Car Heaters

The blower motor can stop for several reasons.

1 Fuse

2 Relay

3 Switches

4 Resistor Pack

5 Motor

If you can get 1 (Usually fastest) or more speeds then suspect the Resistor pack.

Nothing at all resulted in it being the motor on ours (£65 from PMA) but check the fuse first and replace if necessary

The easiest way to find out is to remove the glove box you can then reach the plug on the motor (Red & Black wires). Bend down in the footwell and look up and to the centre of the car, plug is behind crossmember but easy to reach and remove.

Test the wiring with a volt meter or test lamp if everything else is ok you will get around 12.1 volts when switch is in positions '1 to 4' and nothing when on '0'.

You can also see and feel the resistor pack by removing the trim around the electronic dash - I put a small digital camera in there and then had a look at the pictures on the computer. When the resistors fail they very very often damage the plug and wiring (Renault supply an upgraded part and loom). It is possible to replace it through the opening but you need to yank on the motor wiring to get some slack and very small hands.

I changed my motor ok by removing all the lower facias and then undoing the top facia and moving it into the car resting it on top of the steering wheel (Adjusted fully towards you and fully down). There are lots of screws and wires that need disconnecting so it's best to use a Haynes Manual but ignore removing the steering wheel part.

If your car is getting old, maybe you should book it in the local repair garage for a check-up to se if everything is ok.

An automobile's heater that blows only cold air could either be a faulty thermostat or, more likely, a faulty heater core. A trip to a mechanic or shop that specializes in radiator and cooling system repair should be able to diagnose and repair any problems.

check belt maybe slipping

Be sure the coolant level is full

An oxygen sensor does not control heat. It sends info to the computer about oxygen levels in the exhaust to adjust fuel injection amounts.

Could be,

a bad blower motor,

a blown fuse,

a bad resistor,

a bad switch,

damaged wiring,

Faulty thermostat.

Plugged heater core.

Temp blend door malfunction.

things don't work is the obvious answer.

Antifreeze fumes can be toxic. Breathing them can cause health problems. If your vehicle is leaking coolant, especially from the heater core use care and repair the leak as soon as possible.

SIMILARITY-

Both are a form of energy.

DIFFRENCES-

Heat increase the temperature of a body whereas light does not.

Light enables us to see things around us. Heat does nothing of that sort.

Your thermostat is stuck in the open position. Replace the thermostat and no more problems. Quick fix and only costs about 20 dollars.

Behind the glove box or compartment.

You will need to change your thermostat, as it is been stuck open. The thermostat is the piece that control the quantity of cooling fluid that goes to the radiator, if its stuck open all your fluid is going to be cooled by ambiant air on the radiator, and the engine will get colder then its operating temperature. If it close properly it will force the coolant to be cooled by the heater radiator, which transfer the heat to the air in your heater system. The piece itself is like 10$ or less, but the installation can be tricky if your not mechanicly inclined.

The Heater core is difficult to replace on the RAM since it is buried in the plenum box. The box has a convenient door panel that you can open to remove and replace the core. The catch is that the convenient door is on the back of the box and you have to remove the heater box to get to it. This involves removing the steering wheel, steering column, complete dash panel, evacuating the AC, draining the radiator, and finally removing the heater box. Once you have the box out(8-12hrs), the core is simple to replace.

You want to be sure that the core is the problem before you undertake this process. If there is a strong smell of antifreeze in the cab or a puddle of coolant on the passenger side floor, the diagnosis is easy.

Check that the radiator is full, not the overflow tank, the radiator. On a cold engine you can remove the radiator cap and check the level. It should be full. If there is air in the system it will affect cab heating and engine cooling.

Another good check is to feel the two heater hoses going into the firewall from a cold start. The hoses should warm up at about the same rate and get uncomfortably hot-close to radiator temperature.

If the core appears to be OK, the next concern is with the blend doors that divert air through the heater core. This is a common failure on the RAM. Check heatertreater.net for an explanation of the operation of the system and a fix for the common problems. The RAM has four different DC servo motor controlled air flow doors that are susceptible to failure and all of these need to be checked by either observing the symptoms of failure or reading the codes. The problems are easy to fix with the HeaterTreater kits, but the OEM dealer fix requires removing the plenum box as described above. It is a costly repair if you take it back to the dealer and are not under warranty.

If equipped with a delco loc 2 or theftlock audio system be sure the lockout feature is turned off before disconnecting battery cable. # Disconnect the negative battery cable # drain the cooling system # Disconnect the heater hoses at the heater core inlet and outlet on the engine side of the firewall and plug the open fittings. # From the inside of the car,remove the lower right dash insulator panel and the glove box # Disconnect the ducts fromthe heater cover # Remove the instrument panel from passanger compartment # Remove the heater core cover # Remove the heater core clamp bolts and clamps then slide the heater core out carefully

Could be several reasons some of which may be your low on coolant or a stuck open thermostat or a plugged up heater core (from old Dex Cool) or a heater blend door malfunction.

Its probably your air intake.... check under the hood and see if it runs to the inside of your passenger side fender.... mine does and it sounds like the noise your describing

Usually when a car makes squealing sound after accelerating with the heater on, the serpentine belt is a little loose. It likely needs adjusting by a professional.

It could be one of many reasons... water pump, thermostat, cooling system to name a few. I had no heat in my car during a very cold spell and had the mechanics do a reverse system flush. (Whatever the heck that is.) But it seemed to work on my car.

Check the fuse.

Check the blower speed resistor.

Check the blower speed control switch.

The heater may not be on - but the fan still blows air through the vents when they're open !

Check your antifreeze or cooling level this happened to me.

If it's the one in the engine bay you talking about, there is one that connects to the heater tap on joint to the heater hose.

More than likely the thermostat is stuck open. Drain the cooling system, replace the thermostat, and install fresh coolant.

Quite likely your resistor is partial broken. It is usually a little rectangular ceramic looking unit inside or close to your blower motor in the blower housing, sometimes they are a little tricky to find. More than likely it will look cracked but is still holding together at this point, it can only get a little worse (as in completely break and no blower). They just wear out under normal use in modern vehicles and frequently need to be replaced from anywheres from about 4-7 years, at least that's what it's been in my vehicles.