Chevy Astro

check to see if it's still in time and have the compression checked, if these four are correct it has to run. time, fuel compression and spark. hope it helps

Remove the belt from your 1994 Chevy Astro Van 4.3 liter engine alternator. Remove the wiring harness from the back of the alternator. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new alternator.

oh boy! You and I are in the same boat! lol I have a 2000 Kia Sephia and it is notorious for problems! Check wire harnesses leading to starter, and have mechanic check ignition/spark plugs... especially if it running/idling rough. Had the same problem with the same make and model. I'm not sure exactly what caused the problem but it only happens when the gas tank gets low. If I keep a half a tank of gas I don't have the problem.

Usually, NO.

You will need power converter/circuit protector. Any vehicle that has amber turn signals require one of these. Go to Wal-mart or any auto parts store and they should have what you need. There are different ones for differrent makes and models. There are also "generic" ones out there but require a working knowledge of your vehicles wiring.

The most common cause of fluid coming out of the dipstick tube is an over fill. Check the fluid level to see if there is too much.

Yes, both injectors must work. If one isn't look for a broken wire or clog.

Most all of the vacuum lines will start from the intake manifold in the rear..........

1990-2005 Chevy Astro weighs 3897lbs

The previous post above is from Adeyfk.

I own a 1990 Chevy Astro AWD Van. AWD Vans weigh more. I called the Chevy Dealership and gave them my vin # and was told the gross weight was very close to 6,000 lbs. and one other web site said the same. Not all vans weigh the same. Some of the older models had extended back ends and/or heavier AWD frames.

Fuel mixture. It sounds like it's choking out. Does it smoke on take off or smell really strong of gas? Also look at your EGR valve : that can cause a motor to stall under a sudden load. (providing further information may improve answer)

perhaps the driver is too heavy??

There is a recall that affected many Astro vans which I believe included the 1998. Call your local Chevrolet dealer and ask about it.

To get to the spark plugs of the Safari Van, the best way to do it is to take off the engine housing in the passenger compartment. There are latches on the sides of the housing, plus two bolts next to the latches, plus there are two nuts down on the floor- you have to really put your head down there to see them. Then there are a couple of braces there as well. Just stack everything outside as you go, so you can put it back together in the same order when you are done. Having a universal joint for your socket will also make getting the plugs out easier. With the cover off you will be able to see all four rear plugs. The front two you can feel, but not see. You can either reach those from inside the van, or from underneath. The spark plugs may also be reached by jacking up the front of the van and removing the front wheels. Then, remove the rubber flaps in the wheel wells. You will probably need new fasteners when you put them back on. They are available at popular auto parts stores like Autozone or Checker.

The EGR Valve is located right behind the carberater. After pulling the dog house off and the air filter holder that sits above the injectors, it'll be easier to see. It looks like a cilinder held on by to bolts into the carberator. Addtional info: On our 1994, it only came with a 4.3 Vortec engine the EGR is accessed by removing the air cleaner housing top and bottom. You'll see it under carb intake port and just above and to the left of the thermostat housing. It is easy to get there if you use a short standard screwdriver and take the filter tube off of the carb there, near the front of the engine. A 10mm socket is needed for 2 bolts It helped to have a long extension for my ratchet wrench. Make sure you are careful with the gasket. Most of the time you can just use carb cleaner to clean up the valve instaed of buying a new one.

I had same issue, replaced fuel pressure regulator on fuel rail under intake cover. Starts and runs great now. Scott

check your timing belt

you need to remove the inner door panel because there is most likely a rod that has come out of place. look for it too be hanging loose some where close to the latch or the outter handle the rod should reatach to the door handle assembly some what easilly

