Chevy Camaro RS

You could try checking the block # at mortec.com, but there are so many #'s that came in 2 or 4 that you will probably still need to pull the oil pan down to know for sure.

Assuming you have a V8 (5.0 or 5.7,TPI or TBI) its as simple as taking all the oil pan bolts off and pulling the pan off. Should be the same on a V6.

Ok. In 67, 68, and 69, Chevy offered 4 basic packages for the camaro. The plain camaro, the SS, or super sport, the rs, or rally sport, and the Z/28. The Z/28, was the only "package specific" model. Meaning that there were only one drive train combination available. No variables. The DZ 302, 4 speed, and a 12 bolt rear end. (spoilers, the runway stripes, and cowl hood were all optional) The super sport package, for camaro, anyway, pretty much stood alone. You were limited to a v-8 only, ( the 6 cylinder was available in the plain model) and usually included a "bumble bee" stripe around the nose, rally wheels, and a floor shifter. Back in the late 60's, car manufacturers used the racing scene to promote sales. Usually drag racing. However, with all the comotion caused by the Ford/Ferrari wars on the road coarse, Chevy was forced to build, and unleash the Z/28, on Shelby's cobra's. Rally/road type racing, was often run on the little streets of European towns, that were nothing more than a wide spot in the road, and depended upon the revenue generated by these races. So, they were held rain, or shine, night, or day. And, they were economically challenged, so, the roads were rough, and usually comming apart. Which meant flying debris from the car in front. Which would break the headlights out of the rear car. The roads over there had no street lights. So, to race and win, you had to keep your headlamps in tact. If you notice old pictures of sports cars racing, you weill often see black tape on the headlights, in a X. That was to keep them together if they broke. What Chevy did was to put a cover over the lights, that would slide open when the lights are turned on. To protect, and preserve the lights. That also required moving the blinker lamps down from the grill, to the lower velance. And, they also installed a complete red lense in the rear, and moved the backup lights to the rear lower velance, as well. This package was best suited to combine with the Z/28 package for the SCCA/CanAm circuit. Yes, the Z/28 was designd for road racing. Not drag racing. Anyway, the changed blacks out the entire front grill, and gives the camaro an entirely different look, from the front.

Particles of air acts like billiard balls. Each particle gives it's velocity to nearby ones. Exponential horns are the ones which their cross sectional area increases at the ratio of natural logarithmic constant 'e' . This way, moving particles give their motion forward in an effective manner. Resulting system is an acoustical transformer converts a small speaker's fast moving plane into a slower but large sound surface.

82-92

all models, camaro, berlinetta, rs, z28 and iroc-z. only difference is hood styling, rear spoiler options, engine size, t-top/hardtop/sun or moonroof and ground effects.

open the hatchback, there should be a door in the trunkfloor its under that door

Whoia, whoa, whoa. Why not answer the question?

The 'speed limiter' (to avoid more BS arguements) IS in the computer but reads the VSS from the speedo. On my 86 and my 89, I simply put a switch in series with the VSS and open the connection when I want to calibrate my speedometer at higher speeds.

If the switch is left open too long then you will get a computer error for a VSS failure. Once the switch is reset, the error should clear.

mp

It may have a rev limiter or fuel shut off, but it has no governor. It will be computer controlled.

I just want to say that the first answer is incorrect.. i personally own a 3rd gen camaro rs.. and there is deffinitly no rev limiter.. and no fuel cut off.. the car is governed at 115mph. THis is for a stock 1989 rs 305tbi camaro

His question was, "How do you remove the Governor on 92 RS Camaro?" I stated it had no governor. I stand behind that answer. This car does not have a governor. The speed is controlled by the computer by way of input from the speed sensor. The computer then limits the speed by way of either a rev limiter or a fuel shut off. How else do you think the speed is regulated? The point is that there is no governor as I stated. You say the speed is governed, implying it has a governor. It does not have a governor! A governor in automobiule terms is a totally different device than a computer. The way around this is to connect an on/off switch to the speed sensor wire going to the ECU. By breaking the circuit of the speed sensor to the ECU, the computer will no longer regulate speed. The check engine light will come on and the cruise will not work when this is done. Turning the switch to the on position will restore input to the computer from the sensor and the cruise will work again. The check engine light will go out after a couple of driving cycles.

It's not a governer it is computer controlled. It just backs off at 115. I thought about changing this but honestly I don't need to go more than 115 on the highway. It is kind of a shame though seeing as I still had half a pedal to put to the floor. Well if its computer controlled to shut off at 115 then its a governer. Yes you can bypass this by simply pulling the ecu fuse and let the car reach its designed limit. Your service engine light will come on and your fuel milage will go to crap after about 15 minutes of doing this, so be sure and put the fuse back in after the joy ride.

