Chevy Astro

Struts run about $75 each at retail. Shops generally charge between $50-75 each for labor. Plus, you should have the van aligned after.

Go to this link to learn all about shocks and struts.

http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com/2007/05/shocks-and-struts-what-they-do-when-to.html

Rick

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com

start the car, let it run for about 10 to 20 minutes then disconect the batery, the car should stay on (for a few minutes ofcourse) if it dies right away then the alternator is bad Other posts on other sites say this is NOT to be done or serious damage can occur. Do it at your peril.

BECAUSE THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH THEM, SERIOUSLY, FRONTS OR REARS? BE MORE SPECIFIC, PLEASE

It's pretty straightforward. Locate it (look in the vicinity of the flywheel), unplug the electrical connections, unbolt it and remove, then do the reverse order in putting the new one in.

Nothing, it's discontinued.

You can buy a replacement cooler line assembly that goes between the oil filter and the radiator. I believe Autozone can get this buy order. Takes about 30min to replace.

Get a 5/8 flare wrench to take off the high pressure hose and a screwdriver to take off the low pressure hose. Drain out fluid. Then you'll have to get a pulley puller to pull off the pulley. Once off the mounting bolts are exposed for you to take off the pump. Be sure to check brackets for cracks as the 89 is prone to this. Mounting is the reverse of this.

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Just a suggestion, I just replaced my power steering pump on a 94 which should be the same. Remove the two piece radiator shroud which improves accessibility. Now you can see what you are doing much better. When you get to the pulley removal part.... leave it on (unless you have a good air supply and 1/2" impact gun) and remove the bolts from the aluminum bracket that goes into the cylinder head. If your pump has a remote reservoir remove the filler hose at the top of the pump. Next remove the two front bolts holding the ac compressor to the aluminum bracket. Slide the bracket down and you can take the whole deal to Advance or Auto Zone and they will gladly remove the pulley and pump and reinstall the new one back on the bracket.

yes

does not have one.fuel injected

hi there had this problem on a different car but found the cause to be a split in the air intake pipe also check all the pipe fittings for any loose fittings hope this cures your problem nate

I'm having the same problem with my GrandPrix, there's a website that may help you out a bit too, www.2carpros.com

The EGR valve on the Villager/Quest is located at the top-rear drivers ride of the intake plenum. You will see 2 parts that look almost identical. They look almost like 2 little flying saucers. One is the BPT and the other is the EGR valve. A common problem on these vans, is the rubber tube that goes between the two parts. This hose usually cracks and splits or becomes plugged with carbon. This will trip the check engine light and an EGR code will be present. Replace the little rubber hose (its usually in stock at your Ford or Nissan dealer) and you should be good to go.Good Luck!

if you look on the tag that is on the drivers door under the door latch it should tell you it should be over 9000 pounds.

If you are getting spark, check the electric fuel pump pressure. Had a similar problem, changed the fuel pump, cured it. ==New Answer Headline== Also, if you turn the ignition switch on and the 'Check Engine' display light does not illuminate but all the rest of them do, then it could be a blown fuel pump fuse. It's a 20 amp fuse mounted by the right front headlight. Don't do what I did and pay 150$ for an engine diagnostic check all for a .50 cent fuse !

First check the fuse to see if it is blown. If the fuse is good, then it is either the blower motor switch, blower motor Resistor Pack, or the Blower Motor itself. It can also be bad wiring. Apply 12 volts directly to the blower motor to see if it is good. If it is good and the wiring it OK, then it is the switch or resistor pack. I would bet on the Resistor Pack being the culprit. The switch rarely goes bad..

In all honestly very very likely none.

To ensure it, avoid heavy throttle application, the sooner you can get a significant amount of gas in the tank the safer. E85 or pure ethanol is NOT near as corrosive as people are led to believe. Methanol on the other hand is pretty rough stuff to some materials. But those materials are often very rare in most fuel injection systems.

Stoichiometric A/F ratio for pure gasoline is 14.67:1, for E85 it is 9.67:1. So the fuel injectors need to be able to deliver approx 50% MORE fuel at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) than the standard gas injectors.

The stock lambda O2 sensor will properly control the fuel mixture to maintain "stoich"

keeping the computer making proper fuel mixture.

Most cars were already safe to use ethanol fuel since the early 80's. But being the carbs or fuel injection cannot supply ENOUGH fuel at WOT or heavy throttle, it can cause damage at WOT due to running lean. Being 15 gallons is not full tank, you are probably running around 65-70% ethanol and the rest gas.

You very likely will get a P0171 and/or P1074 fault (lean bank 1 and lean bank 2). Once you get more gasoline in the tank, after 2 diving cycles it will clear and after 40 or so driving cycles without the fault it will be cleared from the history.

Possibly. What an exhaust leak will do is KILL you. Either from the Carbon Monoxide you inhale while driving or the wreck you are going to have when it puts you to sleep. Get the exhaust leak fixed ASAP.