Cylinder Heads Removal Rotate crankshaft to zero degrees top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke. Disconnect battery ground cable. Drain engine cooling system. Remove air cleaner outlet tube to throttle body. Mark and remove vacuum lines to upper intake manifold. Disconnect EGR backpressure transducer hose from EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube, loosen lower EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube nut and rotate EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube away from EGR valve. Disconnect the throttle position sensor (TP sensor), idle air control valve (IAC valve), EGR backpressure transducer and EGR vacuum regulator solenoid electrical connectors. WARNING: COVER FUEL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE WITH SHOP CLOTH TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL FUEL SPRAY INTO EYES. Relieve pressure at the fuel pressure relief valve (Schrader valve). Remove fuel line safety clips. CAUTION: Cover fuel line ends with clean shop cloths to prevent dirt from entering opening. Disconnect fuel lines. Remove upper intake manifold as outlined. Discard old intake manifold upper gasket. Disconnect engine control sensor wiring retainers from rocker arm cover stud bolts and each fuel injector, and position the engine control sensor wiring out of the way. NOTE: Fuel injectors and fuel injection supply manifold may be removed with lower intake manifold as an assembly. Remove fuel injection supply manifold and fuel injectors. Remove ignition wires from spark plugs. Remove wire harness retainers from valve cover retaining stud bolts. Remove ignition coil and bracket from LH front cylinder head and set aside. Disconnect upper radiator hose and heater water hoses. Remove camshaft position sensor (CMP sensor) and housing. Disconnect engine control sensor wiring from engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT sensor) and the water temperature indicator sender unit. If LH (front) cylinder head is being removed, perform the following: Disconnect generator electrical connectors. Remove drive belt. Remove drive belt tensioner. Remove power steering support bracket and power steering pump as an assembly and set aside in a position to prevent fluid from leaking out. Remove oil level indicator tube retaining nut from exhaust manifold stud bolt. Rotate or remove oil level indicator tube from exhaust manifold. If RH (rear) cylinder head is being removed, perform the following: Remove intake manifold support. Remove valve covers. NOTE: Regardless of cylinder head removal order, the No. 3 cylinder intake valve push rod (6565) must be removed to allow removal of lower intake manifold. Loosen rocker arm seat retaining bolts enough to allow the rocker arm to be lifted off the push rod and rotated to one side. Remove push rods. Identify the position of each push rod. The push rods should be installed in their original position during reassembly. Remove lower intake manifold. Remove spark plugs. Remove exhaust manifolds. Remove cylinder head retaining bolts and discard. Remove cylinder heads. Remove and discard the old head gaskets. Installation CAUTION: Use care when scraping aluminum surfaces to prevent gouging which may cause leak paths. NOTE: Lightly oil all bolt and stud bolt threads before installation except those specifying special sealant. Place shop cloth in valve tappet valley to catch any dirt or gasket material. Clean cylinder head, intake manifold, valve cover and head gasket surfaces. If the cylinder head was removed for a head gasket replacement, check the flatness of the cylinder head and cylinder block gasket surfaces. Position new head gaskets, noting UP designation on head gasket face, on cylinder block using the cylinder head to block dowel for alignment. NOTE: Replace cylinder head to block dowel if damaged. Position cylinder heads on cylinder block over cylinder head to block dowels. CAUTION: Always use new cylinder head bolts when installing cylinder head or damage to engine may occur. Install new cylinder head retaining bolts: Tighten retaining bolts in sequence shown to 70-90 Nm (52-66 lb-ft). Then back off bolts 360 degrees. NOTE: When cylinder head retaining bolts have been tightened as outlined, it is not necessary to retighten the bolts after extended engine operation. However, the bolts can be checked for tightness if desired. Tighten the cylinder head retaining bolts to: 40-55 Nm (33-41 lb-ft) 85-99 Nm (63-73 lb-ft) Install lower intake manifold as outlined. Connect engine control sensor wiring to the engine coolant temperature sensor and to the water temperature indicator sender unit. Dip each push rod end in Engine Assembly .Install push rods in their original position. Install rocker arms, rocker arm seats and retaining bolts.Tighten bolts to 7-15 Nm (5-11 lb-ft). CAUTION: Rocker arm seats must be fully seated in cylinder head and push rods must be seated in rocker arm and valve tappet sockets prior to final tightening. Final tighten retaining bolts to 26-38 Nm (19-28 lb-ft). NOTE: If the original valve train components are being installed, a valve clearance check is not required. If a component has been replaced, perform a valve clearance check. Lubricate all rocker arms with Engine Assembly Lubricant. Install lower intake manifold as outlined. Install spark plugs if removed. Position valve covers on the cylinder heads and install retaining bolts. Note the location of ignition wire retainer stud bolts. Connect engine control sensor wiring to fuel injectors and valve cover stud bolts. Install upper intake manifold and intake manifold upper gasket. Install ignition coil and bracket assembly. Tighten retaining bolts to 40-55 Nm (29-41 lb-ft). Connect ignition wires to the spark plugs and ignition wire separators (12297) to valve cover retaining stud bolts. Connect intake air temperature sensor (IAT sensor), throttle position sensor, idle air control valve and EGR backpressure transducer or EGR vacuum regulator solenoid electrical connectors. If LH (front) cylinder head was removed, perform the following: Install or rotate oil level indicator tube to exhaust manifold retaining stud bolt. Tighten nut to 16-20 Nm (12-15 lb-ft). Install power steering support bracket and power steering pump assembly. Tighten retaining bolt to 40-55 Nm (29-41 lb-ft). Install drive belt tensioner. If RH (rear) cylinder head was removed install intake manifold support. Install generator. Tighten long retaining bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft) and short bolt to 37 Nm (27 lb-ft). Install the drive belt. Connect fuel lines as outlined. Install fuel line safety clips. Connect upper radiator hose and heater water hoses. Tighten clamps securely. Connect vacuum lines to premarked locations. CAUTION: Engine coolant is corrosive to all engine bearing material. Replace engine oil after removal of a coolant carrying component to help prevent future failure. Drain and change engine oil. Install air cleaner outlet tube to throttle body and engine air cleaner (ACL). Install crankcase ventilation hose to valve cover. CAUTION: This engine has aluminum components and requires a special corrosion inhibiting coolant to avoid cooling system damage. Fill and bleed engine cooling system. Connect battery ground cable. Start engine and check for coolant, fuel, oil, vacuum and exhaust leaks. Check, and if necessary, adjust the accelerator cable and speed control actuator cable.

