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Chevy Colorado
Includes information and repair questions about Chevrolet Colorado model cars
1,058 Questions
What are car stereo wiring color codes for Chevrolet Colorado?
Left front= gray and tan
Right front= dark green and light green
Left rear= yellow and brown
Right front= dark blue and light blue
How do you Change a fuel pump on Chevy Colorado?
Drop fuel tank or remove bed 08 Colorado 4x4 automatic crew cab
How do you safely disable seat belt alarm or chime in a Chevrolet Colorado?
i have a 2004 Chevy col, and my chimes and seat belt make NO NOISE.
the person before me took out the factory radio, and the chimes, and seat belt buzzer, ran through the radio.
How do you change the starter on your trooper?
Buy yourself a Hayne's or Chilton's repair manual at any auto parts store. Here you will find the info you are looking for.
Where is jack on 2007 Colorado ext cab?
Look between the back seats at the cup holder. There is a plastic handle that turns, remove the cup holder. The jack is inside the metal supports. The jack extensions and lug wrench are under the passenger front seat.
Can you fit 285 60r 18 tires on a 2003 Chevy Silverado z71 without trimming?
Yes you can. Those tires are approx 31.38 inches tall and 11.54 inches wide. Chevy used a 265. 70 R17 as an option on these and a 285 70 R17 fits with no prob. This tire is 11.5 inches wide and 32.8 inches tall. You may need a leveling kit for the front which repositions the torsion bar locations and levels the front with the rear to correct the nose dive found on all those trucks. You can find dozens of kits on a google search and can be installed in an hour and a half. Good luck
How do you change a starter on a 1999 Toyota Tacoma?
I found that removing the driver side front wheel was the best way to gain access to the starter which is right there. After removing the bolts there was a lot of twisting to get it out.
Howdy Motorheads, I just emerged from garage after finally removing starter from the V6 model '99 Taco 4WD. This is a time consuming and sometimes frustrating job. Took me 4 days working on and off. Starter is buried deep with very little working room. The above suggestion left by another contributor is for the 4 cylinder. The following steps are for the V6 version.
AFTERTHOUGHTS:
The downside of remanufactured aluminum components is the threaded holes you will depend on to bolt the starter back in place. I suspect better remanufactuers are doing the right thing and using threaded steel inserts. For my $100 Ultima reman. starter they just left the threaded holes in the housing flange as is. Those threads proved to be well worn. The Toyota tech manual for this vehicle gives a torque value of 29 ft. lbs. Mine would hardly take 15 ft. lbs. I snugged them up best I could and will hope for the best.
I hope the remanufacturing community hears this. USE THREADED STEEL
INSERTS!
In the aftermath, I wish I had piled down and got the $220 Toyota reman. starter. Motorheads, even with all the bad press that Toyota has gotten I strongly suspect that the quality control at Toyota remanufacturing sites is heads above what you will find at Mexico based after-market remanufacturing plants.
Note: My Toyota dealer could not find a quote for a brand new starter. I suspect those all go to the new vehicle assembly line.
Those of you that just like to wrench but have the dough, skip all the following and just go to the dealer or local mechanic and HAVE IT DONE FOR YOU. This was not an enjoyable job.
FOR HARDCORE MOTORHEADS START HERE:
I suggest that you remove the old starter first.* The steps follow.
*I suggest this so you can take the top starter mounting bolt with you when you look for a reman. starter and test the threads prior to purchase. Clean off the tiny hunks of aluminum stuck in the threads of this bolt with a wire brush first. You should be able to screw the bolt all the way in with your fingers. They should feel like normal threads allowing full insetion. This said, carry on Motorheads.
No real need to remove right front tire and rubber mud shields. If you do you will get another view, might be helpful.
1. VERY IMPORTANT: Disconnect negative lead to battery. Insulate it and tuck it away. We don't want any arcing and welding do we? NO!
2. Remove both metal mud shields from bottom of truck.
3. Starter is under exhaust manifold on passenger side. Disconnect the big wire from the starter. It is held on by 12 mm nut.
4. Disconnect the smaller multi-wire connector from starter. You have to squeeze and pull on connector. Don't pull on the wires.
5. There are 2 bolts that hold on the starter. Both are 14mm. Lower one is straight forward. For the upper I used a 1/2" drive ratchet, 1/2 X 3/8" adapter, two 3/8" X 6" extensions, a 3/8" universal joint and a 14 mm socket.
6. Now you have a loose starter. If you are real good at Rubik's cube you might figure out how to get it out in one piece. I was not that smart. So, after 2 days of trying I split the old starter into 2 pieces.
7. Remove the 12 mm nut holding on the wire that goes from solenoid half to the armature half.
8. There are 2 long bolts that mount the armature and frame to the starter solenoid housing. Use an 8 mm socket to remove them.
9. Carefully remove armature and frame from the solenoid unit. The armature and frame assembly will try to separate into two pieces if you pull from the end. Carefully remove it in one piece.
10. Now you have 2 smaller pieces that will come out the bottom without having to move brake lines or headers, etc. Bolt them back together and go claim you core refund. You earned it!
11. The installation is basically the reverse of the above steps.
12. Take your "new" reman. starter and remove the nut holding the wire connecting the armature and solenoid unit and remove the wire. Remove the two long bolts holding the armature and frame to the solenoid unit. Remove the armature unit from the solenoid unit. Again take care with the threads. I used duct tape to keep the armature housing from splitting into two pieces.
