Chevy Tracker

Firing order 1-3-4-2

You'll need to either pull the transmission or the engine to be able to get to the flywheel. Once the flywheel is exposed, it's just a few bolts and it falls off in your hands. BTW, when you put the flywheel back on, I would strongly recommend using Locktite or equivalent to keep the bolts from working loose. A flywheel should always be resurfaced before putting it back, unless it's a new flywheel, in which case you should make sure to remove all of the protective oil.

It's possible that you have a some type of nest in the dash area of the air flow dudct, possibly from mice. Or your fan is not operating correctly.

It has continual running lights, they don't shut off.

On our 1993 Geo Tracker, we have the stock 15 inch rims on it and we just put 235 70 r 15's on it and they work great, don't rub anywhere, and i think that's probably the biggest you'll be puttin on a tracker unless you raise it.

Every so often I have to clean out the throttle body of gunk from the recirculated gases that get fed into the intake. I'd start there. You may find while cleaning it that your idle air valve is gunked up too. That's the valve that allows a certain amount of air past the throttle body to keep the idle even. Obviously, the idle air valve could be the culprit too.

You will need to remove all of the Freon from your air conditioning system. Remove the air conditioning hoses. Remove the compressor belt. Remove the compressor retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new air conditioner compressor.

I am looking for the same thing post if you find answer please.

I am really sorry for anyone who this happened to and searches for a little light of hope. It is the rule that once the timing belt snaps, the engine is demolished for good. In most cases the cost of repair is way higher than the price of the entire vehicle, except for relatively new expesive cars, which, naturaly, have new timing belts, so it doesnt happen. So if the timing belt broke, no matter when and how, you will either need to replace the engine with a used one to keep the costs low, or give the car up as a totaled wreck. Sad but its the reality. It happened to me a couple years ago with a relatively new Audi A8 with huge mileage (about 200,000). The cost of the repair would be around $10,000+. And that car retailed at that time at 35,000 used.

Zhorns 98 Volvo S70 glt (turbo) I lost a timing belt after the tensioner fell apart, belt popped off. (148k on car, 15 k on timing belt, if ever asked if you want to replace the tensioner say YES) Was on startup when it happened (the belt popping off) We hauled the car home, I rolled up my sleeves and went to work. removed the head and brought it to a machine shop, checked the pistons, no sign of damage, in fact at 148k there was still the original crosshatching on the cylinder walls.. three sets of valves (that's 12 out of 20) had to be replaced, guides were fine, put in a new water pump, crank seal etc while I was in there, new cam seals got it all back together and it purred like a kitten, no more blue smoke at lights (answered the question as to whether it was valve seals or turbo) all together including $600 for the machine shop work, gaskets, water pump, timing belt,tensioner, new tensioner for the accessory belt, new accessory belt just under $1000. I ran the car until 2 weeks ago when my son (bless his heart) lost it on a snowy road, took out a telephone pole but walked out without a scratch (Now it is totaled) but it had 210k on it and was going strong. After the rebuild had 190 lbs compression straight across.

So.. head rebuild, not the end of the world, certainly not the end of a Volvo..

I had a similar situation with a timing belt break on a five year old V70 D5. Volvo want to charge me to assess it. They wont supply the parts to my garage. They want to supply the full head at great cost. I have no legal redress eventhough the part failed 20000 miles before it should have. Anyone who is considering a newish Volvo should beware and think twice

Hi, Try this place : Quality Auto Parts www.qaparts.com I've had great luck with them. Steve H.

1. take the tire and rim off.

2. take the pads off.

3. install new ones.

4. put the tire and rim bake on.

Depends, what are you looking for in a tracker? What are your health goals?

from 1989 to 1996 the size is 108

hi, My owner's manual says: Short Trip 60,000 miles Long Trip 60,000 miles So no matter what the driving cycle is, it's every 60,000 miles. I think I better check mine too. I just saw one on E-Bay for about $30.00 and that includes the belt and the gear. Hope this helps. Steve H.

It is prob a relay- I would get a chilton book or go to site- like justanswer.com. I was helped by locating a switch that had my a/c not working. It only cost me 14 bucks for the part that I would have never thought of checking or know what is was for. If I brought it to a reg A/c service it would have been ALOT more $$$. save yourself the headache and ck out that place.

Bad fan motor? Check to see if you are getting power to it Bad Switch? Bad fan relay?

A direct bolt in replacement, the 1966 would work. After that nothing would be a direct bolt in with out fabrication.

Voltage regulator in the Alternator. Never ever had this issue with my 2000 Suzuki Vitara (Same Vehicle) only the 2000 Tracker. Buy new, not rebuilt, as the fail out of the bx 50% of the time.

under the dash

Hi, The fuel pump is in the gas tank. You need to raise the car high enough to lower the fuel tank and lift the pump out, typically that means on a lift. It's not a fun task. I'd try a junk yard ( recycling center) and see if they have one, I just looked at the prices, not fun. While you have the tank down, check the two wires that go to the fuel gauge sender, they're pretty well exposed and I'd put some RTV on them to protect them from breaking. I had to change the fuel gauge because the two wires were broken right where I wasn't able to repair them. I found one at a junk yard for about $15.00. That's why that warning. Well good luck. Steve H.

start with the passenger side open bleeder screw, press pedal, close bleeder screw. repeat till all air is out of the system.

Should be under the hood between the battery and air filter compartment

well the valve seals are very difficult to do on the truck because of the fact I haven't seen a tool out there that can remove the valve spring with having the head still on this vehicle and working for suzuki i have had to take every head off but it may depend on what motor your working on 2.0 2.5 2.7

This type of 4X4 needs to be either in neutral or in park before you change over to 4x4 high or low. IT might be a little difficult at first. depending if you want it on 4 low, just slide up from the 4 high when car is in neutral. it is the 1st slide up from 2 low. But if you want in 4 high (usualy for snow, mud,etc.) then you will need to go up to 4 low then pull a little to the left then go up to either 2 or 4 high. The light should go on where the dash is and it should fell higher while your in the car.