Car Shaking Problems

The intake manifold gasket is located between the manifold and the engine block, and prevents leaks between the two surfaces. Follow the below steps to replace the intake manifold gasket on 2003 Ford Ranger.

1) Disconnect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery and remove all hardware and wiring that connects to the intake manifold. Now disconnect the throttle position sensor and the EGR valve, located adjacent to the intake manifold.

2) Remove the fuel lines from their respective connections to the fuel injectors. Plug the fuel lines to minimize fuel spilling. Disconnect the intake manifold runner control cable from the manifold.

3) Label the spark plug wires and pull from the boot to remove from their corresponding spark plugs. The spark plug wires must later be connected to the same plugs in order for the cylinders to fire in the correct order.

4) Remove the bolts that hold the intake manifold to the engine block, and remove the manifold. Pry the intake manifold gasket from the block with a flat-head screwdriver. Clean the top mating edge of the engine block thoroughly. The surface where the new intake manifold gasket will rest must be smooth and free of debris.

5) Apply sealant to the gasket surfaces and place it on the mating edge of the engine block. Position the new intake manifold so that it aligns exactly with the cylinder flanges of the engine block. Bolt the intake manifold to the engine block. Tighten the bolts to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

6) Reconnect the spark plug wires with their corresponding spark plugs. Pull the boots over the spark plugs. Replace all removed parts in their original positions. Reattach all of the fuel lines to the fuel rails and fuel injectors. Reconnect all electrical wiring to its respective part.

7) Connect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery. Start the engine and let it idle for about ten minutes. Check for leaks around the new intake manifold gasket.

Pros of Ceramic:

- In general, they last longer than semi-metallic

- They can take slightly more abuse

- They leave minimal brake dust, and the dust that is left is less noticeable-a nice complement to chrome and alloy wheels.

Cons of Ceramic:

- Ceramic brakes need to warm up a little before they attain the grip of semi-metallic pads.

- They're more expensive-sometimes considerably more. However, some brands sell competitively-priced ceramic pads.

Pros of Semi-Metallic:

- Better grip than ceramic when cold

- Often less expensive than ceramic

Cons of Semi-Metallic

- Shorter life

- Brake dust is much more apparent

I've used both. I've been buying semi-metallic for a while, but that's because they have a lifetime warranty, so I don't pay for replacements. I just put my chrome wheels on for the summer. I'm thinking of switching to ceramic. Just remember you're going to have to brake slightly harder or earlier until those puppies get hot. The difference is not extremely noticeable in performance. If you have chrome rims you want to take care of, go with ceramic. If you want more life out of your pads, go with ceramic. If you don't want to pay as much, go with semi-metallic.

Earlier ceramic brake pads are supposed to be the ones that have to heat up before they grip as well as semi-metallic. Supposedly some recent ceramic pads don't have this problem. You'll need to do some research to find out which is which.

Also, some ceramic brake pads wear out rotors faster than organic and some semi-metallic pads, so if you're going to install ceramic pads, and if your current rotors are approaching their minimal thickness, it's best to replace the rotors with tougher ones designed for use with ceramic pads, that won't wear out as fast. However, if your current rotors are in good shape, just keep them in place until it's time to replace them, then replace them with ones designed to wear less with ceramic pads.

++ Real Answer ++

Ceramic formula brake pads use ceramic compounds and copper fibers in place of the semi-metallic pad's steel fibers. This allows the ceramic pads to handle high brake temperatures with less heat fade, provide faster recovery after the stop, and generate less dust and wear on both the pads and rotors. And from a comfort standpoint, ceramic compounds provide much quieter braking.

Another characteristic that makes ceramic materials attractive is the absence of noticeable dust. All brake pads produce dust as they wear. The ingredients in ceramic compounds produce a light colored dust that is much less noticeable and less likely to stick to the wheels. Consequently, wheels and tires maintain a cleaner appearance longer.

