Chevy Camaro RS

Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from radiator Follow the upper radiator hose to engine compartment - should end at thermostat housing Remove 2 mounting bolts Remove housing Clean both surfaces Replace gasket Re-Install housing Re-fill coolant slowly to prevent "airlock" Start engine Watch for leaks Run engine to normal operating temperature with heater on Check coolant level

Usually 1" or 1 1/16". A deep well thin wall socket will work on most vehicles. Lisle Tool # 13250 or KD Tool # 3458 will get it done on GM Vehicles

ok .. if you open hood and look to ur right in the back where your spark plug wires connect that's where you ignition coil is .. mark all 6 wires whit the number coil it is hooked up to then remove all 6 sparg plug wires from the coils ....

now the easiest way is to take the whole icm and coilss out to replace then other wise have small tools to fit ... any way ... theres 2 bolts to the left of the coil packs and one conected down but your egr ... take those out .. not u have more room to work ..... unbolt the coil by the 2 bolst one on each side then carfully lift straight up and replacing is same as remove... hope i helped

Steve

No

Your car might turn off when you come to a stop because the car has an electrical problem or a problem with the distributor. It might also turn off when you come to a stop because of a timing issue.

check ball joints or tie rods. ----

It is a common problem on all windstars. Ford has 3 service bulletins out covering this problem.

First, it could be ball joint or tie rod ends, as the other user stated. So remove the outer tie rod end and then pushing the wheel from side to side and see if the nose is no longer there.

It can be from rocks & debris building up between the strut mount and body and rubbing when the wheels are turned. It can be due to a strut mount bearing failing, causing the strut to rub on the mount when turning. This is the most common and replacing the strut( if its due) and putting in new strut mounts will often get rid of it.

It can be due to the rubber in the strut mount shrinking, letting the top of the strut rub on the body, this will cause it to make noise when its cold outside and it may go away when the weather warms up. It can also be air traped in the power steering system due to a bad design.

Ford sells thin strut spacers about 1/8" thick that give more space between the body and strut mount. If you replace the mounts and they still rub inside the strut tower you may need these.

They also sell new spring insulators, that may help the spring from rubbing on rocks and debris that may build up. And they have a redesigned power steering line that will help quite noisy power steering systems.

First thing is disconnect the negative battery cable and the relieve the fuel pressure to the fuel rail. Then remove the upper plenum to expose the fuel rail and remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and the 2 bolts attaching it to the lower plenum. You then gently pry the fuel rail up with an easy rocking motion and your injectors will come out of the intake manifold.

Bumble Bee is a paint job. You can bumble bee any car. Traditionally it's a yellow with black stripes.

Now, the "Bumble Bee" is the transformer from the cartoon and movie. In the movie he was a Chevy camaro.

My car is a Bumble Bee and it's a 96 mustang gt convertible.

Bumble bee was actually originally a mustang gt when drawn out, but the but ford refused to allow there logo to be shown in anything other then the transformers comics, so they kept the shape of the mustang and changed it into a comaro, Chevy comaro is now being called the bumblebee car, even tho truly, it is a ford mustang

Take the battery to a parts store so they can test it....

Actually you need to test both the battery and the alternator because if your alternator is not functioning correctly it can drain the battery of power...

so just testing the battery may only tell you that you have a drained battery and not reveal the cause...

This testing can be done using an Auto meter which tests the battery and also does an alternator load test...If you do not have a tester you can rent one from an auto parts store,or you can remove the alternator and take it to the auto parts store and have it bench tested along with the battery...usually for free...

its the same as the regular camaro i think its 215hp and 200ft lbs torque

there should be one fuse box between your driver side door and the side of your dash and there is another one under the hood of your car on the driver side

Overheating is a simply way of saying totaled, but for the engine.

If you overheat any engine, it will either catch fire, or it will blow up and then catch on fire.

During over heating, too many things go wrong. For more info or details e-mail me at Dream300ZX@gmail.com

This is not a fun task, especially if it is the driver side ( you have to remove plastic cover in front of battery).

To change headlamp: 1. remove round cover under hood(2.5 in diameter) 2. there is a little wire that crosses over the bulb. To remove, use finger and press at 1:00 position (toward front of car) and lift upward. the wire is hinged at the 3:00 position. 3. pull the bulb straight out. 4. unplug bulb from socket.

putting it back is a little tricky. make sure you dont touch then new bulb with your hands.

1. plug bulb into wire socket 2. re-insert back into headlamp housing hole. Make sure spring wire is out of the way of the hole. Make sure the flat bottom of the bulb housing is facing down. 3. look from the front to make sure bulb is flush. 4. make sure wires are out of the way of the back of the bulb. 5. while holding the bulb flush with one finger, swing the wire over the back of the bulb, raise up a little, then push in and down. This will hurt the hell out of your fnger, because you can only do this with one finger. It should lock in place. 6. If you are having trouble getting the wire to latch back in, it might be bent (flatten out). If it does get bent, bend it back a little. it should have a slight arc to it. I have done this so many times. It really is a piss poor design.

there is small bracket that bolts on the back of the pump to the block some pumps are missing a stud for that bracket also check the big horse shoe bracket that bolts to the front of the block that all the asscesiories bolt to it could be cracked causing the bracket in question to break

basically about 3,000 and lots of sex stained back seats/lol

see, that wasnt so hard

Ecm, control module Pukenstein@aol.com Also quite possibly an ignition control module. This is famous in most Ford and GM vehicles. Chrysler vehicles tend to have a problem with the "pick-up" assembly or the little black disc under the distributer cap. if it is fuel injected try checking the fuel pressure regulator Chrysler vehicles tend to have a problem with the "pick-up" assembly or the little black disc under the distributer cap.

No

There is no such thing as a 1992 IROC Camaro

To the best of my knowledge there isn't one. If you are driving with your foot on the floor(at the track of course!) and the car won't go any faster, that's probably all the engine can do. If you are talking about the governor in the transmission, it is located just ahead of the speedometer cable on the driver side. You will have to work the round cover out a little at a time going around the flange of the cover. Once the cover is removed, the governor is the winged device inside the bore. Pull on it allowing it to twist on the way out. To replace, coat the gear in fluid and slide back in. Strange, but the perfect install tool for the cover is the screw on top to an oxygen bottle. The diameter is perfect with the flange of the cover. A couple good taps from a large hammer will seat the cover without destroying the cover. Hope this is what you were looking for.

yea they are the same motors on the outside

5 x 4.75

You can remove the panel inside the back of the car. From there you can access your tail lights and your tag lights.