Chevy Camaro RS

What year and what tranny would help us help you.

If it's turning over slowly but eventually starts, there is more than likely a problem with the battery. It may be drained down or discharged. You can perform a battery test on it to ensure that there is sufficient voltage and Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) to start the vehicle. It also would be good measure to perform a charging system test to be sure that the alternator is charging enough. If it was a fairly new battery, you may have to do a parasitic draw test to be sure that something isn't sucking juice out of the battery when it shouldn't be. Hope this helps.

If you didn't put it back on right or maybe left something off like the rotor, sure.

Answer

There's no doubt that you have a bare wire somewhere and every once in awhile it grounds against a bare piece of metal and the stereo won't work and your power windows either. The solution to this would be to go to a special garage that handles only electrical problems in cars, as they have the equipment to find a bad ground or a short.

A Head gasket seals the Cylinder Head 2 the block & could cost 20 or 30 Dollars 4 a weed wacker & 40 2 50 GRANG 4 a LARGE B0at

After sitting so long, you could have a bad battery, bad plugs, a bad fuse, bad gas, sludge in the carburetor if there is one, clogged injectors. These places are a where to start.

could be several places, power steering hose, rack and pinion (or steering gear box) or power steering pump.

there is a control module under your dist cap try that they seem to have problems with that I don't think it's the fuel pump. If you try to jump-start the car and it starts fine then it's definitely not the pump. case 1: If you turn the key and nothing happens (the starter doesn't crank the engine), and after a few minutes (up to about 30) it cranks without effort, then it may be a faulty starter solenoid. It's located on top of the starter, very close to the exhaust manifold and thus getting lots of heat. Change the solenoid or get a remote solenoid and locate it in a colder place. case 2: If you turn the key and nothing happens or the starter cranks the engine with great effort, and after cooling down it cranks at normal speeds, it may be a worn starter. Rebuild the starter.

I have a 1991 Chevrolet Camaro RS, and I had the same problem. If the check engine light comes on, it could be the distributor cap and rotor. As for the stopping and sputtering of RPM's, it could be the fuel pump. I replaced my distributor cap and rotor and got a new fuel pump, and my car is working amazingly. Hasn't stalled or sputtered yet! Try that

You need a new battery or it has a battery cable connection problem. The battery needs a full charge too - like driving around for an hour to charge it back up. A voltmeter is useful to read battery voltage when cranking. 12.6 volts =full charge. When cranking it may drop to 10 volts. If the starter won't turn over use the voltmeter to check for the 12 volts on the battery and then starter battery cable connection point.

hm....try checking your ignition timing (or getting a mechanic to do it) with a timing gun. Also try checking the EGR Valve

yea if u shove them up ur butt

Might have to wait until 2011

there are 2 crankshaft sensors on that engine. one is located in the back of the engine, the other is near the crankshaft pulley.

It may be in the tank "but" you can order a fuel pump from a company called python premium fuel injection products. They have a fuel pump that looks like a fuel filter but in reality is a electronic fuel pump made to work with all fuel injected camaros v8 or v6 and comes with the low low price of under $90.00 instead of the ridiculous price of $500.00 . I was so happy to see this on the net that I thought I should share the info with others . Good luck everyone !!!No more dropping the tank !!!

yes the pump is in the tank

if you are changing the ignition cylinder you need to remove the steering wheel and dig down to the lock cylinder that way. do becareful you will need a special tool to reinstall components under steering wheel. I had to replace mine when the wire broke that reads the chip in the key The special tool he is speaking of is called a spring depressor.

