Buick Skylark

The front plugs are (relatively) easy, but shoot some WD-40 around all of them and let it sit for a day first. You'll need a universal joint for your wrench for the back plugs. You have to rely on sense of touch for them. They're a royal pain to get to and remove. I actually took mine to a mechanic to replace them and even they had trouble....

I have 245/45 18 on my 02 altima....

Turn key to the left, insert paperclip in small hole next to key. Cylinder will pop out.

1. Disconnect the battery

2. Place a socket wrench in the belt tensioner and turn it up. This lets you slide the belt off of the alternator.

3. The alternator is held on to the engine with four bolts which need to be removed.

4. On the top of the alternator you will see a wire plug. Remove the plug and loose the bolt that is holding it in place. Then simply remove the alternator.

This is pretty easy. I am far from a mechanic but it only took me five minutes to do this.

It's under the steering column, near the brake and says "FUSES" on it.... Try Amazon or eBay for a Chilton's manual for cars in these years. They're probably pretty cheap by now.

If you have replaced the thermostat already, and the radiator is flowing properly, I hate to tell you, but the quad 4 has a nasty reputation of cracking heads around the exhaust seats. Be very careful in getting this repaired; make sure the shop that does it has had experience with this motor.

I stumbled over the log because I was tired and forgot my glasses

This answer is based off knowledge of my '95 skylark, take it with a grain of salt because it could be different. Should still be accurate because GM stereos differ little from the late 80's to mid 90's. (My brothers old '89 Pontiac grand am had the same setup)

I believe it has a double-din car stereo, low wattage. May or may not have a tape deck (depending on factory options and such). Should have 6x9 delco brand paper cone woofers in the back (complete with whizzer cone! lol) and similar 3x5 speakers in the front.

YES!! you can bypass the heater core. I just did this yesterday when my 93 Buick overheated because of a bad thermostat and broke the hose from the heater core. Follow the Big hose leading out from the right side of the radiator. It will lead to where the thermostat is then keep following along the hose that is connected to that and the hose will go behind the metal, inside of the car. Cut this hose right before it goes behind the metal and cut the one right next to it on the left and connect them together. That's it.

It has both.

I think they will. Not 100% sure though.

It could be that the starter pinion drive (also known as the bendix) is worn. If it is grinding and roatating slowly, then the bushings are worn. In either case, you neep to overhaul or replace the starter.

difference between 3 and four speed is, a 3 speed has 3 forward gears. a 4 speed has 4 forward gears

Correction: to remove the alternator,first you have to remove the master cylinder, and take off the wheel guard by the wheel well(maybe 3 plug in screws) so that you can get at the alternator bolt. Once you get the upper and lower bolts off, use something to pry it out with (2x4 works well), then carefully slide it out, tight squeeze but can be done, and there you go. At the most, maybe 2-3 hrs.

Correct correction, don't remove the master cylinder, you have to bleed the brakes and getting to the mounting hardware and removing the brake lines can be disaster. I have been a mechanic for over 30 years. Do this instead;

remove the left wheel-remove the upper ball joint cover, two 10mm nuts cover the castle nut, remove the castle nut. Remove the strut assembly bolt from the lower control arm, that will give you the necessary travel to remove the driveshaft, that's what is really you need to do to remove and drop the alternator out. Now remove the lower mounting bolt from the wishbone from the lower control arm, this will allow more travel to remove the driveshaft. Remove the upper control arm ball joint nut. You have to release the tension of the upper ball joint to the upper control arm, one way is to use an expensive removal tool or thread the castle nut back on the ball joint stud just enough to protect the threads from being damaged. The object here is to pop the ball joint stud out of the control arm, this is when you have to be careful-I used a lead faced hammer or you can use a brass faced hammer, remember the idea here is to protect the threads. It will take a couple of brave licks to free the balljoint stud from the spindle. I also removed the brake hose securing attachment to allow more freedom for the brake hose. Remove the castle nut from the end of the driveshaft, it's gonna take a big socket, be careful to use a punch to get the locking face of the nut away from the groove of the shaft, take your time and move with small hits on the punch.When that is done remove the driveshaft. I will take some prying from the inner half shaft, be careful not to damage any of the soft rubber boots surrounding the CV joints. The left side of the drive shaft is in two pieces, the inner shaft stays put. Swing the spindle assembly toward the rear of the car and that will give you enough clearance to remove the shaft and finagle the alternator out.Remember to get some cotter pins, if you can save the old ones, good. Don't forget to relearn the computer idle speed calibration, I did the first time and had to disconnect the battery and relearn the computer.

left horn Remove the headlamp assembly. In order to gain access to the horn assembly, pull the headlamp assembly to one side. Remove the bolt to the horn bracket through the headlamp cavity. Disconnect the electrical connector

right horn Remove the splash shield from under the fender. Remove the bolt to horn bracket from under the facia. Disconnect the electrical connector

.060

Generally on one end of the throttle plate shaft, opposite the throttle cable side.

Well, the official instructions include taking out the back seat, but what I did to mine is go into the trunk with a pair of pliers and reverse-screw the screws holding in the original speakers and replace them that way. I used #10 screws, lockwashers and nuts to put the new ones in there. I put the screws into the new speakers and then maneuvered them in the holes and made sure all the screws came down into the holes simultaneously. Maybe you can use some rubber cement to keep the screws in the speakers' holes. It's a pain but it beats removing the back seat. (Who designs these things?)

36000

battery will run down and die, may leak

First answer doesn't make sense.... All ac systems no matter what the model have blow off saftey valves either on the compressor and or on the manifold lines near the compressor. So if for some reason high side pressure exceeds the limit and jumps to over 400psi the valve will open venting the freon into the air it will do this until no freon is left in system. Good luck.

Something is broken, bent, collapsed, or out of adjustment.

instructions for replacing air filter on 1989 Buick Skylark 4 cylinder

I think it is. The models are built on the same platform.

4.5 quarts