Clutches and Flywheels

the nickname originally originated from Jerry West. But today, there are many clutch players. Ex. Gilbert Arenas, Kobe, Tracy mcgardy, Billups, etc.

suck is off

its in side the transmission case , can not be changed without removing the transmission and splitting the case

im posting this because when i looked for help nobody was able to help, so here it goes. to begin with im not sure if this is for an ignition switch, or the tumbler ignition piece, but i had to replace the ignition part as some a-hole had stolen my car and had used a screwdriver most likely to bust the ignition so you can now start it with anything.

on to the fix! i took it to a mechanic, he said it would be 330 to fix. 195 for the part, and labor was the rest. i said screw that, and went to a Honda aftermarket parts dealer in portland, or (autoadventure), and bought one for $165. the guys there are awesome by the way. so from there i was going to take it back to the mechanic for straight labor, but the guys said i could do it. so i did.

its easy, all you need is a screwdriver, a hammer, and a flat head screw driver. you need the screw driver to take off the plastic covering surrounding the ignition, its the piece between the steering wheel and the dash. theres some recessed screws you want to be sure to get or you will break the thing. i think there is a total of 6 or so you need to get. then there are plastic tabs you need to gently undo to get it apart (like those small plastic Easter eggs kinda). from there you can see the ignition assembly in plain sight. from there you notice that there are only 2 screws holding the thing to the steering column.

i was confused at first because it looks like there are 2 rivets holding it in place, but in fact they are screws whose heads have been shaved off in factory. all you need to do is take your hammer and flat head screwdriver, and wedge the screwdriver head in between the lip of the piece and the screw, and bang it towards the counterclockwise direction. this takes some time, and if at first you are scared, don't be. you don't care about that part anyways. you should have already gotten the replacement ignition (tumbler, key hole, and electronics in one solid piece) so you don't need that anyways. after you bang on it for a while, they should give a little bit, so you can basically unscrew them with your fingers. from there it is a quick switch. unplug the electronics from the unit, and plug in the new one, bolt it on and replace the covering and you are golden, and are $200 ahead of the neck punk mechanic who tries to rip you off. hope this helps!

You may not even need to get the complete tumbler and key hole part. Your only problem may be just the ignition wire that connects to the back of the tumbler and is relatively easy to replace. This part may go for about 80$ . I would recommend that you try to replace this part first because it may save you from the trouble of replacing the whole ignition unit which costs about $250(this is if your car starts but does not stay turned on or if your car's power turns off when you are driving). I went through the trouble of taking the whole ignition unit off but just found that it was the ignition wire on my 90 Honda Accord. And if your actual key insertion cylinder is damaged, where you put your key in and turn the car on, then I found that most auto-parts stores Like Kragans or AutoZone have replacement key cylinders with a new set of keys for about $30. Don't replace the tumbler body if you don't have to because again, they are about $250. The Key cylinder should slip out of the body by pushing a little button down that is on the side while the key is turned at the I position. That's all I got for now

I'm having the same problem with a 1987 ford E350 with a 460 auto trans. I just replaced the engine with a used one from a 1988 ford F250 with a 460 4wd auto trans. and now the starter won't release from the flywheel and it is making a bad grinding sound. I searched around on the net a little bit and it looks like all the 460 from 84-91 list the same part numbers for the starter, and flywheel. my old starter had some movement in the shaft and sounded like it was grinding a little so, I replaced the it with a new one from Auto Zone. And it still dose the same thing. There is no adjustments to be made with a ford starter like a GM starer. It should just bolt right up and that's it. So now I'm not sure what to do. I don't work on fords that much so if you have any ideas please let me know.

Start the car, place you foot on the brake and push and hold it. If the brake pedal very slowly sinks toward the floor, the master cylinder is bad. Of course a leak at the master cylinder means it is bad. Don't ignore any of these 2 symptoms as it can stop working at any moment, and leave you with no brakes. When looking at the master cylinder look at the wall or booster that the master is bolted to. If u see sweating, or paint pielling at the mating the master is leaking from the seals.

Here are some experiences and solutions:

I have a Mercedes-Benz S500 and it was stuck in park and a MB tech told me to pump the break while hammering the shifter with a mallet and yanking the shifter down (all at the same time). I had my Dad continuously press the break while I hammered and yanked that blasted shifter down to Drive. As odd as that sounds, it works. But this is just temporary.

