Alternators

Check engine light usually indicates a problem in the emission control system - have vehicle scanned to determine the problem

Yes it is. I am having trouble with alternators on my 95 Aspire. They keep going out and I cannot find the problem.

Yes, a fully charged battery can start and run a car. However, anything that uses electricity will draw-down the battery capacity until eventually, the battery will be incapable of sustaining the ignition circuit. For example, if the alternator were to fail a night during a long trip, the lighting system [headlights, marker lights, brake lights, and the tail and turn signal lights will severely drain the battery in an one to three hours. On the other hand, if the vehicle is operated only in daylight, and none of the electrical draining functions are used [radio, A/C, heater blower, etc.] are used, the vehicle can be driven for many hours. The length of time the battery will sustain ingnition function is dependent on the capacity of the battery, the level of charge at the start, and the amount of accessory electrical use demanded of it.

Voltage should be 13 to 14.5 with car running. Sounds like the diode pack. If theres a big plug on the back of the alternator, disconnect it overnight. Reconnect before you try to start the car (a label on the steering wheel might help you remember). If the battery is flat you need to look elsewhere.

The 1994 Ford E150 voltage regulator can be found on the firewall in the engine compartment. The regulator will be on the passenger side of the firewall.

Check your battery cables. I have replaced my negative cable twice now. It runs about 6 feet down underneath to the side of the block and it's a pain to get it tight because it's hard to reach the bolt. Until you get it good and tight, you may still experience trouble starting the van which acts just like a dead battery.

just paid 180 for a duralast, oem would be much more probably closer to 300

first you need to jack up your car and put it on jack stands, then remove the passenger side wheel, then loosen the two bolts on the back of the power steering pump and the pivot bolt so you can remove the accessory drive belt. Then you can loosen the two bolts on the front of the alternator, then if you look at the alternator through the wheel well on the left side of the alternator there is a bracket, on the backside of the bracket there is an adjuster bolt loosen it and then you can remove the alternator belt.

If you have a voltmeter, check the battery voltage before and after starting the engine. Voltage should be about 12 V before starting (maybe a LITTLE more but probably a little less) and it should be close to 13.5 V with the engine running. If voltage doesn't get up to that, something is wrong with the charging system.

Check the electrical connections on the wires. Also, make sure that the new alternator is working. It is possible to get a new one that has problems. You might have to remove it and have it checked out. i have the same problem on my intrepid i changed the alt, batt, and still light on i check both alts and the first and second are good.

There are a couple of possiblities here, assuming the replacement alternator checks out ok. Most common, the main feed wire from the back of the alternator to the battery has a problem. In many vehicles there is a fuseable link where the wire attaches to the large starter bolt. (Again, this is not every vehicle.) This could be burned. An easy way to check for this is using a test light, one that you clip to ground then probe a wire to light it up. Ground it, then (carefully so you don't short out the tool) touch the large wire connection at the back of the alternator (with the engine off.) Many Fords use a second large connector on the side of the alternator; two large, same-colored wires are your feed wires. If it doesn't light up, that's your problem. Find the wire break. If this isn't the problem (98% of the time it is), there is the remote possibility that the switched feed wire to the regulator is not getting power. Basically, this tells the regulator that the vehicle is on and it's time to charge. Not a common problem though.

Remove the alternator from below the vehicle. 1. Disconnect the positive battery cable. 2. Disconnect the 4P or 3P connector from the alternator. 3. Remove the terminal nut and the WHT wire from the B terminal. 4. Remove the adjusting bolt and through bolt nut, then remove the alternator belt from the pulley. 5. Pull out the alternator through bolt, then remove the alternator. 6. If necessary, remove the mount bracket bolts, and the upper and lower mount brackets. 7. Adjust the alternator belt tension after installation. The deflection should be between 6mm to 8.5mm for a new belt.

take the pos. cable of the battery... then remove the overflow take..(this will make removale and installation easier) then remove the three bolts holding alternator.. then pop clips off and pos. wire on alternator. then remove

Check the voltage at your battery with the car running. You should have 13.5 to 15.5 volts. If you don't see this, your alternator is not charging. If that is the case, I would first check all my battery cables and connections for wear or corrosion, also your ground straps on the body and engine. If you check the voltage at the alternator and still see less than 13.5 volts, either your fan belt is too loose, dragging on something like a frozen AC compressor, or your new alternator has gone bad again. If all tests good, check for a bad accessory that is shorted or drawing way too much current. If your battery cables get way too hot, this may be the case.