The governor is controlled by the ecu which is the computer brain. The only way to remove it is to reprogram it. This is very easy. Just buy you a chip for your exact year, make, model, and engine size. After you get it just install it into your engine ecu.

If its the same as a 1993 model its on the sterring column right above where the pedals are and a bear to get to.. there are 2 screws make sure you disconnect the battery.

For starters, you should never bench test the fuel pump. I had a friend in my shop once who thought he was a mechanic, my fuel pump wasn't kicking on so he decided to "bench" test it while i wasn't looking, and it ruined the pump. The pump should never be run dry. Mine turned out to be some bad wiring and a fusible link, but these problems are very hard to diagnose. A lot of looking, a lot of replacing, and a big pain.

Does your 1986 Chevy Celebrity have the 2.5L 4 cylinder engine or the 2.8L V6?

if it has the 350 CI engine it has 250 HP @ 4400 RPM

if its the 305 CI engine it has 235 HP @ 4200 RPM

i have the same camaro but have a carbed 350 in it. the only way to bypass the security system is to jump two wires on the neutral safety switch attached to the gear selector. ull have to take the whole center console apart. its the top wire on the plug i think its green, and the blue 1. hope that wrks 4 u. wrks 4 me.

No.

The Main difference Between the 1969 Camaro Rally Sport and Super Sport were the standard option's and performance features, An example of this would be the SS Cowl Hood and the RS witch came with a standard flat hood Also the RS did not come standard with even a V8 engine and the optional RS engines were limited to the 6 Cylinder, The 307 V8, the more powerful Z28 DZ-302 V8, the 327 V8 (only in 67' and 68') and the 350 V8. Where as the SS came standard with the 350 V8, and optional 396 Turbojet V8 wich came in three different performance levels a 325 HP, a 350HP, and a 375HP versions were available also the rare all steel 427 Big Block V8 was an option at around 390HP. Also a car enthusiast comapany called YENKO offered a very special Yenko COPO- SS camaro with an aluminum 427 Big Block rated at 426 Horsepower.

Check on this web site: http://tss.likeabigdog.com/ Very detailed pictures and instructions.

with everything stock, somewhere in the area of 8.6 seconds i think..

Kinda hard to describe but I did it on a 1992 E150 with the straight six fuel injection because the oil pan rotted out. (Ford was famous for oil pans rotting out.) I did it in my driveway with my brother. I drove the truck front end on strong ramps. I had the new gasket kit and a new oil pump since I was going to expose it and it had about 100,000 on it. We took of the inside front engine cowling cover, or whatever you call it inside the van. (You know the thing that catches your spilled coffee and holds all the junk you have in your hands or in you pockets as you get in the truck?) We loosened the motor mounts and the trans bracket so the engine could be jacked up. We actually took a hydraulic jack and a 2x4 and put the 2x4 under the front crank at the harmonic balancer. WE jacked up the engine until it touched the top of the engine compartment. We would watch that we didn't pinch any hoses or lines. We had to move some things around a bit to do it and even after having the engine up we still had to wiggle and twist and gently force the pan out. (Of course we lossened all the bolts on the pan) We changed the oil pump, for prophelactic measures, and put a stock one in. It was a little tough getting the new pan in, you know being careful not to damage it or the gaskets. And we worked together and did a fine job. Lowered the engine back down, resecured everything, filled it with oil and it was great. FYI. My old pan was so bad, my brother just gently pushed a screwdriver into the rusted area on the pan and he went right through it. So if yours is rusting on the outside and the paint is bubbling & peeling off. Leave it alone until your ready to change it out. Good Luck :) Frank

If miraculously the pan gasket remains intact you do not need to worry about changing it. However being a 91 it will most likely break or be to hard to re seal and therefore need to be replaced.

Chevy never made the camaro in 09.

If you look on the right side of the throttle body where the air intake tube goes in the manifold there is a black part with two bolts and a connector on top. It is right by the throttle cable. its about the size of clenched fist.

my vent doors are not working in my 92 camaro. the heat will blow hot or cold but only on def

There is not dash "pad". It is a one piece instrument panel.

first drain you coolent liek half way then pull your valve covers pull your intake disconnect your exhaust system from your heads then simply undo the 17 head bolts and then wiggle and pull and then should pop right off but be carefull because there is a coolent crossover on the rear of the heads that breaks very easily so you'll need to people unless you can get the bolts loose for the crossover its a pretty big job but if you know what your doing it can be done in a weekend