Chevy Camaro

I had these same symptoms on my 96 Z28 and it turned out to be a clogged transmission filter. The car would sputter a bit then it would not go at the stop sign. I turned off the car and let it sit for a few and then started it up again and it moved a few hundred feet then shaking, high revving and no go. Replaced the trans filter and fluid(very dirty) and all was well again. Hope this helps.

This question needs more info. Does it sputter like it is running out of fuel, or just die like it lost spark to fire the plugs? How long does it run? Does it die as soon as the key is released from the start position?

Drain the radiator and dispose of the fluid as it is toxic to animals. Take off the pump drive belt, and remove the fan. unbolt the water pump and pull it out. Install the new pump, and reinstall the fan and belt. Fill the radiator with fresh coolant.

if same year the frame of door will be same. but door pannel isn't same. you can make it work

two ways you can pull the engine out which sounds like a lot of work or take the motor mounts loose put a4x4 block on a jack raise the engine remove the pan bolts move the pan to one side and remove the oil pickup tube completely the work the pan out you still need lots of pactience then you haveto glue the gasket to the block and be careful not to move it when fitting the pickup tube back in

It is in the gas tank.

A 1991 RS came with a World Class T5 transmission

yes, even though they are different styles, (early 4th gen and newer 4th gen) you can swap front clip and make your 96 look like a 99 with no probs

get under the truck, under the cab you will find where the cable splits into one for each wheel and you will see the adjuster. cut the main cable and get a new cable and when you install it clean the pedal mechanism really well and REPLACE THE DAMNED HANDLE so this wont happen again

The chambers are 60cc. The heads are from 77-78 307 engine.

i put new plugs wires and coil packs on my 1997 camaro it kept putting out a random misfire code a couple months maybe 2 after i had put all this new stuff into that car that crankshaft broke

That's not too difficult to reach.

Get your compression up over 10:1, put some decent heads on it that have 180+ intake runner volume, 1-5/8" minimum exhaust headers, a fuel delivery system that moves at least 600-650 cfm, and call a cam manufacturer for a recommendation based on your application.

That should get 350 hp easy.

The stock V6 3.4 Liter has 160 and the 3.8 has 200.

There are four ABS sensors on a 1996 Camaro. They are otherwise known as Wheel Speed Sensors (WSS), so there is one on each wheel hub assembly.

Yes. First generation Camaro, 67-69, rear axles will fit under 55-57 Chevys. They are all the same width. You just have to change spring perches. The stock 55 E brake cables will work also.

I found the problem, one of the brake lines going to the rear wheels is leaking. :(

either a 700r4 automatic or a borg warner t5 manual

I had a 96 with a 3.8 and i believe it was on the left side of the engine, right into the valve cover. I do remember that it stuck out and had a 90 degree elbow on it. I suggest buying it, if you haven't, and trying to match the part up with something on that side of the engine. I hope that i have helped a little. On a 2001 V6 3800 series engine, the PCV valve is situated underneath a two-bolt cover located on the left (passenger) side of the engine (right next to the "3800 series" stamp!). In other words, it's right on top of the engine, easily accessible, and you'll use a 10mm socket for the bolts. Make sure the engine has cooled before you do the change (at least an hour after driving). If you still have trouble finding it, the cover is shaped somewhat like this <> and has "PCV" stamped in small print. The part costs under $4. This poster is correct, however, there is a gasket and this PCV Valve is under spring tension so slowly loosen the bolts, if your engine is like mine, the gasket material will have bonded, and it will require you to pry apart the cover from the plenum. Most importantly, lube the PCV when you fit it back into the spring, and make sure the O ring does not fall into the intake. There is an O ring at the bottom of the PCV valve, just simply remove with small needlenose pliers. Question : I am also trying to replace the PCV valve - but on a 98 Camaro 3.8 - I removed the two bolts on the top of the valve cover next to the 3800 series stamp on the engine. There is a spring inside there. The guy at AutoZone told me that was not the correct place. I put the small cover back on. After reading these comments I guess I was right. I am just concerned about the O ring, is that something that can easily fall inside? Also the new PCV valve didn't come with a new O ring, should it of?

Firing order is 1 2 3 4 5 6.

You need to remove the dash panel underneath the steering column. You will find the switch attached to the left side of the column with two 5/16" or 8mm screws. If you are sure it is the switch, you can go ahead and buy one so you know what it looks like, and know what to look for under the dash.

check for vacum leaks at any of the hoses. intake manifold.if this carb. check metering rod clearence. leaks at pcv. can cause a lot of problems you can also check timing.

could be the o2 sensor but most likely sounds like the spark plugs or wires look up misfiring on google

# Remove th enegative battery cable # Remove the filler cap from fuel tank # Drain all fuel from the tank into a clean container.Since there is no drain plug siphon the fuel out the filler neck # Raise the car and support it securley # Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the rear of the catalytic converter # Disconnect the rear exhaust pipe hanger and allow the exhaust system to hang over the rear axle # Remove the exhaust pipe and muffler heat shields # Remove the fuel filler neck shield # Remove the rear suspension track bar # Remove the rear suspension track bar brace # Disconnect the fuel gauge wire # Disconnect the tank ventilator hose,the fuel vapor hose and the fuel feed and return hoses from the sender assembly by loosening the hose clamps and pulling the hoses off # Remove the fuel line retaining bracket on the left side then remove the brake line clip from the bracket # Postion a floorjack under the rear axle assembly and raise it just enough to take the weight off the axle # Disconnect the lower ends of the rear shock absorbers # If equipped remove the rear stabilizer bar from the frame # Lower the jack under the axle enough to allow removal of the rear coil springs # Remove the fuel tank supporting strap bolts # Remove the fuel tank by rotating the front of the tank down and sliding the tank to the right

Remove inner door panel and check to see if anything is restricting movement or track is bent

about 117mph on a trailer behind a dodge pickup

To the dingbat who posted that - what is wrong with you? We have both the Iroc and a Dodge ram WITH A HEMI. For kicks we took them out on the road and RACED them - I'm sorry to inform you that the Iroc-Z SMOKED our Hemi Dodge Ram truck (it's a 2007 - brand new o.k.). Oh, my husband's Iroc-Z actually does 154 - I've seen it myself driving the car. SORRY! LOL

Heh, 154. Right... And I'm guessing that you wax it weekly, and this keeps cops' RADAR guns from working, because it's got "Such a sweet shine" to it as well?