Battery Or The Terminals Are Not Making Good Contact And Need To Be Cleaned. I Would Test This First. Next Your Starter Could Have A Few Problems. Worn Bushings, Brushes, Weak Armature, Solenoid. Ect. Check Out Your Battery And Battery Terminals. This May Take Care Of It. One Other Thing Have Your Alternator Tested. You Can Have This Done At Most Garrages Without Removing It. In order to correct a problem, you MUST KNOW WHAT IS CAUSING THAT PROBLEM. This requires an analysis of the symptoms, and an understanding of how components operate in order to first eleminate all those things which COULD NOT cause the symptoms. Then continue to eleminate, one by one, the other components which COULD cause the symptoms. If I understand your question, you say that when "you "'jump' the starter, it fires right up..." Since you didn't mention otherwise, I have to assume you used the battery in the vehicle to jump the starter. This suggests SEVERAL things: 1. There is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WRONG WITH THE STARTER, not bushings, brushes, or weak armature. IF ANY of these were the problem, then "jumping out the starter" would not cause it to "fire right up..." 2. The same is true for "checking the battery." The battery is fine, or "jumping' the starter would not fire it right up. Also, to jump, requires clamping a jumper cable[s] onto the battery terminal cable clamp[s] which are clamped onto the battery terminal posts, suggesting that there is nothing wrong with either the terminal posts, or the connection of the terminal clamps to the posts. 3. Since the battery is in good strong shape [obviously, as it cranks the engine, and "it fires right up"], there is NOTHING WRONG WITH THE ALTERNATOR. There is no need to have the alternator tested, unless you just feel like taking the time, and spending the money a garage will charge. Now, let's analyze what COULD cause the ONLY symptom you mention: "...turn the key and NOTHING happens..." Consider WHAT turning the key DOES. On your vehicle, turning the key completes a circuit from the battery positive terminal post to the start terminal in the ignition switch, then via a small wire to a small terminal on the starter solenoid on the starter. Then current is fed through the coil [activating the coil] inside the solenoid to ground, and thence back to the negative terminal post on the battery. When the solenoid coil is activated, it becomes an electromagnet, which pulls the plunger in, which does two things: 1] engages the starter gear teeth into the teeth on the engine flywheel, and 2] closes a very heavy duty contact switch inside the solenoid which connects the positive battery terminal [via a heavy cable (positive)] to the starter winding, causing the starter to turn, cranking the engine. SINCE NOTHING HAPPENS when the key is turned, it is concluded that the problem is an "OPEN CIRCUIT" condition in this circuit [battery positive terminal to starter solenoid. Ther are several things which could cause such an open circuit: 1. A broken or cut wire. 2. A disconnection at any terminal[s] in the circuit. 3. A failed fuse or fusible link in the circuit. 4. A failed, defective contact within the ignition switch. 5. A broken wire [very small] in the coil winding inside the solenoid. The next step is to use a multi-meter or test light to check for and confirm the presense of 12 volts at the small wire terminal [coil terminal] ON the starter solenoid. To make this test, the STARTER SWITCH MUST BE HELD IN the START position WHILE the test is being made. IF there IS voltage AT THIS TERMINAL, when the key is in the START position, then the failure, and your problem, IS INSIDE the STARTER SOLENOID. IF there is NOT 12 volts in the above test, then the problem is an open somewhere else in the circuit, somewhere between the battery positive terminal and the coil terminal on the solenoid. The next step is to use the multi-meter or test light to check for 12 volts at the input terminal on the ignition switch. If there is NO voltage there, then the "open" in the circuit is between there and the positive terminal on the battery. If there IS voltage there, then check for voltage at the OUTPUT terminal ["Starter" TERMINAL] of the ignition switch, WITH THE IGNITION SWITCH HELD IN THE "START" POSITION. If there is voltage there, the ignition switch is OK, and the open circuit problem is in the wire between the ignition switch and the solenoid coil terminal. All of this is very tedious and time consuming, THAT'S WHY auto service work at a shop is so expensive. There is another way to approach the solution to this problem. I call it the "SHOTGUN METHOD," and consists of simply replacing components [ignition switch, starter solenoid, and starter] until the problem goes away. There are TWO FLAWS in this approach: 1. It is VERY EXPENSIVE TO UNNECESSARILY REPLACE these parts, and 2. After doing so, if the problem is NOT SOLVED, then that tells you the problem is an open in the wiring circuit, and you STILL HAVE TO TROUBLESHOOT the entire wiring circuit.

send me your password and rs account name to rileyt12@aol.com i have very good bots i make 4.3m every 8hours i leave it running for 42hours then a 2hour break then turn back on and repeat i will let u get on and see progression in skills and money if youd like

Unless there is an access panel inside the trunk, then the answer is yes. Sadly, yes. In my 1996 Achieva it cost me about $700 to drop the tank and replace the pump. I was ripped off, I know, but the tank needs to be removed to get to the pump.

Yes. It's the same as saying, "Complete the RS row, then you are ready to start new on the WS".

It confused me too the first time I saw it in a pattern! So remember:

'end on RS (or WS, depending on pattern)'=knit that row.

Hope that helps!

If you do it won't be a camaro anymore....

Two ways:

1. Get a small carburetor screwdriver (about $20 at Cycle Gear, I think). Its only about 1" long and has a couple flat head attachments and a Phillips attachment. You slip the screwdriver head into the bottom of the carb, where the air fuel mixture screw is. You adjust in til it starts to die out, then back out little by little (1/16 turn at a time) til it's at its highest idle. It take a bit of time. Be in a quiet place, lean your head against the seat and close your eyes (sounds corny, but I'm serious). You feel/hear the idle speed more exactly this way.

2. Get an aftermarket screw for this bike. It's longer and has a knurled end so you can turn it with your fingers while the bike is running. I think it's about $20.00. Also - go to Thumpertalk.com they are a great resource for 4 stroke dirtbikes, and alot of people have the Yam 250f because it's a great bike. Not sure if I can do a link, but here's a link that discuss this carburetor. '

http://www.transworldmotocross.com/mx/how_to/article/0,13190,589502,00.HTML

here's a link to "Zip Ty " brand fuel screw, but there are alot of other brands. Check your local moto shop.

http://www.ziptyracing.com/products/product_detail.aspx?id=MTEwMQ==

loosen the alternator