Chevy Impala

This is how i did it last year on my 97 Cutlass Supreme:

First you need a cursing jar, a six pack & a short piece of rubber hose that fits over the plugs. Start by properly gapping your new plugs. Remove the front top engine mounts(aka dog bones), put a bolt on one of the engine mount & attach a strap(ratchet) to it and anything in front of the car that won't move(I used the vise on my workbench). Put the parking brakes on, the car in neutral, then move the engine forward as far as it will go without damaging anything. I then remove the coolant overflow "resivore" & moved the alternator out of the way.

Bingo, 5 minutes per plugs(used the rubber hose to start the plugs by hand, it prevents crossthreading). 2 hrs later(including the front plugs) I put away the cursing jar & started the car...

Here are 4 basic suggestions, some more detailed or difficult than others. 1. Use Permatex "Heavey Duty Headliner & Carpet Adhesive." I found it in a 16.75 oz spray can at an auto parts store for about 8 dollars. You can also buy it on Amazon, for about 11 dollars. (Higher price on Amazon surprised me.) 2. Or: This method might sound silly, but it works if the fabric is sagging in the middle and not on the edges. In my car, I basically just tacked it up with some finesse. Buy some 'decorative nails' at a fabric store - they are about 1/2 inch long (actually 7/16"), with a wide,round head (about 1/3 inch head) - the head is not completely flat, sort of shaped like a plate. Then buy a "Permatex Fabric Repair Kit" - I think I bought this at an Auto parts store, but I can't remember. The fabric repair kit allows you to color mix tiny fabric particles to achieve any color you desire. If you work at it long enough, you can definitely match your interior (these are also great for repairing cigarette burns). Take the 'air dry adhesive' that comes with the kit, and spread it all over the head of the decorative nails. Then spread the color-matched fabric particles on the glue on the nail head. What you end up with is a little tack with a head that matches your headliner. Make a bunch of these, and then start tacking them into the headliner, sticking them right into the foam. You can get away with just using a few (probably 6-10) stuch at critical pressure points (use finger to find these points). When completed, there is no sag, and the fabric color-matched nail heads almost (and I repeat almost) look like they were meant to be there. They certainly don't stand out if the fabric particles were properly color matched. It might look stupid if you just start sticking them up there randomly - instead, make it symmetrical, and take your time finding the right points to stick them. Several months after doing this, none of the nails have come out, and the heads of the nails still have the fabric on them. Basically, this method is dirt cheap, and looks a lot better than it sounds like it would, so I thought I would share it. This costs less than $15, took about 1 hour, and actually looks good. 3. Or: For a complete headliner fabric do-over, go and buy the new headliner material either from an upolstery shop, or some fabric stores carry it. Be sure to take in some of your old headliner material to get as close a match as you can. This material is relatively inexpensive, the adhesive is not. I use the Permatex spray adheasive mentioned above or 3M's Spray Adhesive #08090. Buy three cans. Once you have these things go on and take your headliner shell out of the car. You've got to take out trim,sunvisors and dome lights to get at it. You will probably think the shell was the first thing on the assembly line and the car was built around it but it will come out. Once out of the car, lay it down and remove all the old cloth and foam. The old foam always seems to be a pain to get off the shell but keep at it, it's got to go. A stiff brush and a shop vac pay for themselves now. Do not tear up your shell. I don't know what it's made of but it's not too awfully strong. If I find a tear, say where the sunvisors fit through, I use duct tape (on the backside of the shell) to hold it together. After your shell is prepped up roll your new material over it to double check that you have plenty, with some extra, all the way around. Now, it's a good idea, I think, that while you're gluing wear old clothes, a long sleeved shirt and a comfort (dust) mask. The adhesive sprays out stringy like and it would no doubt be a good thing to not to breathe in any of it. It smells bad too. Roll up your new material foam side out. Starting at the front edge, spray across the shell and the foam a band of adhesive about six inches wide. Roll out the material (that with adhesive on only) and press/smooth it on the shell. Spray another six inch band on the shell and foam unroll and press/smooth. Keep on until you're done. While you are pressing and smoothing use only enough pressure to do it. Don't mash the cloth into the adhesive. Let the adhesive dry at least over night before installation. All you do now is trim off the excess and put it back up. It does take some time to do it, but it's not difficult. The odor of the adhesive will go away in a month or so. 4. Or: I've done this twice, with stellar results both times, and for only about $30 for everything. What you need to do is go into a decent fabric store (like a Jo-Ann or Northwest, or Hancock or something) and ask for headliner material. It's fabric bonded to foam in a roll, available in most interior colors (black, grey, tan, blue, red...folks w/ green are kinda on their own). Get enough to cover the roof of your car. Second, glue, and this is important, HAS to be 3M brand Foam Adhesive. This stuff is amazing. Comes out of the can very thick. Nothing else works as good as the 3M stuff, which is why a can costs $15. We tried a different brand and it fell down in a week. Both 3M jobs are still as good as when I did 'em, and the redo in the Crown Victoria is going on two, almost three years. Next, remove all the interior pieces that hold the headliner in place. There should be a cardboard or fiberglass backing to it. Wrestle that out of the car (4-doors are a real pain here...slight bending may be required...) and strip off the old fabric, foam, and adhesive. This gets messy. Real messy. I recommend doing this outside, rubbing with a rag towel. Once you've got it as clean and flat as possible, match the material to the headliner, then fold it over in the middle, spray both cardboard and foam, adhere the first half of the headliner, then repeat w/ the other side. Now, take a scissors or X-Acto knife and trim the headliner to fit the backing, leaving holes for visors, dome light, etc. Get it back into the car, reinstall the plastic, and you're set. Takes a few hours, depending on how much plastic you've got to remove in the car. That's all I know.

