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Chevy Astro
Chevy Astro is a mid-sized van manufactured by General Motor’s Chevrolet brand (1985-2005) to compete with the Japanese Toyota Van and Plymouth Voyager/Dodge Caravan twins. Aside from the standard passenger vans, the vehicles are also available as cargo vans.
2,448 Questions
Start by replacing both FRONT oxygen sensors. They're in the exhaust manifold, just before the headpipe. Next, check the plugs and wires. You should probably replace them and maybe run a compression test while you're at it. For your own sanity, just do one at a time. Maybe replace the oxygen sensors first. That's the most difinitive fault code. Next take the vehicle to an auto parts retailer and have the charging system tested. Do the plugs and wires last. Don't mess with them until the other issues are resolved. Your auto parts retailer will have an OBD code scanner which can clear the codes for you. After you've replaced the oxygen sensors and tested the charging system, clear the codes and drive it for a while to see what happens. Maybe go back a week later, whenever you have the free time, and see if there is a code again. Take it slow and don't throw money at the problem.
What is the easiest way to replace the spark plugs on a Chevy Astro van?
I found that you can reach the drivers side front plug #1 through the wheel well. Plugs #3 and #5 I was able to reach from under the van, these are the middle and back plug on the drivers side.
I was able to reach the passanger side plugs #2 ,#4 and #6 through the passenger wheel well. Plug #6 was a bit tricky, I used in order a 5/8' spark plug socket with swivel attached, a 3" extension, another swivel, two 8" extensions.
You will still have to remove the engine cover if changing plug wires which I suggest you do along with the cap and rotor.
How do you change rear speakers in a 2006 impala?
pull your back seats down, there should be some screws right behind them...around 4. then you will need to pull of the little grey panel the screws came off of. afterwards, you will need to unsrew the screws underneath the speakers in the trunk, just leave your back seats down and crawl through right there. once you have done that, just pop off the back panel, and then you will need to unscrew the speakers, then pull them off, (just pull them because they have a glue that holds them in, they will not brake!), then you will need to cut off the stock adapter on the end of the wire that was attached to your speakers, then you will just attach the red and black wires to your speakers and install them. reverse the process to put your panel back on...note that you will not be able to use the grill that came with your speacker because the stock speaker grill (or cover) has little interlocking pieces that latch onto the rear dash panel.
Outer door handle installation Chevy Astro 1994?
Go to Autozone, in the HELP! section you will find replacement door handles for the Safari/Astro (they break that often) the instructions come with. This costs under $20
could be a bad fuel pump or fuel filter. have a friend crank the car as you bang on the fuel tank.this can some times free up the trash on your fuel pump.
When should you replace spark plug wires on astro?
I replaced my wires at about 125,000 miles when the van was 4 years old. This will vary as wires will deteriorate with age as well as mileage (heat). I noticed problems when the weather was humid or raining. The van was harder to start and did not idle as well as when the weather dried up.
Why does a battery go dead in a 1994 astro van only in the morning?
Your battery may have a bad cell � have your local auto parts store �test� the battery for �load� � most do this for free; If you find the only one that wants to charge, go somewhere else. If it is not the battery then you have an overnight power drain. A light staying on, the radar detector plugged in, the DVD player plugged in, the Cell phone charger plugged in. Anyone can find the easy fixes, the hard ones are just that. These types of drains can normally only be found with an AMP meter and by going through every base circuit in the van to find what is drawing power and then determining what should not be drawing power. � To imagine the complication in this procedure, imagine you�re the water company, and someone has a leaking faucet, and you need to know who it is. So, you turn off everyone�s water and then turn them back on, one at a time until you find the one pipe that shows someone using water. Then you follow that pipe to the block it supplies, then go door to door � ETC � This is best left to someone who knows car electrical systems. A 1998 AWD ASTRO - My battery was sometimes dead. Dealer reported finding no problems. By chance, I discovered excess grease in passenger window lift track penetrated and shorts the electronic window lift motor - A warm day, at night grease gells by morning the battery would be dead.
Your 95 aerostar van quit running and wont start It is getting fuel What are some possible causes?
make sure battery is good or the selinoid or connections clean the post rewire if you take breather off and smell fuel your getting gas filter is not clogged check your alternator change air filter or fuel filter if needed also fouled out plugs and wires could cause it not to fire and start
Where is the block heater plug in on a 2000 astro van?
The plug is located on the driver's side of the vehicle, tied to the back wall, close to the top of the engine compartment, in between the power steering reservoir tank and the battery. It has a orange-ish colored cap on the end of it which protects the outlet prongs. You will need cutters to cut the wire tie. The cord is "flat" and will reach to the front of the vehicle when it's untied.
