Chevy Cavalier Z24

.045

8 ounces of PAG 46 ...replace the drier/accumulator and orifice tube as well.Flush out the condensor also. You can use PAG 100 (i have pag 100 in one of my 97's and itseems to put out better than the other 97 with pag 46, but we will have to wait and see which last longer) but a service bulletin came out a couple years ago from GM, telling the dealships to go to the pag 46....But, all pag oil is compatible with all pag oil. For example: 4 oz. of pag 50 + 4 oz. of pag 150= 8 oz. of pag 100... DONT USE THE PAG 150...IT IS JUST TOO THICK for this compressor....If you have a hard time getting it all inside the compressor,pour the remaining oil into the hose that goes from the drier to the compressor.(suction side...where you add 2-12 oz cans of 134a) Then turn it by hand about 12 revolutions.... And dont forget to evac the air from the system. A/C systems cost toooo much to cut corners trying to save 10 bucks.

in front of the passanger side rear wheel On the non Z24 1996 Cavalier it is located directly behind the gas tank in front of the spare tire well.

Turn the wheel so you can get to the 7mm screws on the front splash shield in the wheel weld.Remove those(appx.4 of them) There is 1 push-in fastener above the wheel.Then there are screws underneeth where the splash shield connects to the front bumper.(appx.6) Then there is a metal brace inside the bumper with 1 10mm screw. Next there are 2 screws at the top,right behind the blinker holding it to the fender. Across the front open the hood,between the head lights there are 4 push fasteners.Now do the same with the other side.Pull it strait forward to remove.Dont forget to unplug the front blinker lights before removing the bumper cover.

this is a cavalier we are talking about this is a tipical problem,try hitting the door panel,or remove the panel and hit the motor directly garaunteed the switch is fine its the window motor that's the likely cause,to be sure though you could check for power to and from the switch if good than make sure you have power to the motor just in case there is a wire broken in the door jamb/

in the transmission behind the engine toward passenger side mounted onto the transmission with one nut and has a plug with 2 wires in it. May be better accessible by removing passenger front wheel.

2 hours max....

In my case the switch to the defogger was fried and had to be replaced. I would first determine where the problem is, then get a haynes manual and see how hard it might be to fix the problem yourself. If you can't do it then take it to the dealer.

could be a # of things bad plugs, blown fuse, bad coil pack, or even a bad sensor.

5.25 rear 6x9 front

First clean the intake and decarbonize the valves and chambers. This is critical.

Now, install a flow-matched set of injectors.

Next, drill the exhaust manifolds and install O2 bungs and sensors to measure the O2 from each sensor.

Plug the sensors into your balancing computer and warm up the engine fully. Then run it on the dyno and look at the graph from the computer.

Utilizing the info from the graph, select a set of injectors that will complement the application's characteristics and install them in the appropriate positions.

Dyno the car again to verify that it's properly balanced.

i have not tested it yet but according to my math my 2000 z24 cavalier picks up 26 mph for every thousand rpm in fifth gear so if you took the car to 6 thousand rpm which is pushing it given wind factors and other variables your probably looking at 140 to 145.

Simply put.....NO

well if u want a stock engine that will match up it is the 3.1 fuel injected engine from the z24 if u are looking for something that will match up with the tras. u want a 3800 series supercharged fiero engine and if u want to do a complete over haul of the car u could prob fit a 350 in it if u were creative enough

I assume you mean the rear speakers(2 door)... Put some good ones in because you are not going to want to do this again. First remove the trim that runs down beside the front seats. Then remove the rear seat(bottom & backrest) remove the clothes hanger thing, remove the top anchor for the seatbelt, remove the interior sides of the rear seat quarter panels, remove the two plastic trim pieces on each side of the trunk entrance that was blocked by the fold-down rear seatback, lift up on the rear windshield dash....presto!!!! Now you can get at the speakers... The rear speakers were installed before the interior and back glass was put in. The front is just a matter of removing the inside door panel. Roll the window down. Screws at the bottom of the panel and hand hold for closing the door. Go ahead and remove that trim piece that covers the outside rearveiw mirror bolts. Carefully insert a screwdriver between the bottom of the door and door panel.There is a special tool for this job,and it is flat, but you can still use a screwdriver if you are careful. (WORKING ALONG THE BOTTOM) and pry out the plastic push pins.When it is free at the bottom, grab the door panel at the top on both sides and lift upwards in the direction where the window was before rolling it down to dislodge the metal clips along the top of the door panel and then unplug the electric door lock switch if equiped. When reinstalling the panel be real careful not to stab your new speakers with those push pins....It's not real easy if you have never done it before,but you can do it..... Good luck with your project

Key on, engine not running...41-47psi Engine idling...W/vac. hose attached 31-44psi. Enging idling..W/O vac. hose attached 42-50psi. These fuel pumps will stop working when they get hot and start working when they cool off. Just let it idle a little while while watching the pressure guage to see if pressure drops out when the stalling problem occures. Crankshaft position sensors CAN act the same way when they go out.

You have a serious problem here. This will cause permanent engine damage. It could be a bad fuel pressure regulator, or one or more injectors are bleeding off when you stop. Fix ASAP !

i found the problem - loose wires in the harness

If it is not on the bottom of the radiator, then just remove the lower radiator hose to drain the system.

Horse power is a rating on the motor, it has nothing to do with the transmission.

Start by removing the sun visors with a 35 torx driver. Pull off the front pillar plastics, twist you rear view mirror outta the way, Gently pull down the front of your head liner, trying not to crease it. On the sunroof motor were the wire actually raps and unwraps theres a spot for an Allen key (metric). Close the sunroof using this. Start by replacing the switch and magnet if you can, if the don't work replace the motor, i had to replace the motor, available at your local auto wreckers for about $20.

it is located on the transmission just inboard of where the passenger side drive axle enters the transaxle

the map sensor is located on the firewall to the right of the blower motor a small square box with two screws 2 minute job.

600cc is a measurement of displacement, or space within the cylinder(s). Horsepower is a different measurement, which measures available power at given revolutions per minute (RPM). A 600cc motorcycle could have a horsepower rating from 5 to over 100, depending on the manufacturer and year of the vehicle involved.

This question has been answered many times, but once again....No....except if you want a big project...yes...MANY things will HAVE to be tended to. You will have to change transmissions,exhaust systems,engine wire harness,computers,instrument clusters and dash wiring, CV axles,all plumbing(ie...radiator hoses,heater hoses,transmission lines,emission lines and tubes..ect) and MANY more not listed. So you will need lots of items from the parts car,but if you get a parts car,WHY not get one that you can drive as is and save yourself a lot of time and money?