Chevy Corvette

I suspect they are like my 1999 Firebird. You have to go up from underneath. There is a panel that opens and then you have to reach in through that panel. When you feel the rear, twist it slightly and it will unlock and come loose. Be careful not to handle the new bulb. Oils from the fingers will mess it up.

You can also take the plastic cover off of your high and low beams and each down through the opening to get to the fog lamp. You really need a strong arm to do it this way, however.

I replaced mine OEM lamps (with sylvania silverstar bulb # 880ST) from the underneath on my 2000 firebird. After I got the panel open (2 fasteners) and twisted to remove the lamp holder, I found that the wiring was just barely long enough to get the holder clear of the opening. I did not jack the car up, and I suspect that it would make this much easier. USE JACKSTANDS! Also when reinstalling the new bulb I found it easy if I looked through the the lamp lens from the front. The socket is keyed so the lamp holder only goes in one way and about a quarter turn is all that is needed to lock the holder into place. Finally, DO NOT remove the screw at the top/front of the fog light lens. This is apparently an adjustment and if you remove this screw (as I did) then the spring which holds tension on the lamp assembly will fall out. It took more time to find and reinstall this spring and screw than it did to repalce both of the lamps!

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You can access the heater core from the passenger side kick plate in your 1964 Chevrolet Corvette. Remove the heater core water supply hoses. Remove the heater core retaining bolts. The heater core will come out.

Ifit has the c68 option (auto air) check the blower control module under the hood

The head bolt torque specifications for the 1986 Chevrolet Corvette is 200 pounds per square inch. The bolts should be torqued at 50 pound intervals.

430HP for the base model and 505HP for the Z06

it should be on the door lock motor on some early '91 models

The fuse block on Corvettes up to 1982 are in front of the driver's side kick panel in the dimmer switch area.

you can remove the front bumper and look for any manual release buttons on the front or check for and slots that's twist to open. but if that's too much work you can remove parts of the dashboard until you see the whole release problem and try to reconnect it.

in 1953, the Corvette featured the "Blue Flame" six cylinder engine.

because it didn't have a trunk

Base model, no options 55k. Most have option packs installed, they are called 1LT - Base model 2LT and 3LT. Cars with 2LT or 3LT raise the price between 61k to 68K. Most well equipped models are between 62k-65k

Stop by your local dealer and he will do it for just the cost of the batt. and you will not have to wait or worry about damaging the unit.

205 mph

Bore and stroke is 4 x 3.48 inches or 43.75 cubic inches per cylinder. the correct answer is 76 cc .

As usual, the exact info is in the manual, however if you have a Navigation unit, the time is set automatically based on the atomic clocks from GPS satellites. In other cases, you can set that when stationary by cyling through the instrument panel menus using the steering menu button (left side lower button) This menu usually says " settings can only be changed when stationary". Some settings may need you to press the ^v R buttons by the left side of the instrument cluster. hth, Vic

perhaps you overlooking the switch it self, it may be getting power but is not "transmiting" it.(switch is bad) or the wiring fro the switch to the motor.

1. Turn ignition off; 2. Ground ALDL terminal K by placing a temporary jumper between terminal A and K; 3. Turn ignition to "on"; 4. Wait for fault codes to begin flashing, then unground terminal K for approximately 3 seconds; 5. Then ground terminal K for 3 seconds; 6. Unground terminal K and wait 10 seconds; 7. Before turning ignition off, verify that only code "12" is flashing. If not, repeat these steps until only code "12" glashes.

