Chevy Cheyenne

The THM200C does not use a vacum line. It has a cable that tells it when to shift.

Stick a small screwdriver or other thin object into the inside of the ring around the interior door handle to pry the clips.

No.

Go to your Chevy dealer and have the parts department print out a copy for you. If you are having trouble with the fan speeds, this is often the blower resistor located behind the glovebox. Get a new one at a Chevy dealership. About 20.00.

It has 8 wheel studs and nuts that hold the wheel on a 2500 / 3/4 ton.

There is 6 on the 1/2 tons.

I got a 93 Chevy pickup and the same engine . I only got 1 O2 sensor and it cost me 60 dollars. it is on the exhaust right before the catylic converter. They go two different kinds of them . I was replacing mine and the gave me the wrng ne because mine has 3 or 4 wires. and the one the gave me only had one.

its either ur timing belt or ur sparkplug wires r wrong

You will need what is called an L.O.C., which is a line output converter. It is used to convert speaker lines into an RCA output. Some LOCs are available for OEM intergration, which are very expensive, and then some are available for OEM intergration, but aren't to OEM specs, as they are universal LOCs, such as the Scosche SLC4, which is available for $20 from Crutchfield.com

If it's a 1/2 ton 4L60E Trans.

............... 3/4 ton 4L80E Trans.

You need to remove axel and hub assy. again. And look at where the seal rides on the axel housing itself. they make a seal repair sleeve that drives over the axel housing to fix this problem. Clean and sand housing real good before you install sleeve. Need to check VENT TUBE on rear end housing to make sure its open and not stoped up. pull rubber hose off. You should be able to blow through it , but not suck thrugh it. Make sure the medal tube that the hose goes on is open too.

When you add gear oil , don't fill it up to the fill hole, keep it about 1/2 inch below

the fill hole.

If Your sure this is a true full floating rear end then this will fix it.

Be sure to use GM FACTORY SEALS ONLY

if it is the headlamp switch acting up you're better off replacing it. I've repaired mine but the fix doesn't last. replaced the switches on 2 different trucks (97 and 99). A simple job, 1 or 2 hours but the switches cost about 110 dollars. It is usually the wire to the headlamps that gets loose causing a high resistance connection and heats up enough to burn the plastic. good luck

Engine blow-by
Excessive engine wear
Bad piston ring

Not much info at mortec. It is a 350, made from 80-85. Can be either 2 or 4 bolt mains.

There may be too many to list. If you are trying to cross reference a wheel to see if it will fit a certain vehicle there are several online sites where you can look up wheel bolt patterns.

Behind the passenger side Glovebox.

Hi, I have an 1988 Coupe Deville with same issue. Did you ever find out how?

between the front grill and the a/c condensor in the upper a/c line

Engine compartment gas leak. Repair immediately.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=S001&UserAction=viewSimpleDiagInfo&Parameters=info

**When this suddenly happened to us, my husband found that the oil filler cap had popped off. Luckily it was still under the hood, and as soon as he replaced it, the problem cleared up.

no sorry they are cast iron.

Simply remove the taillights and tap into the harness on each side as required. Then just run the wires along the molding then behind the bumper skin to the bottom near your spare tire.

Remove cowling from under the steering wheel, remove the two nuts holding the wheel coloum. Drop the steering coloum. Ignition switch is about a foot down on the left side. Unhook the wires remove switch replace. P.S. Unhook battery cables high voltage in ignition system.

A 5.7 is a 350. Vortec is basically the type of head used.

First I'd check valve adjustment, and the valves themselves to see if they are hanging open because they are either overtightened or damaged. Hopefully the problem is with the valvetrain because if it isn't, there is a good chance you have had a catastrophic engine failure, like holes in the pistons, a severely cracked block or cylinder head, etc. A bad head gasket is a possibility, but blown head gaskets rarely effect 3 cylinders (it's usually only one, or two adjacent cylinders) and rarely result in ZERO compression. The best case scenario would simply be overtightened valves because if no damage has been caused by them it's an easy fix that costs virtually nothing to fix. It is also the least likely culprit unless the valves were recently adjusted as a result of an engine rebuild or repair. If you (or someone else) just adjusted the valves due to repairs or a rebuild, it's definitely the first thing to check because it would be the most likely under those circumstances. Also check to make sure the camshaft is actually turning and opening/closing the valves. If it isn't, you will have at least three cylinders with valves hanging open, thus zero compression.

The first Cheyenne series pickup truck was manufactured in 1971.

For an automatic a Turbohydramatic (THM 350) should fit the bill. If you find a THM 400 it is a bit stronger with a shorter first gear for quicker launches. Manuals you're gonna have to match to the year, but you should be able to find many 3, 4 and even 5 speeds. whoever said that the thm400 is stronger is a bit retarder b/c i ran a turbo 400 in my race truck for two weeks and it basically stripped all the gears out of it and blew it to pieces... i was told to try the thm350 and after the new 350 transmission has been in the 800 rear wheele hp truck i have had no problems even running it on the street every once in a while.... the 350's are notoriously stronger even though the 400's were designed to be stronger and faster with the shorter first gear the 350is an all around better pick