Transmission is getting tired - transmission death rattle

It doesn't have a reset button.

just a tip my 1988 Chevy g20 van i thought the blower was out but the ground wire on the motor is riveted to the housing and worked lose it would work sometimes but i took out the rivet and put a screw in real tight and it fixed it permanent

This is what I found it seems pretty good but I am having a hard time removing the broken piece from the rear holder. Tools and Materials Required Floor jack, 2-1/2 ton minimum, 4-ton preferred 2 or 4 jack stands, 2-ton minimum Breaker bar, 1/2" drive Ratchet, 3/8" and 1/2" drive 4" or 6" extension, 3/8" and 1/2" drive 1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4" open end and box end wrenches/sockets Scraper, pocket knife, etc. to clean torsion bar socket in A-arm Bottle jack, wood blocks, etc. 2-lb. sledgehammer 3/8" or 1/2" diameter drift or hard steel punch or similar tool Large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar to remove torsion bar socket end seal Torsion bar tensioning tool Penetrating oil, as required Chassis grease, as required High pressure thread lubricant, as required Mineral spirits, solvent, etc. as required or desired Gloves and eye protection Procedure: NOTE: Always wear eye protection, especially when working under the coach. Be aware that when you loosen/remove any of the hardware or components, a lot of drek will fall out. Protect your eyes. And never, never, NEVER get under the coach unless it is supported securely with appropriate jack stands. Do not get under it while it is only lifted on a jack. Raise and support vehicle enough to allow loosening of wheel lug nuts, loosen nuts. With floor jack, raise vehicle at front crossmember until wheels are off the ground. Support vehicle with jack stands under the front crossmember, and additionally under the frame as the situation warrants. Remove wheel on whichever side is being worked on. Apply generous amount of penetrating oil to the torsion bar adjusting bolts and nuts. Let set to thoroughly penetrate rusted bolts. Take a measurement of or carefully observe how far the adjusting bolts are threaded into the nuts. You will need these measurements to approximately reset the bolts for ride height adjustment later. Apply penetrating oil to mid-frame crossmember attaching bolts. Let set. Follow the torsion bar to the front, and locate the mounting socket in the lower A-arm. At the front of the hex shaped socket is a soft metal seal cap. You have to remove this cap to be able to slide the torsion bar forward enough to remove it from the rear mount. With the large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar, pry out this cap. Try not to damage it too much. One or more of the side flanges of the cap may break off and it could get bent up while removing it. It doesn't seem to be too critical, and can be pounded back into shape sufficiently to be reused. Apply a small amount of high pressure thread lubricant to the threads and end point of the torsion bar tensioning tool. Attach torsion bar tensioning tool squarely on the frame member. Be sure the locating pin is in the guide hole on the top side of the crossmember right over the "pork chop". If your tool does not have this locating pin, be sure to attach the tool squarely on the top of the crossmember. Tighten any bolts/nuts on the tool to secure it. Turn the center bolt of the tool up into the dimple in the bottom of the pork chop arm. Continue tightening until the end of the pork chop arm is off the adjusting bolt. Carefully remove the adjusting bolt. This could take some time and a lot of effort. Keep the penetrating oil handy as several applications may be necessary. If it strips or breaks, you'll have to cut it out or burn it out with a torch, and replace it with a new one. When the adjusting bolt is out, remove the flat nut (rounded with slots on one side). Turn the torsion bar tensioning tool center bolt counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the pork chop and bar. When the tension is completely off the bar, the tool and bar/pork chop assembly will basically fall apart. Remove the tool. Repeat 7 through 13 for the other side, except you don't have to remove the seal cap if you are not removing/replacing the torsion bar. You only have to loosen the bar to be able to move the crossmember. On the rear side of the crossmember you can see the end of the torsion bar through a small hole in the crossmember. Insert the drift/punch into this hole and with the hammer pound the bar loose until it starts to slide forward. At this point you should probably be able to slide the bar forward enough by hand to clear the crossmember. Loosen and remove the crossmember mount assembly on the side you're working on. Two bolts and nuts hold it in place. Slide the rubber mount away from the crossmember and remove it. Loosen the bolts on the other side enough so that the crossmember can be moved. If you are removing/replacing both torsion bars, go ahead and remove the bolts and crossmember mount. Using the bottle jack and necessary wood blocks, raise the crossmember enough so that the torsion bar can be slid under it. You will have to make sure the bar goes back into the hex socket on the front mount so it will slide through. The old grease in the socket will act like glue, so you may want to loosen it up with penetrating oil or mineral spirits or some other solvent. Slide the bar through and out of the socket. It weighs 25 or 30 pounds so don't let it fall on your head. Remove the bar and yourself from under the coach. With a pocket knife or other small scraping tool, clean out the old grease from the front hex socket. Use a solvent to remove all the grease, if desired. Clean the old grease from the hex end of the torsion bar. Reshape the socket seal cap if necessary. Test fit it into the socket, but don't pound it into place yet. Examine the threads of the adjusting bolt and nut. If they look okay, clean them up with a wire brush. Dress them with a die and tap if you have these tools. Otherwise, the wire brush should be fine. Reassemble them with high pressure thread lube and run the bolt all the way through and back again. Clean the threads again, and re-lube them with thread lube. Leave them disassembled. Apply a glob of clean chassis grease to the inside of the front hex socket. Be liberal and coat it well. Apply grease over the hex end of the torsion bar. From under the coach, insert the torsion bar (either replacement or same one) into the front hex socket. Be sure you have the correct bar for the side. Each bar is marked on the end with either "L" or "R". Each one will fit on either side, but you don't want to mix them up. Verify before you assemble. Installation is just the reverse of removal. Reassemble the bar/pork chop. Tap the bar from the front enough to set it 1/8" or so from the inner surface of the crossmember. Check it at the hole in the crossmember. Be sure to tap the seal cap back into place. Reinstall the crossmember mount, and tighten bolts. Be sure to tighten bolts on the side loosened. Apply the torsion bar tool and raise the end of the pork chop far enough to be beyond where it was originally. Insert the adjusting nut and bolt. Turn the adjusting bolt up to about the same position you observed or measured prior to disassembly. Remove tensioning tool allowing the pork chop to contact adjusting bolt. Remove jack stands, and reinstall front wheel(s). Completely lower coach. Check and adjust ride height as outlined in the Owner's Manual or service manual. Be sure tire pressures are correct and rear suspension is at the correct height ("Travel" position). Use the tensioning tool with the front wheels off the ground to raise or lower the pork chop. Never use the adjusting bolt -- it will strip. No matter which way you have to adjust the ride height, always relieve the tension on the adjusting bolt before trying to turn it. ---- I tried and tried to complete this job but because the torsion bar was broken off inside of the cannister I had to cut it apart with an acetelene torch.

