Buick Skylark

If the voltage level of the battery is low, turning the key to "Start" can cause a further voltage drop and you'll hear the click. Sometimes the low voltage condition will be such that the starter is engaged, drops voltage below a threshold, the solenoid disengages because of low voltage condition then the voltage comes back up enough to re-engage the solenoid and it clicks again. In either case, if you have a volt-meter check the voltage of the battery while someone attempts to start the engine. If the voltage stays anywhere near 12 Volts, check both battery terminal connections. If either is dirty you may just need to clean the contacts. If the battery voltage is down near 7 or 8 Volts when you try to start the vehicle your battery voltage is too low to do much good. The battery COULD be bad or the alternator may just not be charging. Don't just replace the battery until you are able to determine if it's a battery or alternator problem. With the same volt meter, check the battery voltage when the engine is running. The alternator SHOULD bring the battery voltage up to 13.5 volts (or near enough) and if it doesn't, you probably have a charging problem. In either case, have a reputable parts store, like Checker Auto, Kragen Auto, Auto Zone or Pep Boys check the charging system and the battery to find out what's wrong. In some cases the starter can be faulty and drawing too much current but they can check that too.

have you tried your reverse band. my 93 beretta has no reverse and that's what is wrong with it.have you tried your reverse band. my 93 beretta has no reverse and that's what is wrong with it.

70 ft/lbs

YES

No!

You are going to have to look at the underhood emissions sticker. I'm not positive if there is one or not, but most cars from this time period have an underhood emissions sticker that tells you what the spark plug gap, ignition timing, and idle speed should be. Attached to the sticker should be a drawing of how the vaccum lins are routed. If you cannot find this under the hood, you may have to get a service manual for the car. The factory service manual is always the best, but I believe Haynes manuals also have the vacuum hose routing listed. You can get Haynes manuals at auto parts stores like Auto Zone. I am not sure what vacuum control unit you mean, but I assume you mean the vapor canister, which controls evaporative emissions (i.e. gasoline that has vaporized). There should be one line going to the gas tank, and another line going to the top of the carburetor (the bowl vent line). These two hoses are relatively large. There should be a third, smaller vacuum hose hooked up to PORTED vacuum on the carburetor. Ported vacuum means vacuum that is present only when the throttle is depressed, as opposed to manifold vacuum which is present whenever the engine is running. You will have to figure out which port on the carburetor is for ported vacuum and which is for manifold vacuum. One way to do this is by using a vacuum gauge. It is possible that there is a fourth hose, (small hose) which is for manifold vacuum. It is unclear to me why this would be needed in addition to the other three, but I have seen canisters set up this way sometimes.

Ignition what? Switch? Coil?

It's really no more difficult than removing the retaining screws from the inside of the door and taking off the escutcheon plate. After you take that off, there's another retaining nut that comes off and you can just take the mirror out then. The only difference between manual and electric mirrors is that there's an electrical connector you can disconnect. It's very easy.

Newton-Meters

You may be able to get a diagram of the fuse box from a GM dealer's parts dept. or service center.

old!

The firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2 the dist turns clockwise and #1 is just to the right of center in front when looking from the front of the car.

many of general motors engines are interchangeable, if the transmission was not replaced, then its a matter of possibly relocating motor mounts, and if 3300 s the original motor you shouldn't run into any clearance problems

Adjust or replace the back up light switch, located somewhere next to the shift lever.

It's behind the fuel tank near the bumper.

Try disconnecting your negative battery cable for a few minutes then put it back on, sometimes the lighting circuit gets confused, mine did, removing power from it may reset whatever is confused. That has worked for me with my 1995 Skylark.

As a last resort you can remove the headlight circuit breaker or fuse. You would have to put it back in when you drive at night of course.

milk cows

all doam lights have one power sauce,but each door,boot ect.are all earthed.most probs .though r fuse blown caused by porly fitting festoon globe to long -short.chesk for power first then all earths. bazza.

From a small pipe connected from the top of the engine to a radiator hose.

I had the same problem with my 90 buick century, Replacing the temperature sensor did the trick, it is located above and behind the water pump.

Anything with less torque; or almost everything.

There can be two reasons for this problem:

1. The magnetic reed switch has gone bad. (this part goes up from the connector at the bottom of the tank into a column molded into the plastic tank.)

2. The tank interior has gotten clogged with rust or debris and the magnetic float isn't moving with the level.

Take the reed switch out and test it with an ohmmeter. The ohms should go from 0 to infinite as a magnet is moved past the switch.

It might be easier to go into the trunk with a pair of pliers and twist up on the screws and remove them that way. I have a 1995 Skylark and did that with mine. It wasn't too hard to do but it's a lot easier than taking out the back seat. If you still want to take the back seat out, try Amazon.com and get an old Chilton's manual for Buicks in these years.

One.