Alternators

The monolithic regulator offers the performance that enables it to replace discrete assemblies or portions of discrete assemblies in conventional central regulators. In addition, their small size, low cost, and ease of use uniquely fit monolithic units for convenient point-of-use regulation. consider their effects separately.

This idea of distributing unregulated voltage through equipment and providing local regulation has much to recommend it. Among the particular advantages are greater ease in tailoring voltage level and regulation to the requirements of individual equipment stages, as well as improved isolation and decoupling of these various Specifically, the general formula for load regulation is

stages.

loosen the drivebelt by loosing the pivot bolt at the top of the power steering pump then loosen the other two bolts on the back of the pump. Underneath the power steering pump is a locknut and adjusting screw; loosen the locknut underneath the power steering pump pulley and turn the adjusting. From underneath, remove the splash shield and remove the 2 alternator mounting bolts, battery cable lead and electrical connector. Make sure first of all before you do anything, DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE or else you'll cause an electrical arc when you try disconnecting the Battery positive lead on the back of the alternator. Very easy to do is you take your time.

There are two options. It may be on the inside fender. It would be a square black metal box with at least four wires coming out of it. The other is it has an internal regulator in the alternator. If the plug on your alternator has two wires side by side coming out (II), it wil have an external regulator. If they are facing each other long ways (--) then it's internal.

Depending on your equipment you either have a 90 amp or a 95 amp alternator according to www.motorcraft.com . There are two 95 amp alternators listed and one 90 amp

The alternator on a Pontiac Aztek is replaced by removing the engine accessories, loosening the serpentine belt, and removing the retaining bolts. The alternator can then be pulled from its retaining bracket and a new one installed.

Go to NAPA and buy a repair manual for your specific car.

simple useful alternator test - with the car running at idle and no accessories, lights, etc. on. Disconnect your positive battery cable. the car should stay running if your alternator is functioning correctly. If it is, leave your battery disconnected from the alternator for the night, or for however long it has been taking to drain the battery. Reconnect in the morning and try to start it. Often alternators fail because a strain is being imposed on them by a battery short. It's good to replace both at the same time.

Usually $25 or so from a wrecking yard, up to hundreds of dollars at a dealership.

Battery light usually means alternator not charging. Most common solutions would be be a bad alternator, bad connection, or loose alternator belt. If the battery and alt test ok than check the connections to the alternator and battery.

First, make sure you battery connections are clean and tight. All good? Take it to an auto parts store where they will check it for you.

Going on the 3.0 L 4 wheel drive model the alternator is actually removable without removing the axle or lifting the engine as I've read over and over. Remove the bolts on the alternator. Remove the belt. You will likely have to remove the belt assembly in front of the lower mounting bolt. Remove the two connecting wires and viola, easily lifted out. Brush change is the likely option to fix the regulator. If the voltage regulator is at fault, apparently this isn't servicable and the whole unit will have to be replaced.

simply loosen the top alternator adjustment bolt, and you may need to loosen the lower mounting bolt if it's very tight. slide the alternator to the front of the car and remove the belt. replace the belt and slide the alternator back until the belt is tight. you might need to use a large screwdriver to get enought leverage to get propper belt tightness. tighten down the top adjustment bolt. start the car and listen for belt squeal. if it's present then loosen the top bolt again and try to get the belt tighter.

Hello. If your car has a charge indicator light, you should have a white wire with a black stripe hooked to the stator post, a white wire to the fld post, a black wire with a yellow stripe hooked to the bat post, and a black wire with a red stripe hooked to the ground post. The white wire on the fld post goes to the F terminal on the voltage regulator, the white wire with black stripe on the stator terminal goes over to the S post on the voltage regulator, the black wire with the yellow stripe on the bat post goes to the hot side of the starter solenoid, and the black wire on the grd post goes over to one of the attaching screws on the voltage regulator and also to the passenger side of the engine block, where it is attached with the same bolt that holds the negative battery cable to the block.

If your car has the charge indicator gauge instead of the light, the stator post is not used.

loo on www.focushscks,com they have the full detail on how to.