1988 Chevy Astro only blow air through the windshield what is wrong?
I have a 2003 astro with the same problem, it was the blower motor
check your fuses, likely culprit
How do i fix an 88 astro van speedometer noise?
I see no answer yet nov17 2012. I have same problem on 86 astro. Its got 66000 miles. Its not always noisy. Don't know what starts noise. It also sometimes jumps around past 60 mph. Don't know if oiling it will help.
How do you change the air filter on 1986 Chevy astro van?
You will have to unbolt and remove the engine access cover inside the passenger compartment. Then you can easily get to the air cleaner.
Low vacuum. When you push down on the accelerator, vacuum decreases. Your Blower doors use vacuum to change positions from floor to vent to defrost. Have a vacuum test done on the vehicle. You may have a vacuum leak, or this may be a sign the engine is getting weak.(Low compression, Leaking valves, etc.)
How do you replace a head gasket on a 3.4 liter engine?
the library should have a shop manual for this vehicle, you can make copies of the right sections :)
check the roller on top as well as the bottom. if there are misaligned it will suck the door into the body when closed, wrong. alignment with those doors is important. as far as the rollers, see if the outer ling on the top one is broken or missing.
What kind of scanner you need for a 1995 Chevy Astro Van?
You need an OBDII scanner to retrieve the trouble codes.
Could be one of a few problems on this, I'm taking this from the standpoint that nothing was working when this started. Given in the order I would try things. Pressure Test:
Key Off Engine Off. Put a set of gages on the AC connectors, make sure you have at least 75lb of pressure (both sides). If NO PRESSURE - you have a freon leak it needs to be fixed and the system recharged. If PRESSURE, look along the LOW SIDE lines for a T type connector and wires (two) coming out of it - this is the low pressure relay (they are not always in the same place so you just have to look - normally though they are almost in front of the blower). Once you find it, unplug it and get a paper clip that can bridge the two connectors. Start the van and turn on the AC MAX (including rear ac if you have it); make sure the blowers are running. Now put the paper clip across the two connectors and see if the compressor kicks in. Warning do not leave it in this state for more than 30 to 60 seconds, this is a test procedure not a bypass! Watch the gages and see if the pressure is reading normal (low side around 40lb). If the low side goes below 40lb's you are low on freon, pull the paper clip instantly! Leaving the system in this state for longer than advised, or allowing pressure to go below 35lbs could cause the system to rupture a hose (from evap freeze up). Have the system leak tested and recharged. IF the compressor kicks in then the low pressure relay needs to be replaced. This relay SHOULD have a schrader valve (the type valve used on a tire) meaning it will NOT leak when replaced (you will loose 'some' freon). IF the compressor does NOT kick in, then remove the clip and shut down the motor - Key Off, Engine Off (KOEO). Use a test probe from the positive battery terminal and find GROUND on the two wires going to the compressor. Once located use a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the OTHER wire on the compressor (do NOT unplug the wires, it still needs the ground to work), listen for a CLICK (and the front part of the compressor should compress or move IN) if this works then the problem is in the compressor relay or its related wiring, if it does NOT then the AC Clutch needs to be replaced - this requires special tools (Clutch puller, Freon Recovery) and goes beyond the scope of this answer. The AC Compressor Relay is located in the Under Hood Fuse Block - it is a 5 pin MINI relay (not one of the large ones) and SHOULD be marked. Local auto parts stores have location books and will help you find the relay in case it is not marked. Testing the AC Compressor relay and or the wiring for the AC system goes beyond the scope of this answer. Caveat Warnings! The operations, test procedures and instructions in this answer deal with things that COULD cause INJURY OR DEATH. Freon in its compressed state can cause 3rd degree chemical burns ON CONTACT / INSTANT BURNS - contact with your eyes WILL cause instant blindness. Working under the hood with the engine running is DANGEROUS, all caution should be taken. Working with electrical wiring could cause an electrical fire, or in the worse case, the battery to explode. IF you are not familiar with these operations, do not feel comfortable doing them, then contact a professional service person to carry out the work!
How do you replace the alternator on a 1991 Chevy Astro?
On all the Astro/Safari vans I've seen, the alternator is located on the passenger side of the engine.
Recommended tools:
- 8mm box-end wrench or socket (not all will need)
- 10mm DEEP box-end wrench or socket
- 13mm box-end wrench or socket
- 14mm DEEP box-end wrench or socket
- 15mm box-end wrench or socket
- 3-inch socket extension
- 3/8-inch-drive ratchet
- steel "butter knife" or suitable substitute
- teflon tape or other "thread sealer"
If you elect to use a 1/4-inch-drive ratchet in lieu of the 3/8-inch-drive ratchet, limit its use to 10mm-or-smaller sockets: the threaded fasteners in this application having larger heads require greater torque than can be safely and reliably applied using 1/4-inch-drive hardware.
