Water-Cooled VW

It should be a group 41 battery.

I'm not sure if it applies to German automobiles as well, but typically in domestic cars if the check engine light is blinking or flashing it means you are doing damage to the catalytic converter. Usually this is caused by a misfire in the engine, which could the the fault of a few things (i.e. bad spark plug, bad plug wire, bad fuel injector, etc.). It is highly recommended that you do NOT drive the vehicle when the check engine light is 'blinking'.

The only thing I can think of...do you have the right fan belt?

It's in the relay box under steering column. You can see it when you remove the fuse cover on the left side

It is in the distributor

1600cc beetle upright style engine...17-22mpg-ish, depending if you're lead footing it or not, around town or on a road trip.

A synthetic 5W30 will do you well.

Camber is done by adjusting the lower control arm bolt. Caster isn't really adjustable. you can buy a kit from toplineparts.com that will give you more adjustment.

There are two ports to recharge the air conditioner in a 1998 VW Jetta. Follow the Air Conditioner lines to the firewall, the lower one is on the passenger side near the strut tower.

There is a Coolant Fan Control Relay on the main relay panel ('98 -5/'03), located under the left side of the instrument panel, Position 13, number on relay, 53, 2nd row, far right.

This is usually caused from fuel lines in the engine compartment cracking or coming loose, spraying fuel on a hot engine. This can happen if the engine condition gets neglected. If you take care of your fuel lines by replacing them when they wear out and attach them properly, you should not have this problem.

Check the 5th injector (cold start). It may be stuck open. Check for plugged fuel return line from the fuel distributor. Check the fuel system pressure. JC Whitney carries a CIS-E gauge kit for $60. Follow the directions with the kit.

Just follow the bottom radiator hose from the from the radiator to where it connects to the engine, that is where it is located, in a plastic housing

There is a notch on the valve cover side of the overhead cam pully. Line it up with the top of the valve cover. Turn the engine over with a wrench until you see the TDC on the fly wheel. You will see a bar with bumps at either end on the fly wheel as it passes by. If things are way out of wack here you need to make sure you don't force anything as you may hit the valves as you turn the engine. If the timing belt is off the valves can out of the way as you turn the engine. Remove the spark plug from cylinder one and verify you have the cylinder at the top of its stroke (TDC). Once you have done this you need to remove the distributer cap and verify that it is pointing at cylinder one point (2 o'clock position approx). To move the spark timing you have to move the lover cam positioned below the alternator. To verify you have this set up correctly there is a notch on the main pully of the crankshaft and a dot impression on the cam pully for the distributer - these should be beside each other. Put your belt on and tension properly. Turn the engine through some cycles to make sure the valves are not hitting. Start your engine and verify timing with a strobe gun and rotate the distributer to get it just right. If you want to do it crudely just rotate counter clockwise until you hear some pinging and then back off a bit (~5degrees)- should be perfect.

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It's got to be a synthetic diesel engine oil. The easiest oil to get in the US is Shell Rotella T6, viscosity 5W40.

the relay is located at the fuse box. if it is an American made rabbit the box is labeled.

This is probably the Oxygen sensor. It needs to be replaced at regular intervals based upon miles/km driven. There is a switch on a rectangular box near the left front wheel. The speedometer cable is connected to that coming from the left front wheel and going to the dashboard. Use a pencil or similar to reset the button. Of course replace the O2 sensor in the exhaust system!

Please remember to specify what model when asking VW related questions.
Normally on most models the water pump is driven by the timing belt, located on the passenger side of the engine compartment.Normally, the only visable part is the gear that the belt drives.

~RnNhyde

First check the fuses under the left lower side of the dashboard. German cars are normally wires Left/Right, so there is 1 fuse for the left headlamp, and one for the right one. That for low and high beams, so 4 in total. If the fuse(s) are fine it could be the switch near the instruments. The top of the cluster comes off by pulling back on the forward edge of it. Then there are 4 screws to remove that. There is an electrical harness to remove, and the speedometer cable. Really very simple. There are also relays near the fuse panel. Finally check the cables at the headlamps themselves, or the bulbs, Sounds like a lot of stuff, but nothing is really difficult to get to.

Number 1 cylinder is the forward left one. That being said, keep in mind that the engine is facing rear-wards. So, when looking into the engine compartment, the No1 cylinder is the one closest to the right taillight. No2 is the one by the left taillight, No3 is under the air cleaner assembly, and No 4 is the one closest to the driver.

On my VWs I change the OHC belt at 80K miles and retension every 15K miles on the older units. VW generally recommends 100K miles. On my VWs I change the OHC belt at 80K miles and retension every 15K miles on the older units. VW generally recommends 100K miles.

Turn the headlight switch clockwise, then pull out the switch. An owner's manual is a good thing to read.