13. Put the two starter pieces up into the that tight place under the exhaust manifold and then reassemble. Again take care with the threads. I suspect that some nickle based anti-sieze compound on the bolt threads might stiffen up over time and provide a bit more integrity to the threaded unions.
14. Mount the starter with the two bolts. Again, use nickle anti-sieze on the threads. Tighten carefully while taking care to sense the strip point for the threads. The recommended 29 ft. lbs. may not be achievable.
15. Reconnect the small multi-wire connector, then the big wire.
16. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
17. Take a deep breath and crank it over. If the engine starts, YOU BE THE MOTORHEAD!! Pour a beer and come back tomorrow.
18. The next morning look at the garage floor and bolt back on all the left over bits and mud shields.
19. Roll on Motorheads, you be finished.
*** NOTE ***
While following the above suggestion on my 1999 Tacoma 4x4 V6, I stumbled upon a removable access panel behind the rubber splash shield in the passenger side wheel well. Before trying the above suggestion, remove the rubber splash shield inside the front passenger wheel well and see if there is a removable access panel behind it! If it is there just remove the 5 10mm screws and remove th starter, it will save a lot of time and frustration.
My wife's truck had the same problem with the AC only staying on when set on high. She found that she could kick under the glove box and the other setting would work. She brought her truck in under warranty and they just told her that it was a loose wire. I'm not sure what they did but it worked for a month or two and then went back to not working. Many months later...I inspected under the glove box and found that one of the pins on the connector connecting to the Delphi AC unit's harness was burned almost all the way through and was only making intermittent contact. As soon as I forced the wires to touch the ac worked but the wires got red hot and burned my hands. I found that if I just disconnect that part of the harness the "high" setting will still work but not the others. The truck is now out of warranty and we are leaving the harness unplugged so as not to cause any more failures in her electrical system due to the short or whatever it is. In short, our problem has something to do with a short or something that burned up our harness and it is now only making intermittent contact. I'm not sure if you have the same defect cause as us but it wouldn't hurt for you to check.
I have a 2005 Chevy Colorado and I have had the same problem. Chevy has had problems with the original wire harness and now offer a new one that corrects the problem. I had to replace the blower, harness, and the blower resistor connection which cost just under 400.00 installed. From everyone I have talked to this has been a pretty big hassle for all Colorado owners and Chevy has never mentioned a recall. I don't think I will be buying another Chevy anytime soon.
What would cause a rough idle on a 1994 silverado 5.7?
Clogged fuel filter Failing fuel pump Dirty plugs Failing plug wires Dirty Air Filter
What causes wet front floors mainly on the driver's side of a 1996 Pontiac Grand Am?
About 90% of the time, I've traced this problem to a leaking windshield. I've also traced it to a leaking door seals. Best way to find out would be get out the garden hose and gently have water run down the windshield and the driver side door from the roof area while having someone watch inside with a flashlight. After a few minutes, the source should become apparant. Hope you find your problem.
What size tires should you put on your 2005 Chevy Colorado Z71 LS?
The correct size is listed on the driver's door post and in your owner's manual. It depends on if this is a 2wd or 4wd. If the tag is missing and you have no owner's manual, go to
www.tirerack.com
The proper size are p265 75 r15's.
Can you flat tow gm four wheel drive vehicles with the electronic transfer case unlimited distances?
No.. Short distances are fine.. Indefinite distances are a NO NO. The transmission and transaxle are designed to be lubricated properly with the engine runing and the gears meshed..
Freewheeling the drive train will prevent lubrication from covering all the moveable parts with enough design fluid pressure to be sufficient.. Also, all external seals require lubrication to stay plyable.. Freewheeling prevents the output shafts from spray-up lubrication and will eventually damage the seal lip due to overheating.. (From lack of lubricant)
How do you change the starter on a 94 eldorado?
If its the same as my 95 eldorado (4.6 northstar) you need to remove the intake manifold , the starter is in the valley pan.
How do you safely disable seat belt alarm or chime on 2006 Hyundai Sonata?
How about putting your seat belts on! If the chime is not going off when you put on the belts, take it back to the dealer.
-------------- Better Answer (for the 2007 - 2006 may be similar) - of course you should buckle up. But it nags even when your door is open or key in ignition, fast and loud. The 2009 model doesnt do this, and the dealer refused to lower the volume on my 2007.
I wouldn't recommend totally disabling it, but it is painfully loud . I finally broke down and removed it with the help of my neighbor, a mechanic. You have to remove the entire center console. There are also screws inside the storage compartment (lift the rubber liner) and on the sides. The shift knob screws off, then you lift the console out. Just a heads up, the wires wrapped in yellow tape are the airbags, no big risk. The chime is inside a small plastic box below\behind the cigarette lighter (approx 7 inches wide, remove and unsnap cover) The speaker is integrated with the circuit board. I don't recommend removing it - there are other vital items on the board. The speaker is surrounded a 1 inch deep plastic surround (part of the top cover). So, I put electrical tape directly on the speaker, and stuffed the surround with tire patches, then taped it and put everything back. Now, if you notice a few red lights, engine, etc after you put it back together, don't panic. You computer system will eventually do a self-test, mine reset after I drove for about 5 minutes and restarted the car. The muffled chime is now manageable to me. I can deal with it for at least 30 seconds if I must get in, out, or unbuckle. There you go! Oh, and those other posts about how if you disable it, it will disable the airbags are LIES according to my mechanic - they must have a separate circuit. But as I said, I can live with a quieter chime, and believe in seatbelts. Drive Safely.
