Alternators

bottom right front of engine. it is shiny aluminum color new.

has only pulley on front right of motor

all directions are from drivers perspective (ASE rule)

Take the belt off and spin the alternator by hand. If you hear a grinding noise, like sand rubbing on metal, its probably going bad. Also try to wiggle the pulley up/down/left/right. If it wiggles, the bearings are going bad. Of coarse you can always wait until they get so bad they shatter and the alternator wont spin at all, like i did. :(

The solenoid (aka Starter Relay) on the Passenger Fender, could be defective.

The ignition switch could be faulty.

The Neutral Safety Switch (Automatic Transmissions) or the Clutch depressed switch are disconnected, or broken.

On vehicles with EEC-IV there can be a problem with the PCM module, usually located under the glove box and behind the right kick panel.

Did it struggle to start in the first place? Similar problem with my kf, had to jump start it, was fine for about 10 minutes then just died, wouldn't start again until jumped. Drove with lights on and they gradually got dimmer and dimmer, then died again, problem was the alternator. If your car has just died and wont start but lights+cd player etc. still work it will be starter motor or other problems.

you have to tilt and take off belts and push away from fire wall.

on a 2.0 u have to take one bolt from the top and the rest from the bottom and remove wheel well cover and turn wheel all the way to the right and it should wiggle out it takes some doin though

Take it to autozone and have the altermator checked out for free. It is probably bad.

Remove the neg battery cable, then the belt.Then the wiring and mounting bolts,

It could be that your battery is not getting charged by the alternator, which would be either a dead battery, a bad alternator, or a wiring issue. I'd get it checked at an actual automotive electical specialist, not at an auto parts store or a Wal-Mart-ish place.

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Try jump starting the battery and letting it run for awhile (15-20 mins). Turn the car off then see if it starts. Did you buy the alternator new or get it at a junk yard? If new then it's probably the battery, which you can easily replace. If the alternator was bought second hand go get another one. If that doen't work then try the new battery thing. If neither of these things work, then you might consider taking it to a repair shop. If you need a specialist they will tell you, but chances are they can fix whatever problem you're having.

The clip on the alternator , it has a flat rectangle look, two wires . Often the wire on one of the clips will break, come loose, and still look ok. Carefully look to see if the wire is flexing thru the soft covering of the wire insulation, but broke inside. ( Very Common) Looking at the plug , has it a melted appearance to the plastic rectangle. Can you see the shiny copper/brass contacts that clip to the flat ears of the alternator. If that plug looks cooked, buy a replacement and carefully cut, splice , solder the new plug to the two wire harness you cut the old plug from. GET THE WIRES RIGHT ! You should also check the big red wire bolted to the backside of the alternator. ( usually has a rubber cap that covers the nut and stud it is bolted to.) Follow it along its path from the alternator, to the firewall you will see it attached to a block on the firewall . Was the wire soft and extra flexable along its path? You are looking for a melted internal wire. If you find a break or melted area internally along the wire...it may be the fuseable link. It is designed to melt if too much voltage ( an alternator shorts out or a battery shorts out)is loaded on the circuit. (Keeps it from causing a FIRE) You will often see that the wire has a Black or Red Plasic bulge built into the wire covering. This is the mark of a fusable link. REPLACE THE ENTIRE LENGTH with a NEW FUSABLE LINK...DO NOT SPICE IN A REPAIR. You may see a burned or discolored area in the wires outer vinyl covering. ( Not the Black PLastic outer , split protector cover....but the wire itself. Peel it out of the split covering if it is in one. If it is firm , look at the wire from the block on the firewall to where it runs. Did you recently change a Starter? Check the battery cables, are there any wires loose ( not connected) in the area of the battery? Have the parts store recheck the alternator..if it is a rebuilt...it may be bad. It happens more than it should. Post again here if you do not find an obvious problem. I have never seen both a bad Battery, and a Bad alternator on the same car. They work in the same circuit on the car...but usually only one will fail causing the loss of charge. Not at the SAME TIME. You have changed the major parts...but that may not have been the problem. Let me know what you find.

