answersLogoWhite

0

Chrysler Concorde

Chrysler Concorde was a four-door, front wheel drive vehicle manufactured from 1993-2004 by Chrysler. The vehicle was designed with short overhangs and low slung windshield. Its wheels were effectively placed to the side of the vehicle to create a bigger passenger cabin than its competitors.

815 Questions

Engine oil for 2000 Chrysler concord 3.2L?

Use a good brand of 10W-30 and it takes approximately 5 quarts.

What are the procedures on replacement of a low beam headlight bulb for a 1999 Chrysler Concorde LXi drivers side?

I stopped by a Chrysler dealer and they informed me it was a 2 hour job. The front bumper cover has to be removed and then the headlight assembly in order to change the bulb. A cost of approximately $120.00 in labor to change a $12.00 bulb.

How do you change a headlight bulb in a 99 Chrysler Concorde?

1999 Chrysler Concorde headlight bulb replacement: Purchase the correct replacement headlight bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the headlight bulb replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).

How do you replace the battery in a 2004 Chrysler Concorde?

The procedure for removal and replacement is basically the same for all autos, not just your Concord, so this procedure is generic in nature. The battery has two TERMINAL POSTS, one of which is electrically positive ["hot"], and is usually identified on the battery top with a "+" symbol, and/or the abbreviaton "POS." The other terminal is electrically negative ["ground"] and is identified on the battery top with a "-" symbol, and/or the abbreviation "NEG." To help prevent placing the wrong cable on the terminal of opposite polarity, the posts, and cable clamps are different sizes [diameters], with the positive terminal being slightly larger than the negative. Usually, but not always, the battery cables are identified by the insulation on the positive cable being RED, and the negative cable insulation being BLACK. If, in placing a clamp to a post, you notice that the clamp either is too small to fit the terminal, or too large and loose to fit, THEN you are trying to put the cable/clamp on the WRONG terminal post! Pay very close attention to prevent a REVERSE polarity connection, as this can DESTROY many EXPENSIVE ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS in your vehicle. Both the negative and positive cables are terminated, on their battery ends, with a "split" clamp which encricles the round terminal posts. The clamps are secured to the terminal with a cross bolt which tightens the clamp to the post. A wrench is needed to tighten or loosen the bolt. FOR SAFETY, anytime you are working on or near electrically energized wires or components, ALWAYS DISCONNECT the negative cable from the negative terminal BEFORE doing anything else. It is IMPORTANT that the NEGATIVE [GROUND] cable is removed FIRST because IF the metal wrench should contact between the negative terminal and a grounded metal body component, NOTHING WILL HAPPEN. On the other hand, IF a metal wrench contacts both the positive terminal and grounded metal, WHILE THE NEGATIVE GROUND cable is still connected, a monsterous SHORT CIRCUIT will result, throwing arc sparks everywhere, possibly causing the wrench to overheat, burning your hand, and in the worst case, COULD cause the battery to EXPLODE, spraying shrapnel and SULPHURIC ACID EVERYWHERE !!!!! ALWAYS COMPLETELY DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE CABLE FIRST ! Once the negative and positive battery cables have been removed, the battery retaining mechanism [there are several different types] must be removed. Some are a bracket which clamps over the top of the battery, while most newer vehicles have a triangular "bar" which mates with a slot in the bottom edge of the battery case. This secures the battery in the tray, and prevents the battery from "bouncing" out. Once the two cables and the retainer have been removed, the battery can be lifted out of the vehicle. Batteries are very heavy relative to their physical size, so be sure to have good footing, good balance, and use safe lifting procedures to prevent physical injury. Installation of the new/replacement battery is simply a matter of reversing the above procedure. Good luck.

Where is the thermostat on a 2003 Chrysler Concorde?

It is under the housing at the engine end of the lower radiator hose.

2002 Chrysler concord limited driver side interior water leak and also leak in trunk when parked in rain?

Rubber gasket around door shrinks and allows rain to enter. I have a silver car so that the duck tape blends right in.

Where is the water pump located on a 1993 Chrysler Concorde?

On my 97 Concorde with the 3.5L engine the water pump is behind the timing belt cover. You must first take the timing belt cover off to see the water pump.

The 3.3L water pump is driven by the serpentine belt.

Where is the carburetor on a 1996 Chrysler Concorde?

A 1996 Concorde is fuel injected, it doesn't have a carburetor.

Where is the water pump located on 1996 Chrysler Concorde 3.5 v6?

