Chevy Astro

I had same problem. Bought a used distributor from a boneyard and it fired right up.

I am finding that astro vans are very likely to bend the rear end housing. I am fixing mine for the second time now. The axle housing bends and then puts the carier bearings in a bind. also check the outer ends of the axle shafts for bearing wear. Replace the shafts if you see any pitting or galling. Good luck.

Some Astro models have a switch on the door panel, right next to the window swithes that is a child-lock system for the rear doors. Look closely at the power window switch panel. If there is a rocker switch - the kind where one side comes up when you press the other side down - that has a little picture of a lock on it. Sounds like your problem. Good luck - RG open the speaker cover and remove speaker (if riveted, drill out rivet) reach inside and pull down on latch rod. reinstall speakers with screws. I had small plastic retainer that held rod to actuator break. Only one side would release. Dealer removed rear window trim, put rod back and replaced clip. This was on the "Hatch door" on model with Dutch doors. This sounds like your problem. To remove window trim, the pull handle on the inside must be removed first, then some of the screws along bottom and sides. Not necessary to remove completely if you are careful. Pull out trim so you can see down to actuator and rehook rod/replace clip.

check the wiring behind the switch...they corrode

A replacement fuel tank is 27 gallons, so a couple of gallons less should fill it up.

If you talking about were the key goes into the Ignition then try this. I have a 1991 aerostar. Disconnect your battery. Then remove the screws holding the plastic steering wheel cover. then by looking at the bottom of the steering wheel near the ignition you should see a little button (or what looks like a hole) With the key in the ignition push this button/hole and pull on the ignition (not Majorly hard) Slowly turn the key and it should come out easaly when it is in the on position.

if you are refering to the sensor for the fuel gauge, it is in the fuel tank with the fuel pump.

My mechanic, who I have a great deal of respect and faith in, tells me that he cannot find a replacement mirror (there are actually several models in this line) and that the entire assembly must be replaced for $3-400.

Remove the intake manifold retaining bolts from your 1996 Chevy Astro Van. Remove the manifold gasket and clean the surface. Reverse the process to install the new intake manifold gasket.

First thing i would check would be the oil pressure sender. it is right above the oil filter just to the right.. I am about to replace mine today because of the same problem you are having. It is inexpensive to buy i think like 25 dollars at the most..

sliding door want open

89000 miles is their a way to open the sliding door when it will not open on the passenger door frame or housing is 2 rubber plugs i remove them i can see what look like 2 bolts with holes in them is their away to open the sliding door with them or any other way

Square switch to the left of the steering wheel.

vacume line to the valve has broke off from manifold vac that goes to the switch

Fuel pumps for Astro vans are located in the fuel tank. There is a connector that goes to that fuel pump that can come loose even on new fuel pumps. You need to really push the connector as far down as it can go and make sure that the connector will not come loose after you put the gas tank back on. You can also check to see if the fuel pump is pumping by disconnecting the fuel filter (protect your eyes as gas can really gush out when you turn the ignition on). If fuel is gushes out of the disconnected outlet of the fuel filter, then the next place to check is the fuel pressure regulator that regulates the fuel pressure to the fuel injectors.

The Blower motor is under the hood, passenger side. It has a purple wire attached.

Follow the wire from your gauge and you'll find it's grounded at some point, this is the only reason a gauge will peg. (This is also a great way of testing any gauge, ground it and if the gauge pegs it's good, if it doesn't it's bad)

the pump is in side the fule tank drop tank replace pump get a astro van manual

I don't know excatly, But Iam pretty sure that Chevy put's the "Icm" in the distributor or on the coil pack. Your vehical however might not have a ignition module the "Power train control module"(pcm) in some vehical's control's spark timing.

Mine is located under the driver's seat.

Sometimes when a serpentine belt squeals it's because it is too worn or lose to grip the pulleys properly. It could also just be that the tension needs to be adjusted. If the belt is getting worn out, it's best to replace it before you get stranded.

The G20 conversion van's main fuse box is beneath the dash board on the left of the steering column. You can view it if you bend down and look under the dash to the firewall.

The power mirrors fuse will be the number nine fuse. The radio fuse will be the number 12 fuse. Both fuses can be found in the fuse box.

check for low fuel pressure (its critical) with guage on schraeder valve on fuel pipe on rear of engine in cab drivers side , should be around 55psi

There are complete pictures for the removal of the door panel so you can access the speakers at www.dynamat.com go to the "gallery" then down to 2000 Toyota Tacoma at the bottom of the page (Company vehicles and projects). I installed Dynamat on the inside doors mostly following these pictures--and the speakers need to come out to do this installation. I recommend the purchase of a special tool (available at Crutchfield for pulling the door panel and avoiding damage). $9.99 S&G Tool Aid 87650 Door Trim and Panel Removal Tool Item #18187650 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5nxyTEUSCJE/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=18187650&g=764&search=panel There are some tricks. (keep chanting, if the guy at Best Buy can do it in 15 minutes... so can I!) 1. Unscrew everything that you can find on the door panel (handles, door opener assembly). Remove the window crank if you have one (see 3). Use the panel removal tool to gently lift all the internal connection pins straight out. (I put a piece of construction paper around the end of it to avoid scratching any paint). There are one or two visible panel pins, the rest are internal. To remove the visible pins without damaging them, release their grip by pushing the center portion all the way in with a pen or pencil. The pin will release. Be careful when you reset the pins they can break! 2. Pull the door opener assembly thru the door panel. It does require some fine manipulation to pull it thru the door panel. 3. If you have window cranks... gently look under the window crank cover using a towel covered screwdriver to pry it up... find the end of the pin (not the hooped top portion) and push it out from one side with another small screwdriver. It will fly out so either cover it on the other end or watch where it lands!) The handle will pop right out then. This was the hardest part of this job... it requires some care and patience. After everything is done and you are replacing it, put the pin back on the removed crank handle and then push it firmly onto its original position. It will click and hold. There is probably a specialized tool for this, but it is seemingly impossible to hook it from the top and pull it out... I tried using a paper clip. Pushing the pin out from the bottom is easiest.

Happened to me a few months ago. Remove the inside rear panel and pull the latch manually. Then you can unscrew the broken latch and replace it.