It should be right up front on the engine in back of the radiator down low towards the drivers side.

To my knowledge brown antifreeze is a sign of a blown head gasket. If its been in there a while (years with alot of mileage) this is the sand that has broken away left over from casting the engine block. if its this bad YOU REALLY NEED TO FLUSH THE SYSTEM! Its mud and rust litterally.

It is usually found in , or by the iar filter.

You fill the reservior to 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch from the top. The master cylinder is on the driver's side mounted to the brake booster.

Tim Allen is the current spokesperson for Chevy. After a year of looking, Chevrolet chose Mr. Allen around September 2010

Yes they do at the intake manifold gaskets.

It seems you have no other choice than the stealership. See Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-86 of your "Owner's Manual". Something to do with the car VIN number.....

They use Dex-cool from the factory.

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PO128 refers to the thermostat not operating properly. You could replace the thermostat with a good quality one such as Stant. The computer will have to be cleared. If the code does come back then you need to have a repair shop check it out for you.

Code PO128 is engine temperature below specs. You can try changing the thermostat and have the code cleared. If that does not work then you need to pay a shop to further diagnosis it. jd

broken hose to the power steering reservoir or the rack on the firewall is leaking badly or the reservoir has a hole in it.

Hi there; I have a 200 impala and the same thing ocirred. I replace the hearlight switch approx. 140.00 $ and fixed the problem. Hope thi s helps.

With engine off. Turn key to on. Press accelerator fully three times. This should reset light.

See {Passenger Compartment Air Filter} on page 3-23 of your "Owner's Manual", under Section 3: Instrument Panel - Climate Controls.

inside the airbox

Yes you have all kinds of room in that car to work with. You just need to KNOW what you are doing.

1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2

Very Carefully

check in side your steering wheel right where you would push the horn it should pull off n the wire inside might b disconnected or a short in it!

In all probability it is the cooling fan switch. Before you replace it you need to check the fuses. The cooling fan switch is on the intake manifold.

The "Check Engine" light, or "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" in modern cars is activated when a fault is detected in the fuel delivery, combustion, or exhaust emission system of your car. Sometimes, the cause of the fault will 'go away', and the light will go out on its own. There is very little that is 'owner-diagnosable' about an MIL light, without the correct scanning and diagnostic tools at a qualified mechanic shop. Every car is different, but usually things like low oil pressure or a busted headlamp will not set off the "check engine" light.

alright, i have just done this to my impala. pull your back seats down, there should be some screws right behind them...around 4. then you will need to pull of the little grey panel the screws came off of. afterwards, you will need to unsrew the screws underneath the speakers in the trunk, just leave your back seats down and crawl through right there. once you have done that, just pop off the back panel, and then you will need to unscrew the speakers, then pull them off, (just pull them because they have a glue that holds them in, they will not brake!), then you will need to cut off the stock adapter on the end of the wire that was attached to your speakers, then you will just attach the red and black wires to your speakers and install them. reverse the process to put your panel back on...note that you will not be able to use the grill that came with your speacker because the stock speaker grill (or cover) has little interlocking pieces that latch onto the rear dash panel.

There is no on or off switch because the vehicle has more than one row of seats. It may have a sensor that shuts off the passenger side front airbag if the occupant is to short or does not weigh enough.