Buick Regal

There are two sensors. One before the catalytic converter and one after. The first is at the back of the engine block on the manifold. It screws into the manifold and takes a special socket to remove (costs about $10). The second is between the converter and the muffler under the car. Its on top of the exhaust pipe and nearly impossible to change unless you take apart your exhaust system There are two sensors. One before the catalytic converter and one after. The first is at the back of the engine block on the manifold. It screws into the manifold and takes a special socket to remove (costs about $10). The second is between the converter and the muffler under the car. Its on top of the exhaust pipe and nearly impossible to change unless you take apart your exhaust system

Look over the entire engine for any loose parts. Listen to see where the noise is coming from. The noise could be anything from a loose bolt to an engine going bad.

There is a problem with the parking linkage. TAke it to a garage.

I have found using a C clamp is quite helpful. You can slowly increase the pressure until it is retracted. Watch the fluid in the master cylinder as it will likely overflow. Or open the cylinder valve and let it flow out. If you do that, put a tube on it and catch the fluid so it does not run over the parts.

you can make custom hub conversation or use spacer/adapters

As soon as the 2003 Buick Regal change oil light comes on, it is important to do so immediately. Not changing your oil can damage the motor in your car.

It cannot be disabled, but can ge bypassed, search the web there is information on how to do this. It is not overly complicated, but lengthy to explain. Look up Passlock bypass

Remove the rear seat, next remove the rear window plastic sails. They are held in with a push button that will be destroyed so you will need to buy new ones. Remove the three plastic black buttons that hold the rear deck panel that includes the speaker covers. Again these will be useless upon removal so go buy three new ones. Now you can get to the four speakers. You'll need a hex head socket to remove the 16 screws four for each speaker. Disconnect the wires with the factory plug connector. And your ready to put in some cherry vibes. Good Luck.

The 1991 Buick 3.1 liter rod cap torque specification is 90 pounds. The rod bolts should be torqued in 45 pound intervals.

to the left of your brake pedal there should be a little hatch. its behind that

Check the transmsission fluid level May be time for a rebuild

There is a plug under the drivers seat that has come loose reach under and tap it or squeeze it together.

i wiil try to answear your question what 350 engine are you talking about 350 engine for Buick Oldsmobile Chevy and Pontiac will fit.

Answer

Trim moulding is easily removed with a heat gun. A good hair dryer might work, but a heat gun is much hotter and gets the job done faster.

If this is a rubber hose it's your water pump bypass hose.

it is called a bypass tube and to replace it you have to pull the belt tensioner. this is awnsered near the end of buick regal questions.

1. Open hood and locate the light assembly (left or right). On bothsides of the assembly you have a white piece of plastic that slides up and the whole unit comes loose. Make note where the light assembly connects to the car before removing the assembly. 2. Unplug the wire harness so the entire unit can be removed. 3. On the back of the light assembly, remove the round rubber piece for the bulb you want to replace to expose the light socket. 4. Turn the socket counterclockwise (about 90 degrees turn) and pull the entire bulb socket out. 5. Remove the old bulb from the socket by grasping near the base and pulling. 6. Insert the new bulb (in the same direction as the old one). 7. Reinsert the socket into the assembly by aligning the tabs on the socket with the holes in assembly and turn clockwise (about 90 degrees) to relock the socket in place. Then replace the round rubber piece. 8. Reconnect the wire harness and reinstall the white pieces of plastic to hold the assembly in place. Good luck. Should take about 5 minutes to do this.

No the bolt pattern for the jeep is 4 1/2" and the regal 4 3/4"

First, you must have to have some idea of how the belt works... You don't want to put this belt on wrong or you may hurt the car...

BEFORE you get started (i recommend this for ease and convenience, it will also prevent messing up), DRAW A PICTURE of the pulley set up and exactly how the belt goes around these pulleys... Make sure to include which side of the belt is up/down when it goes across the pulley... Now you're ready to get started on the work...

Loosen the tensioning pulley, should be located near the bottom and towards the firewall... The engine is GM's 3800 Series II engine (arguably their best engine for passenger cars)...