Read this entire procedure first, then decide whether this is a project for you to attempt.
There are significant minor differences to the specific procedures involved, to wit:
(1) Always observe all applicable safety procedures.
(2) Disconnect the cable from the positive (+) battery terminal. For some vans, you will need an 8mm socket or wrench; for others, you will need a 10mm socket or wrench.
(3) The power steering reservoir is in the way on vans having the Z-code engine: leaving the hoses attached and avoiding tipping of the reservoir, remove and save the screws that hold the reservoir to the cowl; then bend the hoses and rest the reservoir on the driver's side of the radiator shroud.
The air filter box is in the way on vans having the W-code engine. Open the clamps that seal the box, remove the filter: the nuts and bolts holding the airbox in place are visible. Remove the airbox, saving the hardware.
(4) The ductwork supplying the engine with fresh air is in the way. Usually, these plastic pieces just click together, but there may be one or more clamps, nuts and/or bolts, or screws holding some of it in place. The offending portion consists of the following pieces:
(a) the lower part that turns the air about 90-degrees, so that the air flows upwards,
(b) the upright section that channels the air upwards (it looks like an accordion's bellows on the Z-code engine),
(c) the upper ductwork connecting the upright section with the air filter housing.
I have heard that some ductwork installations are secured using #2 Phillips threaded fasteners (screws); if yours is such an application, you will also need a #2 Phillips screwdriver.
(5) Remove serpentine belt. The ratcheting tool that looks like a long, flat handle -- it came with the vehicle as part of the lug wrench kit -- has an opening that fits the pulley on the tensioner. Using the tool, loosen the tensioner with one hand and slip the belt off using the other hand.
At this point, whether you need to remove the fan from the front of the engine should be obvious. If you must, be aware that so doing without removing the shroud really isn't going to give you much room (about 1/2 an inch, maybe an inch).
If you need more than that, the shroud has to come off so that you can remove the fan. Although at 13.5 inches (34.3mm) circumference and 14.5 inches (37.9mm) circumference respectively, my forearms and upper arms are rather small, I think that needing to remove the fan to have enough room is a highly unlikely condition.
(6) Remove the engine oil dipstick bracket from the stud holding the alternator to the bracket. The nut securing the dipstick bracket is probably a 10mm. Remove the dipstick bracket from the stud. Be aware the dipstick tube could slide from the engine.
(7) The alternator bracket should be loosened from the front of the engine. Remove the bolts (it should be a trio of 14mm bolts) and save them. This allows the bracket, tensioner and alternator to be tilted away from the engine. At least one bolt may be wet with engine coolant; seal the threads of any such bolt before reinstalling it.
(8) Use an appropriate tool to unclip the plug from the alternator (I used a "butter knife), and remove the red wire from the lug at the back of the alternator. The nut securing the red wire to the alternator is probably a 10mm; the stud in the alternator is probably a 15mm (menitoned just in case the new one needs snugging).
(9) Remove the bolt from the rear of the old alternator holding it to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm); then remove the stud holding the old alternator to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm); then remove the "hinge" bolt holding the old alternator to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm bolt screwed into a 15mm nut).
Installation of the new unit is done by reversing the steps of disassembly.
SAFETY NOTES: Be aware that there can exist pinch hazards during this procedure. Also be aware of the possible hazard of falling tools and/or debris.
Helpful hint: if possible, have someone else hold the bracket/alternator/tensioner assembly in-place while you start the lower 14mm bolt by hand from underneath the passenger side. This makes installing the upper bolts much easier.
Start ALL the bolts before tightening any of them. Generally, it goes pretty quickly if you begin with the "all bolts finger-tight, then all bolts hand (wrench/socket) tight, then all bolts torqued" method.
NOTE: Conspicuously dexterous people may not have to remove the alternator bracket, but in my opinion, the procedure is much easier if this is done. You should never have to remove the doghouse (engine cover inside the van) to replace the alternator. If a mechanic told you he/she did it that way, you should be going to a different mechanic.
There are two bolts visible on the front side of the alternator, and one on the BACK side which you can only feel, not see. The trick to remove this back side bolt is to remove the engine shroud in the passenger compartment, and remove the bolt securing the dip sticks to the firewall. With the dipsticks loose, you can push them aside enough to get a long socket extension on this back-side bolt (might be 10mm, I forget) from the passenger footwell area. An alternate method used by Pros, is to raise the vehicle on a hoist and use a 3-foot socket extension from the ground to reach up to this rear bolt. IMPORTANT NOTE: If this job is done by someone other than yourself, check to make sure this rear bolt was re-installed. Some unscrupulous individuals will omit replacing this bolt because it is such a PITA. You wil have problems a hundred miles down the road, failed alternator, thrown belt, cracked accessory mounting bracket, etc.