Ceramic pads meet or exceed all original equipment standards for durability, stopping distance and noise. According to durability tests, ceramic compounds extend brake life compared to most other semi-metallic and organic materials and outlast other premium pad materials by a significant margin - with no sacrifice in noise control, pad life or braking performance.

The cam sensor is a flat plastic thing with a coil of wire in it that tells the computer what position the camshaft is in.

The shaft is a big rod with eccentrics on it also known as a bumpstick which pushes the engine valves open. It is the second largest rotating part in the engine. Do not break it.

Its either timing or fuel intake problem.

Maybe its your motor mounts.

check plugs,check resistance in your wires cap,rotor mounts to motor,trans.

fluids,lift it up rear wheels up

and look under it while its in drive shift it in/out of drive

be carefull!

Jerk...where do you feel it...in the steering wheel? does it seem like it's going faster then slower, or up and down.... in order, it could be ALIGNMENT/SHOCKS/MOUNTS,or TRANSMISSION SLIPPING, or ENGINE SURGING/Tune related.... a good book will help with symptom identification.. everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the local library should have a PROFESSIONAL SHOP manual available in the reference section--make copies of the right info and read up..you'll be a pro in no time ...good luck:)

Maybe needs front end allignment. I had that exact issue and it turned out to be the tie-rod ends.

You have a misfire. Check the coil packs. I'm guessing this is when you're looking at the motor with the car idling. It's normal to see SOME shake, but not a whole lot. If it's really shaking like mad, it means that It's running badly and needs a tune up right away, or you could have a broken motor mount and/or broken transmission mount. I'd have a mechanic take a look as soon as I could. FriPilot

you have bubbles in the tires you need to get a wheel balance 1st and 2nd wheel allignment if it still plays up or the engine is loose / old = more expsensive

Most likely they are engine mounts. As for the loud engine, check the exhaust.

Buy a new car.

could be a lot of things, you can check for a loose wheel bearing or suspension component, but first i would have my tires checked for a bad belt or bubble, and if they are ok have them rotated and balanced, then go from there

* Worn components. (shocks, struts, ball joints, tie rod ends) * Out of balance wheel/tire. * Bent wheel

You probably need ignition work, but here's a test--spray WD40 on the distributor cap and plug wires and see if things improve.

that depends on the makeup of the small pieces of metal. Ferrous metals can be removed by using a magnetic oil drain plug. A magnetic oil drain plug can be difficult to find, but they will trap ferrous metal.

because it will shake your car to death Because neither the new tire or your old rim are perfectly balanced by themselves.

there are usually no symptoms for oxygen sensors if there lean or something. But i f other sensors fail like crankshaft sensor of MAF sensor u will notice drivability problems

Sometimes you will get a check engine light.

If it's a 4 cylinder engine, that's pretty normal. AC compressors take a little extra torque to operate and small engines just need to work a little harder when the AC comes on. There SHOULD be a little bit of an idle speed increase to compensate for the AC, but sometimes the computer, relay or whatever mechanism was used by the vehicle manufacturer, is adjusted wrong. If it's just a minor annoyance, ignore it. It certainly doesn't cause any real problem. If it's really bothering you, you might need to take it to a shop.

mine does it too, i attribute it to the fact that the vibrations of the engine just shake the whole car, seeing how the steering wheel isn't attached by much, it'll shake, kinda like the way your rear view mirror will shake with alot of bass, vIbRaTiOnS

You can have worn universal joints, wear or low oil in transfer case or differential(s),transmission low on fluid or needs band adjustment. Seems to be one of these problems along drive train.

Runnibg rich usually.

Could be a number of reasons: Worn-out shocks, wheels out of balance, worn-out tires (or all of the above)

If you're sure it's the water pump that's making the noise, just replace it. It will leak soon and you may be in a bad place when that happens.

You should never let your engine run low on coolant since that can result in some serious damage.

BTW, noise can also come from idler pulley's or the alternator so make sure it's the pump before you replace it.

its not the steering stabilizer, i bet its the intermediate steering shaft. they had a lot of problems with that part. feels like someone is banging your steering components around with a broom stick, right?