FIRST DISCONNECT THE BATTERY NEGITIVE TERMINAL!!!!! looking at the alternator, on the left side, down low, is a belt adjusting bolt 10mm i belive.there are also 2 bolts in front holding the alternator in place. loosen the 2 bolts first then loosen the belt adjuster bolt to get the belt off. then remove the 2 bolts in front holding the alternator in place. remove the alternator from the brackets. disconnect the wireing to the alternator. then you can lift the alternator out. you may have to squeeze it by the fan blades but it will come out. if you want to remove the fan blades to make it easer. i did not have to my self. reassembly is the reverse. when you go to tighten the belt make shure it is very good and tight rodeo's will squeel if it is not tight.

If you disconnect the battery for 20 min it should kill all memory and reset everything.If not you charge is still low charge up your batt. with a charger.and test your alt. output 13.9-13.7 you have to check the book.I'm not to sure on that.You might have a voltage regulator problem bad batt. Or somthing is hooked up wrong. Mabey the old alt was fine. Have the batt. tested. All alt. well most are rebuilts so you might have a bad one it happens.Make sure that it's putting out a charge. All the way to the batt. Good luck.

chances are it's the voltage regulatorit could also be a wire no connected on the alternator

Buy a digital multimeter ($10-15). with the car off check voltage at the battery. Should be 12-12.5 volts. If not start the car (boost if needed) and check the voltage again. Should be 13-14 volts at least with engine running then the alternator is usually o/k. If less than 12 volts you can suspect the alternator. Use the multimeter and check the big power wire at the back of the alternator. With the car running (BE CAREFUL OF YOUR FINGERS!!!!!) put the positive (red) probe of the meter on the terminal on the back of the alt and neg(black) on the neg terminal of the battery and check the voltage again. If still less than 12 volts check to see if the voltage regulator is in the alternator (call parts supplier if need be) most are in the alternator, and if it is replace the alternator. If it has an external voltage regulator check it also or just replace it depending on cost (most are cheap).

Most of the time people have a bad battery which kills the alternator. The vehicle runs off the battery and the alternator recharges the battery. If the battery is only at 50% for example the alternator has to work overtime to keep it charged which works the alternator to death and leads to premature replacement.

with the vehicle running(even if you have to jump start it), remove one of the clamps off of the battery. if the vehicle dies immediately, you have a bad alternator. if it runs for a little while before it dies, a bad battery.

This might have worked on a car thirty or more years ago but is actually potentially very harmful for a modern car. The cars now are designed to have a battery as an integral part of the charging system and if it is disconnected can send voltage spikes through the system and burn out your computer. Also the alternator is designed to put out a certain amount of current and this test would only tell if the alternator is putting out enough current to keep the engine running, not if it puts out enough to keep the battery charged, run the lights etc. The only real way to tell if the alternator works is to put a voltmeter on the battery and see if the voltage goes up after the car is started. Then to tell how well it works, put an amp meter in line with the alternator and see how much energy it puts out when the various circuits are turned on.

A bad battery can be hard to detect sometimes. It can work fine then all of a sudden fail to start. Then next time you try it works fine again. The best way to test it is with a load tester at an auto parts store or shop.

If you have a sedan, drop your back seat and look up in the trunk comparment, your trunk light is probably on

Can be any light on the car is on. Under hood, trunk, glove box, courtesy, etc. Can also be a relay is stuck closed. P/Windows, P/Locks, P/seat, etc

a magneto puts out dc electricity

It will be located in the engine compartment. Follow the battery hookups.

Yes, it can have a dead cell or something can be on pulling power from the battery. Batteries are just like people: Some live longer than others, but they all die eventually. A dead battery can indeed be an alternator problem, but is much more likely to just be a battery that reached the end of it's useful life.

There isn't a black connection on the alternator? That would be the correct side. If not, you could almost connect it to the bolt that holds down the alternator to the frame of the car. Check with someone else to be sure, but the negative side or connection is the common or ground wire. Just avoid hooking it to red.

The battery on a vehicle is primarily used only for starting the vehicle and providing power for such things as parking lights, radio etc for when the vehicle is switched off and stationary. The vehicle, when started and running will happily provide its own required electrics by means of its alternator/generator !

Todays alternators require power from a battery to excite the alternator into producing power unlike the old generators.

it can only be accessed for change beneath car. under front bumper passenger side.