Car Shaking Problems

Every night before bed, get on shakes and fidget go to the city guard and select ten hours. when you get back on the next day, harvest your money.

tire out of balance or bent wheel or bent tie rod and some times stablelizer shock hope this helps

Because the front rotors are warped. You might want to replace the rotors or resurface it.

Yes they can. It can also be a vacuum leak, or defective idle control valve.

The cause of engine stutter could lead to several things. Fuel, air and spark.

But first connect your vehicle to a computer scanner to make sure it is not a faulty sensor causing all the problems.

Most of the time, a stuttering engine is due to something wrong with the fuel system. I.E.-- Fuel pump, filter, fuel pressure regulator or a short or open on a fuel injector.

Check vacuum using a vacuum gauge. And while you are checking the wires and plugs you might as well do a compression test as well.

You must also check the spark. Is your ignition coil good? how old is it? how are the conditions of the wires (outside and connecting ends) Many times a spark plug wire will look fine and new until you touch it and it gives you the shock of your life. Spark plugs should also be checked. While checking the spark plugs

do compression test. Low compression as well as a damaged harmonic balancer can cause stutter as well.

Does it stop stuttering when you accelerate. 9/10 times it is the fuel.

So remember to do it in this order so you can save time and money.

1-scanner

2-vacuum

3-fuel pressure etc...

4- wire connections as well as plugs.

There aren't very many manufacturers of shocks and struts. With the exception of specific features, they're pretty much all the same.

In general, it's best to install the same type of shock or strut that was provided by the original vehicle manufacturer.

A lot of places will give you a sales pitch about the advantages of their shock or strut, but the reality is, the engineers who designed the vehicle wanted to provide the vehicle with good handling and a smooth ride. Anything you do that changes the original design will detract from the original performance.

Shocks and struts are attempts to control what is called the "Unsprung Weight", meaning the part of the vehicle that is BEFORE the springs and closely follows the road. Anyone who promises anything more should be viewed with suspicion since they obviously don't know what they're talking about.

Several problem:

Misfires(check spark plugs and/or coil)

Vacuum leak

Idle control sensor or throttle body

Please check it with OBD reader,so you can find out the error code.

Autozone will check it for you for free.

The most common cause to changes in steering feel are related to your tires. The first thing to do is check all 4 tires visually for uneven wear, and check their pressure.

Overinflated tires can make your steering feel light. Any uneven wear to your tires, or uneven pressure can make your steering feel strange. The other main thing it could be is your power steering. The pump bypass may not be working properly, and your power-steering could be causing this light feel.

The car vill vibrate because the A/C system uses a compressor that runs off the engine's pulley system. The compressor is quite hard to turn and as such will actually use a few extra horsepower to run it, this results in a drop of the rpm from idle. Depending on your car, most petrol engines idle at approximately 800 - 900 rpm. When the A/C is activated, the compressor's cluth will engage and put extra load on the engine, thereby lowering the rpm. When an engine's rpm drops below about 700 - 800 rpm, the car will vibrate because of the balance of the pistons and crankshaft in the bottom end of the engine thus creating a vibrating effect. Engine's are balance using counterweights on the crankshaft and are set at a good balance with engine rpm being about 800. I hope this has helped you. rest assured, there is nothing wrong with your car and you will never resolve it as long as you have the A/C turned on.

Replace there are no adjustments.

In general, warped brake rotors will cause a vehicle to shake when the brakes are applied. If the problem is severe, it will also have some impact on the ability of the driver to control the car when braking. If a car shudders or shakes when the brakes are applied but is otherwise smooth when driven, the brakes are a most logical cause. Use the link to the related question below to help you decide what to do if you suspect a warped brake rotor.

This is normally caused by warped rotors. They will have to be replaced or resurfaced if possible. When you reinstall the wheels make sure to torque the lug nuts correctly as over-tightning them will warp the rotors.

Try having your front suspension aligned. Check your ignition system for misfiring as well.

Check the tire balance. Also check the tie rod ends and ball joints for wear. These are the most common places to start.

The car "jerks". Pulls to one side or vibrates? Vibration when applying brakes is most likely warped rotors. Another cause could be loose caliper bolts. If the car is pulling it may be a caliper sticking or worn suspenion/steering parts.

* A shudder or vibration when accelerating. * Excessive play in either the inboard or outboard joints can sometimes cause this, but the most likely cause is a worn inboard plunge joint. These kinds of vibrations can also be caused by a bad intermediate shaft bearing on transaxles with equal length halfshafts. On FWD vehicles with transverse-mounted engines, this kind of vibration can also be caused by loose or deteriorated engine/transaxle mounts. For this reason, the rubber bushings in the upper "torque strap" or "dog bone" on these engines should also be inspected to rule out this possibility.

What warning? You could try the handbook or asking at the nearest Toyota dealer.

Tires might be 'flat spotting', more likely in cold weather. The part of the tire that is on the road when parked flattens out. Low tire air pressure makes this more likely as do very old tires (not worn out). If this is the case the flat spots go away after driving a while (when they warm up)

If its a rear wheel drive car (if its got a drive shaft), the u-joints in the drive shaft might be binding and loosen after the warm up a bit. If so, the joints need replaced

That depends on the car. Some vehicles with points in the distributor needed a tune-up every 10,000 miles. Solid state ignitions have changed that number and many of the GM vehicles are advertising that you don't need your first tune-up for 100,000 miles. Refer to the owners manual for the recommended interval between tune-ups.

NO.

The brake rotors on a car or truck are turned on a lathe. Few of us have a lathe like this in our garage, but lots of shops have this piece of gear. Additionally, there are "jobbers" who have a lathe in a van that can come to your place. (The mobile brake specialist also has pads, shoes and the like, and can turn drums as well as rotors.) Note that a mobile service may or may not do the work of removing the rotors and then replacing all the parts to complete your brake job. There are also shops that have a lathe that will turn a rotor without the necessity of removing it from the vehicle, by the way.

In some cases of advanced wear, the brake rotors will end up too "thin" after being turned, and cannot be used again. In this case, new (or reconditioned) rotors will have to be installed on the vehicle. A shop has a special caliper to determine if the rotor will still have enough "meat" on it (still be thick enough) to be resurfaced and trued, and then used once more. Let's touch on the lathe and then wrap up.

A lathe is a device that turns a workpiece, in this case, the brake rotor, and a tool rest of some kind holds a sharp tool against the turning rotor to remove material. The lathe is used to remove the outer layer of material on the rotor to provide a fresh surface for the brake pads to grip on. The rotor is also trued in this process, and the finished rotor will be very flat on a plane perpendicular to the axis of rotation.

Unless you're really good with a wrench, it is best to let a professional shop do this work. If you mess up a tune up, your car won't run well (if at all). But if you mess up a brake job, you might easily find yourself in an accident. Think this through and get some estimates before you consider pulling your rotors and hauling them in to get turned. You may not be able to get things back together correctly to finish the job.

Its normal for most manual cars the clutch is basically shifting gears in the engine but if you are accelrating shifting gears higher it could jerk a little bit so it can lock the gear and preset the engine to the desired gear

Now if this is an automatic here you are not hitting the brake pedal fully

Transmission fluid is low or empty

Or it can be just old so it can jerk a bit to get into gear... however it is potentially bad for an automatic car because it has more parts and the thing it would do the most harm to is the gearbox.

For our 2000 ford windstar it's $210 for all four.

You more than likely bent the wheel or you threw a weight off and the tire is out of balance. Have your tires balanced. They will know if you bent the wheel.

Normally tire out of balance or bent wheel.