Clutches and Flywheels

Daily Iveco Clutch Kit 50c15 2994020 and you can get more part numbers from http://www.ivecospares.com.au/index.php

First disconnect the lower master cylinder to slave cylinder hydrolic line and plug the opening. Next loosen the mounting bolts on the slave cylinder and pull the cylinder away. To install: Grease where the slave cylinder rod meets the release fork. Mount the cylinder in position install the bolts and torque to proper specs. Reconnect the hydrolic line and bleed the system. To bleed: Slip a clear tube over the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. Submerse the other end of the tube in a container filled with brake/hydrolic clutch fluid. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal a few times then hold it down. While the assiatant holds the clutch pedal down loosen the bleeder valve until no air bubbles come out of the line then tighten the valve back down. Repeat until there is no more air seen in the tube. NOTE: Keep an eye on the level of fluid in the master cyclinder. You may have to add fluid throughout the bleeding process. If the level drops below half more air may enter the system, and you'll have to bleed it all over again. When you're finished bleeding the system top off the master cylinder and test the clutch for proper operation. Then go enjoy your now fully releasing clutch.

Bleeder valve: Valve, usually operated by a wrench, to release the air from a hydraulic system EG: Hydraulic brakes or Diesel engine injection systems or Early gasoline fuel injection systems or Cooling systems or many other applications that you need to remove air from fluid systems.

clutch fan is removed with 2 special tools. these are available at auto stores.they are not cheap. also remember the clutch fan screws onto water pump, and has left hand thread,so you will need to turn it clockwise to remove

Possibly, but it is better to do most things slowly and smoothly when driving.

Well according to [http://info.rockauto.com/Raybestos/Detail.html?SC360128-4.jpg this picture] it should be near where the Fluid Suppy line attaches. http://info.rockauto.com/Raybestos/Detail.html?SC360128-4.jpg Hope This Helps.

First, check the fluid level for the clutch reservoir.

If it is low check the slave cylinder mounted on the right hand side of the transmission.

If it is leaking fluid you need to replace the slave cylinder.

If it is not leaking and fluid level is okay, your clutch master cylinder is bad.

Unless the clutch was slipping in any gear you normally can rule out the clutch.

Do not rule out a bad throw out bearing which moves the fork arm inside the transmission (normally you would have heard noise from it while in neutral or in gear prior too the problem.

It's likely to be the slave cylinder as Mazda b series are notorious for this going out, worst case scenario is that your clutch master is spoilt.

Auto zone sells these parts and so does advance auto parts.

If you do have to buy the clutch master, it is sold as exactly what you will have to remove it. It has the hard lines, and there are two nut screws you remove from inside the track at the firewall.

You will have to bleed the system when replacing either part.

Normally clutch failure or throw out bearing issues are apparent before you have no pedal.

To diagnose, start simple.

It's usually the slave cylinder or clutch master unless other issues were present before.

You don't need to engage the compressor clutch to recharge the system. In fact, you shouldn't engage it without refrigerant and oil in it, because the refrigerant carries the compressor oil in order to lubricate the compressor. But, to answer your question, you disconnect the low pressure switch, and run a jumper wire between the two female ends of the connector.

Yes and no. It has a fly wheel if it is equipped with a manual transmission. It has a flex plate for an automatic transmission. But, that's like the term "motor" being used to describe an internal combustion "engine". In my world, a "motor" is connected to an electrical power source. Anyhow, the flex plate (flywheel) is a connection between the engine and the transmission. Every vehicle has one.

Take it to a mechanic that's experienced in the rear end that you are needing the repair.

Hi,

I am currently undergoing that process right now on my 04 tibby. It's a helluva process. You can go to the Hyundai service web site and it'll show you how to change it. Step by excruciating step. It doesn't seem so hard but there are a lot of hard to reach places.

For the clutch you will have to click on the SHOP tab. Select your make and year and engine size and it'll pull up everything you need to know about your Hyundai, all schematics and everything.

www.hmaservice.com

Thanks

Sami

04 Tiburon 2.7 GT V6

The purpose of the flywheel is to moderate and smooth out the energy that is delivered from the motor to the machine. It does this by storing excess kinetic energy for intermittent use. The effect is to smooth out the energy delivery so the ride (if the machine is a car) is smooth instead of jerky.

