Chevy Impala

There is a plastic cap at the base of the wiper arm. You will need to pry it up to reveal the nut underneath. Remove the nut and pry up. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT THE HIT THE WINDSHIELD WITH THE WRENCH.

You can buy a replacement or an aftermarket unit.

Unplug the harness connector. Disassemble the mirror by taking it off the window. Separate the plastic mirror housing at the seam. "Unstick" the pcb board from the mirror using a thin knife. Be careful not to damage mirror or circuit board. Remove any remaining double sided tape from the pcb board. Inspect the harness connection solder points for cracks. Resolder any joints that are cracked. Replace the double sided tape with some new tape and reassemble. Glue the seam back together carefully with super glue or equivalent. Reinstall.

It's cheaper in eBay it will run u for about 150. Now if u buy it in the autoparts store it could cost up to 350!

America Tires stores have done this for me w.o. charge several times and they manipulated the headlight switch to achieve this. Probably any tire store will do this for you for goodwill.

YES.....

where is the oil presure sensor on a 2006 chevy impala lx 3.5 v6 and how do i replace it pics or video please thanks

The turn signals and emergency flashers are both controlled electronically. The module is behind the emergency flasher switch and requires partial disassemble of the dash to access it There are several screws: 2 on the ends under the fuse covers 2 on the panel under the steering wheel and 2 by the odometer Gently pull the face off the dash. Don't break off the clips. A replacement is about $40 from the dealer.

You have to remove the driver and passenger side insulator panels. They come off with clips and a couple screws, Then take the dash off, there is a few screws around, then move the wheel to the lowest position and the shift to first, so you'll need the key in ignition, then pull off the dash from the retaining clips from right side to left then there's about 4 screws around the radio, unscrew them and disconnect the cables.

I just had a estiment 235$,120 for the radiator and 65 a hour for labor 1 hour and a half job so 235$ish

You have to take the blower motor aout to get access to the resistor. It is inside the "air tunnel". Once you remove the motor you'll see it attached to the front. I don't know who answered this question but they need to better understand the question being asked!!!!! Now do you really think the person asking this question knows where the "blower motor" is?????? I don't get it, why do people "assume" that everyone knows where everything is on any given vehicle????? If they did they wouldn't be asking where the fan resistor is now would they? The Blower Motor is under the glove box it is held in place by 3 screws. Remove the screws and look inside the airbox and you should see it. It's a bear to get it out. The resistor is up tight to the firewall. It has three screws and the back two are almost impossible to see or reach. Plan to stand on your head for a while.

It is located on the intake manifold near the thermostat housing.

See Back-Up Lamps on page 5-56 of your "Owner's Manual", under Section 5: Service and Appearance Care - Bulb replacement...

In answer to your question on interchanging hoods between 359 and 379 model Peterbilts, I would have to believe you can. Of course, that is providing the two trucks are either both standard or both extended hood variants and are of close to the same year (older Pete's had intake ducts coming from under the hood ahead of the air cleaner canisters, causing a notched hood like on a Kenworth W-900 to clear the ducting). The 379's and 359's were built using the same platform, with only a few specific differances. For example, the 359 had an embroidered quilted pattern on the interior door panels with a few western-like designs around it, where as the 379 had pretty much the same door panels that it did until the end of it's production. There were other slight differances to the exterior, such as primary reserve air tank location ( 379- under cab above battery box/ steps, 359- normally ahead of battery box or fuel tank, where the air dryer is located on the later model 379's). None of these differances however effect the hood itself. The dimentions and the mounting are the same. I have owned two 379's in the past and I now own a 1984 359 ext. hood which I restored to original factory specs using many 379 parts in fact, though the hood, as it were, was in good shape. My current project is a 1984 362 Pete cabover, and believe it or not, the doors and many other parts are the same as a 379 as well. It only made good business sense to make so many parts interchangable between models. It was not intended to be conveniant for us, but to lower production cost, rather than having to build everything separate per model. Good luck with your project and I hope I was of some help. -Brandon

the answer is NO. you may have no problem setting the front pins in the hindge, but the rear of these hoods vary. first, the 359 has cut outs where the air breather tubes lead into the engine compartment, the 379 does not have these. second, the lower part of the hood, near the back of the fender, though they look similar, each has a different configuration of supports to hold the back of the hood. if you love your peterbilt as i do mine, you will put the appropriate hood on it. after all, it is a peterbilt. my info comes from owning a 1987 359 ( #9 of the 359 made that last year) and a 1988 379exhd. hope this helps. outlaw379

(the answer is no) correct outlaw but it's not intake hoses or like branded talked about battery boxes,interior desine. the 379 cab was a new desine the cab is about 8" wider the ultra cab was wider and taller yet. it's nice you guy's can point the stuff that's out in the open, and knowledge on where air tanks and fuel tanks are and the battery box's are but simple answer to a simply question is no 379 hood is to WIDE. if you own a 359 then you know the joke about why there is no u in peterbilt..........there is no room for u and i. skbtrans

no no no you might as well try to hammer a mack hood on your pete! as for as the size of the cab on a 359...if she won't fit between the seats you don't want her under your sheets!!!!!

You have a leak somewhere. It could be leaking from the valve stem (where you fill the tire), from the bead (where the tire meets the rims), from the tire itself, or there is a slim chance there is a crack in the rim allowed air to escape.

You can purchase a couple cans of Fix-A-Flat or similar product and put them in the tires. Make sure that a)it is the non-flammable kind and b)you follow the directions on the can carefully.

put a new PCV valve in if it's bad.

Yes, as long as the hole pattern is the same. You should also check the offset, or how far the rim center is from the edge. You can keep the speedometer reading true by selecting 15" tires that have the same diameter as the 16" tires that you are replacing.

It is in the gas tank.

If the fuel filter is clogged, it will act like it is running out of fuel. It can also cause the fuel pump to fail. The clogged filter will overheat the pump and destroy it.

behind the alternator near the firewall about 3" down

Dexron Mercron ATF type II/III is the recomendation for the fluid. There should be a sticker on the PS reservoir or bracket stating that as well. An SAE engine oil is also acceptable, however it will result in a more "dirty" system and not behave as well under high temperatures.

P0742 means that your torque converter clutch circuit (TCC) is or was stuck on. In other words, the lock-up torque converter was engaged when it wasn't supposed to be.

The torque converter uses transmission fluid at lower speeds to transfer motion from the part of the transmission connected to the engine to the parts of the transmission connected to the drive shafts. This is what allows you to stop your car at a stop light without having the car die.

When the torque converter engages ("locks-up"), a clutch engages, creating a mechanical connection that makes both parts move together more efficiently at higher speeds (above ~49 mph). This allows you to get better gas mileage on the highway, since the fluid coupling is not very efficient at those speeds.

If your TCC fails to disengage or engages when it is not supposed to, it will set this code. You may notice the car chuggling at lower speeds or dying at stops.

This problem may be caused by a failing TCC solenoid in the transmission. The 4T65E transmission in Impalas is completely electronically controlled. However, it may also be caused by other transmission problems.

The 2011 Chevrolet Impala has 42.3 in. of front leg room.

make sure your fluid level is where it's supposed to be.