Under the drivers seat

If it has the same mirrors as mine then you have to remove the whole inside panel from the door, remove the window cranks, remove the two screws holding the inside door handle, remove the panel carefully, the plastic retention studs will come loose with a gentle but firm effort. Once you manage to get the panel off the door, you should be able to find the hex nuts that hold the mirror in place. Remove the nuts, switch out the mirror, Reassemble using new plastic studs.

the firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2 1-3-5 driver side 2-4-6 pass side

I have a quick fix that won't cost anything. If yours broke like mine the part that actuates the latch can be made usable by drilling a 1/8 " hole in the part that is still attached to the inner lever. You can insert as I did a small metal rod in the drilled hole using it to open the latch. I used a small philps screw driver the shaft is harden and did not bend. Hint use one that has a lifetime warranty if it breaks you can get another one. Good luck. This fix is for the lower right rear door handle.

Check the vacuum hose attached to the throttle actuator. It may be damaged due to heat from the exhaust manifold. The hose runs from the rear of the engine along the driver's side to the front by the battery.

Check the forums at http://www.astrosafari.com/ for solutions for this

Is the vehicle speed sensor working? If it is not, the service engine soon light should come on when driving also. The speed sensor is located behind the instrument cluster, where the speedometer cable attaches, on the older vans, and I think it might be on the transmission on newer ones.

If the van is older, the wires from the cruise control switch may be shorting out in the steering column.

Another thing to check is the brake switch. Above the brake pedal there should be two switches, one for the brake lights, and one for the cruise control. They are probably both built into the same unit, or at least are very close together.

Finally, the cruise control unit itself is a box attached to the cowling near the windshield washer motor. You can check the cable that comes out of it and goes over to the throttle.

The heater resistor on a 94 Astro is located on the top of the heater box under the hood, it has a four or five wire plug on it and two 6mm screws hold it in a hole in the heater blower box.

Left front of engine compartment behind an acoustic shield. You will need to remove the washer bottle/overflow bottle for clearance. Don't break your washer pump in the process. You will have to trim through the plastic where it's scored and remove one screw to get the piece off. It is hard to see what you are doing, as it's back under the fender. Once the cover piece is off, there are four more screws to remove the motor. You will not be able to remove the motor with the fan attached, you will have to separate them first, unless you are willing to pound a dent in the core support for clearance. Ditto for the install. The fans are very fragile and easy to break, so be warned. Put all the pieces back the way they came off. The part you cut out should fit back in place. If you are not confident, leave it to a pro, as this is a job where you can do more harm than good if you are not careful. It helps to have three arms, eyeballs on stalks, and a few tentacles as well.

If the 8th digit on your vin number is an X as mine is there are 3 oxygen sensors. I don't have dual exhaust so I have one o2 sensor below each manifold (visible from underneath the van) and one after the catalytic converter.