.

( warning+ make sure ignition is OFF) 3. Turn the engine by hand until the push rod rises to its highest point of travel. 4. Measure projection of rod abovew the flange; that is, from tip of rod to upper flange surface measurement should be 0.51 inch 9 (13mm) 5. Turn engine again ( by hand) to bring rod to lowest point of travel. Measure tip of rod to surface of flange. total pump stroke should be about 0.16 inch ( between 4 and 5 mm) 6. Set stroke to correct measurement by removeing a flange gasket or by adding one (or more) To Install: 1. fill lower chamber with universal grease. 2. install pump with inspection cover at left. Attach nuts. (Engine should be warm and not stone cold. use heater if necessary to bring to working temperature) retighten nuts but do not over tighten. 3. reconnect hoses/fuel lines and check seating of rubber gaskets. 4. reconnect battery. (I have a 68 with an alternator mod instead of a generator. this works fine for both.)

Through the hole in the outer drum with a straight slot screwdriver.

First, you will need to remove the large wing-nut off of the cable where it attaches to the transmission arm. You will probably have to jack up the car and get underneath to do this, so be careful under there, and use jack-stands and block the vehicle from moving. While you are down there, I suggest pulling the flexible tubing away from the transmission. It slides out away from the transmission. It will make your reassembly much easier if you pull that tube away from the transmission because the cable won't have to make that sharp turn. Next, you need to unbold the pedal assembly in the car. There are just 2 large bolts to undo. You will need to disconnect the accellerator cable before pulling the pedal assy from the center tunnel, and you will also have to remove the brake rod that attaches to the brake pedal. After you get the accellerator cable and brake rod off, you can pull out the whole pedal assy. from the center tunnel. Remove slowly, and take a peak in the hole. You should notice the clutch cable and how it attaches to the 'hook' on the end of the pedal. Unhook the cable from the hook, and now you can pull the pedal assy completely out. Take a good look at the 'hook' on the pedal and make sure it isn't worn out really bad...they can wear to the point where they break right there...so give it a good inspection before putting it all back together. Now you can pull out the old clutch cable. Take notice that the cable is routed in a tube that runs inside the center tunnel, because that is exactly where you need to thread in the new cable. Slide in the new cable all the way. Now, go back to under the car, and make sure that the cable is running thru the flexy tube. Poke the whole thing, cable and tube, thru the hole in the transmission that you pulled it away from earlier. So now, the flexy tube is back in place that way it was. Stick the cable thru the arm in the transmission, but don't put on the wingnut yet! Go to the pedal assy. Put the cable on the hook as you put the assy back into the hole in the center tunnel. This is the tricky part. Hook the cable on...and stick the pedal assy in. You should now push the clutch pedal down to the floor...as if you were going to push the clutch in. This will keep the cable from sliding off of the hook while you bold the assy back to the center tunnel. You need to be careful to make sure that the pedals don't come too far back...they need to be depressed...at least the clutch one does. Before you hook the accellerator and brake rod back on, tighten down 2 bolt all the way. Clutch is still to the floor...all the way down. Go under the car next, and pull the cable all the way thru the arm in the transmission, so that you pull the clutch pedal back into normal position. If you do this correctly, the cable won't have fallen off the hook. Tighten the wingnut. I usuall put a small pair of vice-grips on the cable end to keep it from twisting as I put the wingnut on. You will need to adjust the clutch cable so that you press the clutch pedal about an inch before it starts to engage the pressure plate. Don't tighten the wing nut too far, or the clutch will 'ride' on your throwout bearing and wear out your clutch itself. Give your clutch pedal a good pump or two and make sure everything is working smoothely without any binding and such, and that you have your inch of 'slop' in the clutch adjustment. Once you verify all this is good, you can replace the brake rod. The brake rod should also have some 'slop'. With the brake padal all the way back, in it's normal position, there should be a tiny bit of slop where the rod connects into the master cyclinder. Sometimes the pedal adjustment gets off a little when removing the pedal assy, so make sure it is all good going back together. There is a pedal stop that determins how far back the pedals rest when in the normal position. You might need to fudge with that to fine tund the pedal position if things don't go back in place correctly. Last thing is to put the accellerator cable back on. You want that adjusted so that your carb opens all the way up when the gas pedal is all the way down....but at the same time, it needs to be loose enough to let the carb close all the way. Good luck, and stay safe.

Removing the roof panel requires that you locate and back-out two screws from the rear of the panel, and the two at the front..., there was a tool supplied in the center console for this purpose.

Yes. Good luck getting the '02 glass out without breaking it!

If you look closely on the sheetmetal cylinder head cover next to the spark plugs you will see them labeled. The number two cylinder is the furthest to the rear of the car on the right side. When you are sitting in the driver's seat your right hand is on the right side of the car.

Either a 2.3/2.5 4cylinder or a 3.0 V6

Volkswagen authorized DPD and Delanair as volkswagen authorized accessories to be installed at vw dealers beginning in 1961, in 1968 vw bought Delanair and Porscheair and combined the companies to be VPC (Volkswagen Products Corporation) to make air conditioners exclusively for vws. they were never a factory installed deal even up to the last aircooled beetles in 1979, and buses in 1982. they were always a dealer installed option. GOOD LUCK finding any these days as they were an expensive and rare option back in the day. today, ICEAC industries in San Diego, CA and Gilbert Interprises in Florida offer modern day aftermarket kits for beetles and buses, they work great, but dont have the period look in any fashion.

typical vx beetles weigh 1,200 lbs. with 1/2 tank of gas. at least my 68 does :-)

Impact driver and lots of rust penetrant.

The lock is under the VW emblem -- I believe it turns counter-clockwise.

yes, and it has all u need to rebuild.

One that doesn't run, and whose Number 1 Main bearing journal isn't trashed.

Or, more specifically, one that doesn't run, has a good Number 1 Main bearing journal, and also has dual pressure relief valves in the case.

thesamba.com has everything

decode vin 1973 Volkswagen beetle

The curb weight of the 2012 Volkswagen Beetle is 2939 lbs..

The super beetle was not put into production until 1971, there is no such vehicle as a 1964 super beetle.