VW Beetle Type 1

I'm not by any means an expert but on my 87 4X4 5 speed the cable runs from the speedometer down the top right of the transmission into the back of the transfer case under neath the truck. It will be a thick (about 3/8"), stiff, black wire which is actually the cable housing.

The headlight bulbs just twist counter-clockwise in and out of place. They are located under the hood on either side of the radiator, directly behind the headlights. The foglights are 9006 low beam bulbs. They have to be accessed from under the front bumper. Move the black plastic piece out of the way and unscrew the three screws surrounding the bulb. It should come right out.

There are bolts attaching the body under the fuel tank in the front, under the body itself, beneath the rear seat, and in the rear wheel well. Also the steering coupler needs to be disconnected. Any one else have more?

The battery light can stay on for a couple of different reasons. Assuming your new battery is good (which may not be true and should be checked if all else fails) then most likely problem would be the alternator (generator in old Beetles). The light will stay on if the charging system is malfunctioning or the batteryhas completely failed, a bad battery itself may not light the light.If you don't have any test equipment then a professionals help will be required.

1-4-3-2 is the correct firing order.

The fuel gauge is a very simple affair. The gauge itself, a 3 terminal voltage regulator and the in tank level sensor. Check fuses first, check for a good ground to the fuel gauge sensor on the tank. Pull the wire on the tank sensor, ground the wire, with key on gauge should deflect. No gauge movement means bad gauge or regulator. Reconnect wire. Check for 12V at the input of the voltage regulator, check for around 5V at the gauge side of the VR. If no suspect bad VR. If yes suspect bad gauge. If gauge does deflect when grounding tank sensor wire the intank sensor is bad and must be replaced.

I have a 73 Super Beetle restored with a 1600 engine. Two questions. What is the best grade of Gasoline to use? Can you use Mobile One Oil? Thanks.

Perry

you can find it on the trans axle next to the starter, its in the owners manual...mike

The engine number for the VN Commodore V6 (Buick V6) is located on the front of the engine block just below the lower radiator hose or beside the air con compressor on a flat part of the block, The engine number is stamped on about a 80 degree angle, Almost verticle reading bottom to top

You'd need an alcohol-rated carb, alcohol-rated fuel lines, an alcohol fuel filter, and a LOT of patience because while E85 sells for less money per gallon, you're going to burn more of it to get the same power. So you have to mess with the carb settings to get the engine to run right. I don't think you'll like it.

I had been trying to find the same answer for a while. Finally I thought about tar remover, but did not have any. I used engine degreaser, let the parts soak for a few mins and then rubbed the loosened sticky gunk off the piece's. As for as the large interior piece's, I guess you would have to take them out of the car clean them and then immediately wash with soap and water to be sure you did not get the degreaser smell into the car. Hope this helps.

Volkswagen Ran with the split-window from 1938-1945 (KDFWagen) And from 1945 Until March of 1953 when they changed the design to the oval window.

Regards.

Your camber is off.

I'm not 100% sure about to fix that on a super beetle but I'm pretty sure your camber off.

either that or you have the wrong size wheels on there.

standard VW wheels should be 165R15

Volkswagon's are great cars, and the Beetle is a classic. They're very dependable and don't require much except regular maintenance.

Camshafts last quite a while, but I'd recommend installing a new one with each overhaul.

“looking to see if the 72 VW I own is a Beetle or Super Beetle? VIN # 1122369336”

first you have to take of the beauty ring, this is done by unscrewing the screw in the bottom of the beauty ring. Next, you have to unscrew two screws on the either side of the light, don't unscrew the one on the top because that is just the beam adjuster. Finally, unplug the wire from the back of the light and it's out.

If you have a manual transmission and a centrifugal advance distributor, you don't have any. If you have vacuum advance on your distributor, there's one vacuum hose running from the side of the carb to the distributor. If you have an automatic transmission, you've got a hose from the intake manifold to the control valve.

1st 3.250 2nd 1.650 3rd 1.033 4th 0.823 final 3.888

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to AutoZone or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

I remember the push rod tubes being a source of an oil leak.

The common issue is a vacuum leak. Check you vacuum lines and the rubber connectors that are on the intake runners.

I'm doing one right now. Fuel pum is under rear seat. Fold up rear seat remove 3 screws from black cover. Remove Wiring harness. Remove both fuel lines making sure you know their locations. Remove pump replace with new. Remember to purchase new seal probably from dealer. Good luck.

Shell Rotella T 10W30.

on the car