What is the exact size of the engine (liters) and does it have AC. There are 2 models for that year. One of them was a GT. I can give you step by step instruction if I know the specifics. Thanks!

Start the engine and connect a volt meter set on 20 Volts DC to the battery posts. Red probe to positive and black to negative. You should get a reading of from 13.5 to 16 volts. Any less or more and the alternator is defective.

White wire is for signal voltage and the black wire sends the voltage to the battery, orange/red wire is your field wire that goes out to your external regulator, also there is a signal wire that goes to your battery gauge inside the cab.

Hi. Had the same problem with the same model. My problem was that I wasn't replacing with a genuine Daewoo part but another Korean brand and had a 5 to 10 Volt overcharge. I believe it may have something to do with the regulator that is very specific.

I decided on my 3rd attempt to replace with a Genuine Daewoo Part and have the problem solved. It obviously costs a bit more for the genuine part but its worth it in the long run.

Hope this helps. Hi. Had the same problem with the same model. My problem was that I wasn't replacing with a genuine Daewoo part but another Korean brand and had a 5 to 10 Volt overcharge. I believe it may have something to do with the regulator that is very specific.

I decided on my 3rd attempt to replace with a Genuine Daewoo Part and have the problem solved. It obviously costs a bit more for the genuine part but its worth it in the long run.

Hope this helps.

it's complicated,you need a professional mechanic

Battery light usually means alternator not charging. Most common solutions would be be a bad alternator, bad connection, or loose alternator belt. If the battery and alt test ok than check the connections to the alternator and battery.

Raise the car so you can work under the rear of the engine.

Make sure you support the car safely

Disconect the negative battery cable.

Crawl under the car, diconect the alternator wiring, should be one wiring conector that clips in and one heav wire with a 10 mm nut under a rubber cover.

Undo slider and pivot bolts being carefull to suport the alternator. In it falls on your face it means a trip to the hospital.

Reverse proceedure for assembly.

ok i have a 1994 ford probe 2.0, it should be the same, the alternator is behide the engine, i did it with just normal tools and didnt have to remove the cross member or half shaft, what i did is

1 remove negative terminal

2 jack the car up as far as you can

3 i unloosend the bolt that moves the alternator back and forth a little then went under and loosend the mounting bolt as much as i could

4 then i went back to the bolt that moves the alternator back and forth and took it out completely (pain in the butt bc u can only move the wrench 1/2 a turn a time, use extensions if u have)

5 remove the mounting bolts completely

6 then with the bolts out i used a hammer to remove it from the mount under neath

7 now with it free i took off the wires (thee is a nut holding the negative on pop the black cap with a flat head and remove it.

8 then i removed the mounting bracket (3 bolts)

9 then here comes the fun, i took the old alternator out by the half shaft i used a hammer and cow bar, and twist it so the pulley is facing the other pulleys (or just how eve u can)

10 to get the new one in all i did was play with it to get it over the half shaft and a little muscle to push it up in and got it.

11 then just reinstall everything.

there is 2 other ways to do it and one is remove the half shaft and that would make life simple also u can remove the crossmember and pull it out back and down by the exost pipe

it took me 2 days to figure this out so i hope it helps

the bolts are all 1/2 or 7/16

We need more info. The alternator is necessary, but the starter turns the flywheel to start the engine requiring a good battery. Does the battery turn the engine over, does the engine fire the spark plugs. Is there sufficient gasoline in the tank to start the car? Please give symptoms. Thanks.

Its a tricky one. You have to unscrew the water pump in order to move it out of the way to get to one of the screws on the Alternator.