i had the same problem! replaced my alternator 3 times! battery light kept coming on, finally took it to an alternator specialist, come to find out my wireing was connected wrong, and the connector was bad, car wasn't reading the alternator correctly causing the alternator to shut down. Got it fixed for roughly 350 dollars but no problems since, suggest brand new alternator not a rebuilt one!

follow the exhaust down to the cat(s) the O2's are in the exhaust prior to or mounted on the CAT converter....read up a manual will help with diagnosis and repair, and a shop manual should be available at the local library in the reference section for FREE, make copies of the right pages, good luck...:)

Your distributor might need to be replaced. Answer #2: Check for loose or corroded cable connections at the battery posts; also, a loose belt could be the problem.

Removing the Alternator Disconnect battery ground cable Remove the ground wire (black) from the alternator Disconnect the positive wire (red wire held on by a retaining nut) from the back of the alternator Now disconnect the wire harness from the alternator Remove the drive belt NOTE: Some models use a belt tensioner that applies tension to the drive belt. The best tool to use for this job is the serpentine belt too. If you can borrow one from a neighbour you can get one at PartSource. (Part# 648451) On other models you will have to loosen the adjusting bolt on the alternator bracket. If you're not sure about how to remove the drive belt, visit your local PartSource for free print outs of vehicle specific instructions. Take off the mounting bolts from the alternator bracket Now remove the alternator from the engine compartment There. You've removed the alternator. How easy was that? Installing Your New Alternator Put the alternator in the engine compartment Install the mounting bolts that connect the alternator to the alternator bracket Connect the alternator wiring harness Now connect the positive wire to the alternator NOTE: Your new alternator should come with a retaining nut. Remember to remove the nut before you install the positive wire. If it doesn't keep the old nut. Connect the ground wire to the alternator Now install the drive belt This is a great time to replace your old worn out belt. When inspecting your old belt look for signs of cracking, oil soaked, hard glazed, splitting or fraying. All these signs mean it's time you replaced your drive belt. If your vehicle no longer has the belt routing diagram under the hood, visit your local PartSource for a free print out of the belt routing diagram. Reconnect the ground battery cable

Fully charge the battery Check with a voltmeter (should read approx. 12.8 volts without engine running) With engine running and good alternator reading should be 13.8-14.2 if the battery is dead the car wont start. replace the battery (preferably with a new one) run the car and if it dies or wont crank again its the alternator (or possibly the alternator belt is slipping)

White An blue wire from ecm will ground causing alt to not charge just cut w/b wire going to alt harness it will solve your problem

Detach the negative terminal from your battery, detach the wires from the alternator, detach the drivebelt by loosening the pivot bolts and the adjusting screw for the alternator and then slipping it off. fully loosen the bolts and the others that are holding the alternator to the engine, they are fairly easy to find and then go to buy a new one. Wherever you go to purchase a new one BRING YOUR OLD ALTERNATOR WITH YOU. You will need to visually compare them to make certain they are EXACTLY THE SAME. the parts number should be printed on a label on your alternator, make CERTAIn that it is THE SAME as the number on your new alternator.

it depand on the alternator and the RPM. Personnally, I tested a 14v 65amp yesterday and i was able to get 51volts

Make sure the wires actually lead to the batt and be sure its got a good ground

You replace it when it has failed.

It won't. Look for a light that is on or a stuck relay. Also a dead cell in the battery will cause it to run down overnight.

first disconnect the negative battery terminal, remove the aux belt, unbolt the power steering pump(only the bolts not the lines ok) just move itout of the way so you could get to the alternator bolts, undo all the alternator bolts and wires and replace it.

Iam trying to hook up a ele.brake controler on a ford 700 truck with air brakes cant find where yo hook the wire to send signal to controller

The alternator may be failing. Remove it and have it tested at an Auto Parts store.