The water pump in this vehicle is driven by the timing belt and is in the middle of the front of the block behind the timing belt cover.

Where is the water pump on a 3.5 L Chrysler concord?

Inside the front of the engine, driven by the timing belt.

What is wrong if your 94 Chrysler Concorde transmission will work only in reverse or low?

your input clutch assembly is probably burnt up you will have to smell the fluid or have some transmission technician check the clutch volume indexes with a drb (diagnostic tool)

AnswerActually it's probably your spped sensor that is located on the trans. Chrysler has always had a problem with them. My car just did the same thing, part is about $ 30. AnswerI friend of mine had the transmission replaced on his '94 Concorde about two yers ago. It was horribly expensive: more than two thousand dollars!

Your car is probably stuck in " Limp Home Mode ", which is when the cars computer senses something bad is going to happen to the trans so it will only allow the car to run in reverse or 2nd gear.

Crans

The climate control on your 1994 Chrysler Concorde blows hot air and won't shut off It starts sporadically even when heater controls indicate it is off Does anyone have a solution?

Possible answerYou might try disconnecting the battery completely. Leave it for about 20 minutes then reconnect it. This should reset the climate control. We did it with ours after a mechanic suggested it. Hope this helps.

I have a 93 Concorde with the same prob. I am currently looking to purchase a new(used on eBay?) climate control module, which should correct the prob.

Tool to push the piston into the brake caliper bore?

The special tool to push the piston into the brake caliper. A C-CLAMP. FIND OUT WHAT SIZE YOU NEED. FROM VIN NUMBER IN YOUR LEFT SIDE OF YOUR FRONT WINDSHIELD,THEN TAKE NUMBER TO AUTO STORE.SO THEY CAN GET YOURSELF A REPAIR MANUAL FOR YOUR CAR.IN MANUAL THEY WILL TELL YOU THE SIZE OF CALIPER,BY DIAMETER THEN YOU CAN BUY THE CORRECT C-CLAMP. AT HOME DEPOT, FOR A FEW BUCKS INSTEAD OF MAJOR BUCKS,FOR SPECIAL TOOL.

S O N N Y

How do you change a brake booster on a 2003 Chrysler concord?

First you start by removing the wiper arms from the rotation shafts. Next remove the black plastic wiper drive system covers. These are screwed down with torx sheet metal screws. Then remove the strut tower brace which is held down with 14mm hex cap screws. Carefully remove the wiper washer hose which is clipped to the under side of the strut tower brace prior to completely removing the brace. There are two 13 mm nuts which hold the brake master cylinder to the booster that must be removed and you will need a 10" long 3/8 extension with either a wobble end or a universal. Use care not to drop the nuts as access is tight. Remove the two wire electrical connector from the master cylinder. There are several harnesses and vacuum hoses attached to a bracket that is held to the master cylinder under the two 13mm nuts. Take the vacuum supply hose off the master and then carefully place the bracket with the harness and attached vacuum hoses and push towards the engine to create room to remove the master and booster. The master comes off next. You may need to use some PB blast and tap on it or pry on it as they normally are corroded onto the booster. Once free, place the master as far forward as you can with out kinking or damaging the two brake lines. The next phase is under the dash and if you weigh more than 185 pounds it might be easier to remove the front seat. You are going to need a good light to work under the dash. Once you are situated and using a flat tip screw driver you must remove the brake push rod retainer clip. Take care not to damage it and if in doubt you should replace it. Pull the brake booster push rod away from the brake pedal. After this step remove 4 10mm hex nuts from the booster. A 1/4" air ratchet is best for this to speed things up. Once the nuts are off go back under hood and remove the booster. This is easier said than done as it is a very tight fit. Prior to installation of the new or re-manufactured booster make sure the master cylinder push rod length is equal to the one you removed. To install reverse the procedure and be sure to insure all fasteners are adequately tightened. Total time to do this job depends on experience and skill but should range between two to three hours. Good luck.

Trunk leak in 1999 Chrysler concord tire well how to fix?

I removed the tail light assembly and installed rubber washers (purchased from the local hardware store, 6 required) between the car frame and the tale light assembly threaded studs on each tail light assembly. Also used some "Mortiet" around the guide studs before tightening the twist fasteners on the inside of the trunk. In addition I cut away the trunk liner in the tire well and sealed around the "breather plugs"? located on the tire well bottom and side with a brushable water proof sealer. Hope the hell it works.