Car Stereos and Speakers

i have the old school punch 800a2 and i also

have 800a4 and they both are decent amps

but the 800a2 is better for a two subwoofer

setup..

In my experience, one wire will have little ridges or ribs along its' entire length. The other one will be smooth. Not sure which one is supposed to be positive or negative, but you can just assign one wire positive and the other negative. Just don't mix them up and you'll be able to tell which one is which at either end of the pair of wires. Hope this helps.:)

probably something inside. but first check to see if you have your remote wire connect to a power source of some sort. and that your negative is grounded to something on the car that is indeed grounded. and check to make sure that your power wire is fully connected and that your power fuse is not burnt out.

Car stereos are designed for 4-8 ohms loads unbridged (8 ohms bridged). So wire it for 4 ohms. If you use a separate amp for the speaker then refer to the amp's documentation - most are designed to operate with standard 4 ohms unbridged and may also have provision for 2 ohms unbridged (or 4 ohms bridged).

Turn the deck off and hold the function button for 3 seconds and the clock should come up.

more power is louder bigger speaker is better quality

frequency of the carrier is varied in accordance to the message signal in FM.

Fm receivers are less complex.

in Fm lower frequencies produce variation to the modulation index.

phase of the carrier is varied in accordance to the message signal in PM.

Pm receivers require proper synchronization so it is complex. Modulation index is independent of audio frequency

blue remote,orange + live, black -neg,

ford usually uses 6" or 5"x7"

Please be more specific when asking a quesiton like model/year. Most of the time its simply removing screws and the panel should slide off either up or down. Many times screws are hidden underneath some weather stripping or being panels where you have to lightly pry off with a screwdriver.

remotes.com has a replacement for $34.00

u need a head unit removal key that came with your stereo and insert those into each side of the unit and pull out

red /orange power /memory black earth blue /white strip power areal ,solid white speaker positive ,white /black strip speaker lnegative )and 3 sets are other speakers as well so 4 speakers 8 wires solid and stripped

the front speakers are 4"x6". the rear speakers are 6"x9"

This answer is based off knowledge of my '95 skylark, take it with a grain of salt because it could be different. Should still be accurate because GM stereos differ little from the late 80's to mid 90's. (My brothers old '89 Pontiac grand am had the same setup)

I believe it has a double-din car stereo, low wattage. May or may not have a tape deck (depending on factory options and such). Should have 6x9 delco brand paper cone woofers in the back (complete with whizzer cone! lol) and similar 3x5 speakers in the front.

the Clock is probably wired to the ignition and power is turned off every time you turn off the Car there fore you have to reset the clock.

There are a lot of quality brands in car stereos. A couple of good ones are: Autotek "MM Series", Pioneer TS-W5000SPL, Kicker "KX/SX Series" (A) "L5/L7" (SW) "SS Series", and American Bass.

The same way you decrease the resistance of anything else ... by providing more parallel current paths. That means running more conductors, and increasing the surface area of contact between your ground system and the earth.

But let me ask you a couple of questions in return:

1). Since the lightning current already flowed through a couple thousand feet of air before it reached your house, do you really think it will notice whether you have 1 ohm or 2 ohms or 5 ohms in the rest of its path to ground ?

2). Aircraft have really good systems in place to protect their avionics and communications from lightning. What do you suppose is the resistance of their systems to ground when they're in flight ?

Just asking.

Maybe there are other things about the grounding system that are more important, and have a greater bearing on the quality of your protection, than a few DC ohms in the path.

It's a borderline setup even in a best case scenario.

I couldn't find a lot of specifics on the amp. It is a 1000W rated amp, but I couldn't find if that is peak or RMS. I also couldn't find out at what impedance that 1000W is being generated.

Even if we assume the "best case" scenario of the amp being 1000W RMS @ 4ohms. That means it SHOULD be capable of 2000W @ 2ohms. If you set those speakers up in parallel they will require 1600W @ 2 ohms. Admittedly, initially that looks good, the amp has more power than the speakers are demanding - but not by much. My rule of thumb is that an amp should be AT LEAST 30% more powerful than the speaker(s) it's connected to. In this setup it is only 25% more powerful, and that's the BEST CASE scenario.

IF that 1000W rating is PEAK, then it's RMS is approximately 500W @ 4 ohms (and therefore about 1000W @ 2 ohms). In a parallel setup, those speakers will need 1600W @ 2 ohms. In that configuration you've UNDERPOWERED the speakers by over 30%. That amp will put out so much distortion it'll kill those speakers in no time.

In conclusion, I wouldn't personally recommend that equipment pairing to a customer. It's too borderline for my liking, it's safety margin isn't large enough.

On the other hand, many installers feel quite confident recommending an equal pairing. "100W of speaker needs 100W of amp". Since you exceed that by 25% in the best case scenario, many would say it's fine.

You'll have to find out the RMS and impedance figures and go from there.

Just did this last night while replaceing stock speakers. There are 2-bolts that hold the door panel on. 1St bolt bottom hinge side 2Nd bolt between door handle. Remove bolts, lift up on entire door panel, disconect light & window wire harnesses (clip style use flathead screwdriver), then use Allen wrench or appropreiate Allen driver to remove all 4 speaker bolts. To install repeat the same order backwards. Importanat...Be sure your new speaker has enough clearance between window & speaker magnet. Test your window slowly to see if window clears new speaker. Speakers/mids are 5-1/2 inch 140mm. If your window does not clear new speaker/mids then make spacers/washers on 4 mounting bolts between the speaker and the door. I went with the Rockford Fosgate T1625 set up with mids, tweets & crossovers. Sound awesome. Hope this helps.

with only one coil hooked up, a dual voice coil speaker will suffer a loss in reference efficiency of about 3dB (only half the coil windings are being energized) as well as a significant shift in its Thiele/Small parameters. This renders any enclosure calculations inaccurate unless you remeasure the speakers parameters with only one coil hooked up. Failure to account for the different parameters of a dual voice coil speaker with only one coil powered can result in very poor performance.

You must get the serial # off the back of the radio and the dealer can provide the code with this #. Look in your owners manual and you may find the code written down somewhere. No one can tell you the code as they are different on different cars. Before you go ripping the stereo out to find the serial # on the back, call the dealership where you first purchased the vehicle. (Or where it was first sold.) Their service department may be able to look up the serial # and radio code based on your VIN. Handy Tip: After running back to my dealer 2-3 times for the code, I just added my radio code into my cell phone as a speed dial for "radio." I figure my cell phone is more likely to be on me when my battery dies than the nifty wallet card that Honda gave me.

YES it does have one in the trunk

I need the model name to tell you. There isn't just one password for every pioneer machine.