I'M NOT SURE IF THIS WILL HELP.... BUT I WAS LOOKING FOR A WAY TO BRING THE BACK UP A BIT TO MAKE IT MORE COMFORTABLE FOR ME TO DRIVE. I'M 5'8" AND THE SEAT WAS RECLINED TOO MUCH FOR MY TASTE...YOU CAN BUY A 5/8 OD-3/8 ID FLEXIBLE RE-INFORCED HOSE AT HD/PLUMBING SUPPLY THAT HAS APPROX. 1/8" THICK WALLS.. YOU SPLIT THE HOSE DOWN THE MIDDLE... THEN PLACE A 2' SECTION ON THE BOTTOM SEAT BACK TO BRING IT UP ABOUT 1/8 "..THIS 1/8" MAKES A DIFFERENCE.... IF YOU WANT MORE TILT FORWARD AS I DID, ADD A PIECE OF 3/16" OR SO, WOOD BETWEEN THE HOSE AND THE BOTTOM SEAT BACK.... IT IS SNUG ENOUGH TO HOLD WELL, BUT YOU CAN TAPE IT IF YOU WISH........

try this:

Synchronizing Transmitters

Press the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter simultaneously for 7 seconds.

The horn will chirp once when the transmitter is synchronized.

Or this:

Programming Transmitters

Turn the ignition to ON.

Turn the radio to OFF.

Press the RESET button in order to clear any IPC warning messages.

Press and release the OPTIONS button on the DIC to scroll through the display options until the IPC display is blank.

Press and hold the RESET button for 3 seconds.

Press the OPTIONS button until FOB TRAINING message is displayed.

Press the RESET button in order to begin the programming sequence. The message HOLD LK + UNLK 1ST FOB will be displayed.

Simultaneously press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the first transmitter for 15 seconds. The IPC will indicate when that transmitter is programmed and when to proceed to the next. Repeat this procedure for each additional transmitter or press the OPTIONS button to exit.

If neither one of these procedures works it might be time to see a dealer. try this:

Synchronizing Transmitters

Press the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter simultaneously for 7 seconds.

The horn will chirp once when the transmitter is synchronized.

Or this:

Programming Transmitters

Turn the ignition to ON.

Turn the radio to OFF.

Press the RESET button in order to clear any IPC warning messages.

Press and release the OPTIONS button on the DIC to scroll through the display options until the IPC display is blank.

Press and hold the RESET button for 3 seconds.

Press the OPTIONS button until FOB TRAINING message is displayed.

Press the RESET button in order to begin the programming sequence. The message HOLD LK + UNLK 1ST FOB will be displayed.

Simultaneously press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the first transmitter for 15 seconds. The IPC will indicate when that transmitter is programmed and when to proceed to the next. Repeat this procedure for each additional transmitter or press the OPTIONS button to exit.

If neither one of these procedures works it might be time to see a dealer.

Behind the "loaf of bread" on the passenger side of the dash that says, "CORVETTE" on it.

10w-40.

For the rear plastic one, insert a thin blade screwdriver in the slots (two on each side of the frame about 1" from the top/bottom) and push back the tab while applying pressure to pull the frame away from the license plate. There are 4 snap tabs on the frame that just need to be pushed back to disengage from the body slots. Be careful, they're not very sturdy.

The above answer is apparently for the rear, but I'll leave it there. The question was for the front, so... the front C5 license filler has a wide tab at the top that slips up into a slot in the front nose. It is held up there by two small Phillips head screws at the bottom of the filler.

If you get on the ground and use a flashlight to look into the thin gap between the bottom of the filler plate and the bumper recess, you should be able to see a screw a couple of inches in toward the center from each lower corner.

Use a small Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws. Then you pull the filler plate out at the bottom just enough to clear the bumper and then pull it down to disengage the top tab.

If you need a new filler, the current part number for a GM replacement (unpainted) is 10288540. They are around $110. If you do a Google Shopping search for that part number, you should be able to take a look at some pictures of one so you can see the wide tab and 2 screw holes. There are usually some on E-bay.

Or, here's a picture I put in my album. Copy the link into your browser's address window and hit "enter":

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g302/porxter/corvettelicensefillerplates001.jpg

2,157 The 1965 Corvette L78 Option Code consisted of the 396 Cu. In. big block, a manual Muncie four-speed, a stout live rear axle, a big four-barrel Holley carburetor, transistorized ignition, heavy-duty suspension, half-shafts, and sway bars, and a bulge in the hood. All this added an additional $300 to the $4,300 price of the 1965 Corvette. Only 2,157 Corvettes were built with the L78 396/425 H.P.engine option.