If you are messing around turning nuts and bolts trying to figure out which one is the tensioning pulley, STOP, if you can't seem to figure out which one is the tensioning pulley look it up!!! *DO NOT turn nuts and bolts if you do not know what you're doing* If you're having troubles after looking up the schematic of the pulley layout or can't figure it out, STOP! Before you mess up the car and can't drive it, and need to put more money into it to fix something you messed up...

After figuring out the tensioning pulley and getting this loose (Be careful, the tension pulley nut/bolt may not turn "lefty loosey, righty tighty" WRITE down which way the this nut/bolt turned for ease of reassembly...

Take off the old belt.

Put on the new belt EXACTLY how it was on before...

- You may need to loosen the tensioning pulley some more to get the belt on, since the belt is new and tighter...

Tighten up everything, LEAVING the tensioning pulley loose still...

Make sure the belt is on the pulleys and centered correctly

- i.e. not hanging off either side of the pulley, as this may cause the belt to wear improper or fall off while driving.... neither of which is good...

Now while MAINTAINING the belt in the correct position SNUG only SNUG up the tensioning pulley and nut/bolt...

Once again check the belt and pulleys to make sure that it is installed properly...

REVIEW your drawing of the belt/pulley system prior to taking off the old belt...

MAKE SURE they match EXACTLY and that they are both CORRECT!

Now TIGHTEN up EVERYTHING in the serpentine belt system...

DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!! as this may cause more resistance on the pulleys and belt and cause wear on both the mechanical parts of the engine and the belt/pulley system....

When CONFIDENT with the work you have done... Start the car... And check to make sure the belt is operating properly...

SHUT OFF the car....

INSPECT the belt and make sure everything is where it should be and that everything is still tight

MAKE SURE the car is OFF... you may lose a finger or more if you don't

When everything seems good and you are confident in your work take her for a spin and make sure it works good...

Disconnect battery.

Starter is under car, on engine, by radiator.

Unbolt/remove the two wires that are bolted to starter.

Unbolt the two bolts securing starter and your done.

please help with the oil choke light on 81 el camino?

I was looking at my Chilton book from the 70's , at the Buick section and it shows a

diagram for a V6 engine :

firing order ( 1 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 3 - 2 )

the distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE , distributor at front of engine

the marked # 1 position on the distributor cap faces towards the FRONT of the engine

The engine cylinder locations are numbered :

6 - 5

4 - 3

2 - 1

-fan-

Jack up and support.

Remove driver's side wheel.

Remove drive axle (AKA CV Joint, or Half-shaft) spindle nut.

Remove cotter pin and castle nut from lower control arm ball joint. Then use a puller to pull same ball joint out of the bottom of the steering knuckle.

Remove cotter pin and castle nut from outer tie-rod end. Use puller to remove outer tie-rod end from the side of steering knuckle.

You may have a sway bar nut that has to be removed, I can't remember. You will be able to tell if you do because you won't be able to pull the whole assembly out of the way here in aminute if it's in the way.

You already removed the axle nut so put your puller on the end of the axle (at the break rotor) and push the axle back thru the hub (now remove puller).

Now, get a catch pan, put it under the end of the axle where it goes into the transmission (AKA transaxle). use a pry bar and pry the axle out by wedging prybar against transaxle case and putting pressure against inner axle joint housing.

Pop it out.

It's free, get it out and you will need it for the core charge. The axle is about 50.00 at autozone.

Pop it back in transaxle, then push the other end back thru the hub (at the brake rotor end). Install a NEW axle spindle nut and start tightening, this will pull this end of the shaft into the hub. Tighten axle spindle nut to about 150 foot pounds. Very tight but don't kill it :)

Reverse the rest of the procedure and top off trans fluid.

P.S. when u r trying to remove spindle nut at the begining, you will need the correct size socket...ak autozone, maybe a loan-a-tool? also puller might be a loan-a-tool.

Lastly, while removing spindle nut, rotor and axle will want to turn. Put a screwdriver or similar thru the top of the caliper into the vent holes at the edge of the rotor, this will hold it still when presseure is applied.

Good luck

No, this will not work well. Since the lug pattern isn't correct, it's a good bet that the hub size of the new wheels won't be the same, so the wheels will be installed off center on the car, and will hop down the road, damaging the car and the tires. If the hub size is correct, you will have a much better chance at getting the wheels centered, but the lug nuts will 'walk' off the lugs during driving, from not being seated correctly.