It will take not very long once it has arrived in the post.

Dj Coco (BJC) Wrote this.

8 lbs

In order to bleed the clutch you must have two people with you. One person to let the valve loose and one to pump the clutch to full erection. Look in your owners manual to find the bleeding valve. Check the fluid level every 4 bleeds make sure air doesnt get back into the system. Have someone pump up the petal until stiff and tell them to hold it to the floor. then while they have it to the floor you will then release the valve to let air out. Close valve and repeat process over until all air has exited the system. In order to bleed the clutch you must have two people with you. One person to let the valve loose and one to pump the clutch to full erection. Look in your owners manual to find the bleeding valve. Check the fluid level every 4 bleeds make sure air doesnt get back into the system. Have someone pump up the petal until stiff and tell them to hold it to the floor. then while they have it to the floor you will then release the valve to let air out. Close valve and repeat process over until all air has exited the system.

You have to pull the engine and tranny out, separate the two, and do the clutch work. With a cherry picker or another way to lift the eng/tran it's really not that bad of a job. All of the electrical connectors will only mate up with the right counterpart, and all of the mechanical dissconnects are pretty easy. You will need ramps or GOOD solid jack stands to get to the motor mount electrical and other things you need to remove underneath before lifting the eng/tran out.

A spring is used to hold together the clutch and the flywheel.

depends where you get it and what's been done to it. Can be anywhere from 20k-30k.

Hydraulic clutches use a slave cylinder mounted at / on the transmission to operate the clutch lever. It has a bleeder valve much like a brake wheel cylinder or brake caliper. It typically shares the fluid in the brake fluid reservoir. Use penetrant to minimize the risk of shearing the bleeder valve. Once the valve is working, use the same sequnce to bleed as for brakes. Depress the clutch, open the valve, close the valve, release the clutch, repeat till clear fluid (no old fluid which is YELLOw) and no air, flows. REFILL THE RESERVOIR as needed.

hire a mechanic! Or if your mechanically inclined here's a brief overview. be forewarned this took me 20 hours with a helper who performed three clutch replacements.Your primary goal is to remove the transmission because the clutch is located between the transmission and the engine block.

Remove the air filter housing, radiator hoses, clutch slave cylinder, vehicle speed sensor, starter, and axle. disconnect any electrical connections on the transmission and also the shifter cable linkage. disconnect the exhaust pipe at the gasket near the bottom of the radiator, and also a bracket near the sub frame. the exhaust blocks access to two of the three engine mounts that you need to remove. first support the engine from above then remove the following engine mounts: first location is under the air filter housing, second is near the bottom of the radiator near the center engine support, third is at the intersection of the exhaust, center engine support, and sub frame. the sub frame must be lowered slightly to remove the engine mount. all the bolts for sub frame are huge and high torque so an impact wrench is highly recommended.

At this time the engine should be fairly loose and you should have access to the transmission. there are three bolts that thread into the transmission bell housing side and four that thread in from the rear of the engine block. remove all. a jack should be used to support the weight of the transmission as you drop it and slide it out from the drivers side of vehicle.

Behold - the clutch! (which will be on the engine ) replace the worn clutch and reassemble everything in reverse. Be sure to replace all your fluids and to bleed the clutch line to the slave cylinder. HAVE FUN!!!

As long as you don't ' ride the clutch' it is not uncommon to go 100,000 + miles. Trucks will be less if they are worked hard.

If you know what you're doing they last a long, long time. My friend has a truck with about 110k on it and it still has the original clutch.

* it is easy to repiar

* maintanence is easy

* easy transmit the power

www.hasport.com has clutch master cylinder adapters. Here is the info from their page: "The new master cylinder adapter allows the use of a Honda-style or Wilwood clutch master cylinder to convert a cable transmission vehicle to a hydraulic setup."

It presses the spring loaded levers that release the presure on the clutch plate.