yew put pew in your tt hoewl

The alignment on your front-end tires may be off, it would be a good bet to take your car to a mechanic.

I think the problem is with the heater motor resistor pack which you will find located near the fan motor. Open the hood and look to the left side corner of the fire wall. I have a 95 Astro and my resistor pack is located on top of the heater blower housing. I have changed many of these resisters on different makes and have found them to have their resistors rusted. The resistors are made of wire and they rtust and burn out. Find the small plug that goes to the resistors and you will find a a plate which has two screws, one on each end of the resistor pack. Remove the two screws and pull out the resistor pack. You can either get a used one from the junk yard or purchase one from a Chevy dealer. The resistor is used to control the different fan speeds and is located in the the blower housing so that the fan helps cool the resistors when the fan is running.

one doesn't want to even approach this job unless macanically experianced:remove neg. batt. cable.on side near starter remove both batt. cables(your car may run bad for a day or 3. due to the onboard conputer has to reremember all pertinant things)securly choc side your working on. don't trust any car jack. for you'll be under the van for a while.place a jack under the oil pan but put a 1/by2 peice of wood between the top of jack and surface of oil pan and ofcourse favor the side of the pan your working on in order that the jack will more readily jack up that side.now jack it up very slightly, probably less than a quarter inch to take the full weight of engine off that mount.now having done this remove the through bolt on that mount.if it disn't come out semi easy either raise up jack adjustment or lower it slightly to help aliviate any extra binding(and diong this job unsaftly and binding one will contend with.With the through bolt and nut removed and the jack continually maintainning the weight of the engine on that sideOh and a small skinny led flash light in your mouth, less you have anything better for proper lighting than i didyou now have to focus in on removing the probably 3 bolts that hold the motor mount on, 3 nuts and 3 bolts. it's probably a 15 milimeter sockett and a 15 milimeter Ring wrench. You will probably want 2 wratchets and 2 sockets aslo to help this ardious task.Also a three eights inch drive 'Elbow'And extentions. And probably even a helper, if you've even made it this far:Make sure you set a huge sheet of cardboard that your laying on if your working on cement, It helps!Thrase 3 nuts and bolts are also called Fasteners and ther hard to loosen off all the way, but there supposto be this way so they don't loosen in the comming years you'll be driving around.(conversly there semi hard to retighten back on when you get to that part)Wight the bolts removed jack up the engine with the jack under the oil pan more (probably an inch or slightly more) to help remove the mount slipping it off to the side type thing to remove it.Installation is mostly reverse of removal whrn you get the new motor mount placed right in there cinch down the 3 nut and bolts evenly incorperating at least a 2 wave tightening method. this will insure it's proper seating, And tork em down to specs, but don't over tork, their'll begine to strip.Now getting the the engine back down over the new mount is tricky: You may have to incorperate bars or long screwdrivers to help the engine down over the mount while lowering the weight of the engine with jack under oil pan so you can get the through bolt back in without damaging the new motor mount!what i disvovered since we have the same van if the prying doesn't go to well try placing the jack under the far side of the oil pan, jack it up only a very little and see it doesn't cause the through bolt to go in easier. you now have one real new motor mount!! i was rushed and may have forgot something so be always carefull.