Check your fuses, i have had this happen to me, also, turn ignition key to on, but do not start. then with foot on brake pedal move transmission to neutral. then start engine.this will usually allow you to then use your gears and drive this will also usually fix the problem of being stuck in park.

Make sure you press the brake down, and fairly hard. You must usually step on the brake in order to shift out of park. I just picked up an automatic after my stick vehicle and am still getting used to this.

I had the same problem. But it was either trying to put my car into gear or into park. The solution: I had to get a new gear cable.

I had a similar problem. I couldn't take my car out of park. The problem was a brake switch that is connected to the brake pedal. You normally step on the brake to place the car in gear. If the switch goes out and you step on the brake the trans will not engage. Don't know if this is same situation with your car.

You may not have any problem at all. Your wife might have put the car in park and let the car roll before engaging the hand brake. If your car rolled while in park and the weight of the car leaned on the parking brake you may need to push the car a little bit before it can get out of park. depending on the car the push may need to be a little or a lot. Next time follow this as a parking routine: reverse or drive into parking spot, stop, with foot still on the brake pedal put car in park and engage hand brake fully so that car doesn't roll. Remove foot from brake pedal. This should stop that problem.

On my 1994 Toyota Corolla, when I had this problem and couldn't get the gear shift to budge, the tow truck driver showed me an override switch, which was located above the gear shift under a plastic tab. ( You need something like a key or screwdriver to depress it, but it gets you out of park and I was able to drive to the garage to get the "brake light service switch" fixed. It's a temporary fix, but it works!

this all depends on what make of car and year as well it could be a fuse, to the relay that sits under the break petal always by the manual for the car you own at like discount autos they have many easy useful charts inside with a simple useful trouble shooting guide i have one for two of my for cars i am still searching for my buick rivi. book cant find the one i want but you must go by the working manual first to get an understanding of what your doing with a car

Shortly after submitting a similar question to this one, I went out to my car and started messing around with the fuses and tran cable. It ended up being the tran cable shorting out from the cold. I detached the cable and reattached it and my car went into gear. So in my case it was the tran cable that was the problem.

I too had the dillema of the clk430 shifter stuck in park. And as odd as it sounds hitting the top of the shifter knob while appling the brake pedal does actually work. I'm sure there is an underlying problem to this but in a tough situation it did work.

With the flywheel spinning at about 1,000 RPM at idle, the starter, if engaged with the flywheel, would be forced to spin between 15,000 and 20,000 RPM. Once the engine has turned over and is running, the overrun clutch will release the starter from the flywheel and prevent the gears from re-meshing (as in an accidental turning of the ignition key) while the engine is running

A garbage truck. (Get it? Because flies love the garbage.)

read up on it...should be a simple job...

...everyone should have a manual for their vehicle(parts store or dealer), and a local library should have professional shop manuals available in the REFERENCE section for free...make copies of the appropriate sections...read up and good luck :)

What a moronic answer: 'read a book'. Won't be coming here again for help.

There should be a bleeder located on/near the slave. Fill the master with brake fluid which is what the hydraulic clutch uses. Raise vehicle place on stands. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal and after 4 pumps, hold to floor. At this time you loosen the bleeder screw to release air/fluid mix. Tighen screw and now the assistant can pump up system again and repeat the procedure 4-5 times; that should do it. Always keep the fluid in master full as it will go down fast. Good luck.

the presidential scroll is actually holding olive branches in the real presidential seal. The eagle clutching the scroll symbolizes a "secret book", that only contains presidential information unseen by anyone other than past presidents. Most think of this to be fictional, but information such as Apollo missions, the 18 minutes of Watergate scandal, and Area 51 information, are thought of to exist.

Assuming it has the sixteen speed Eaton box it will have a twin plate clutch. Measure the gap from the between the release bearing and the front of the gearbox, it should be 13mm, i use a 1/2" ext. To adjust it you need to turn the engine until you can see a removable locking plate held in with a 9/16" headed bolt. remove this plate and with the clutch pushed down you can turn the inner ring, there is a proper tool but you can do it with a small strong bar. Remeasure it with the pedal released, turn the ring clockwise to decrease the gap. When the locking tab is getting to point where is almost proud of the castellations on the inner ring it is time to change the clutch.

If it has the zf gearbox there is no adjustment.

remove the cowling covers around the steering wheel ,,,,,,,,,,,,, its under the top cover :) easy when you know where to look :)

its under the flap at the front next to the washer fluid top up

Under the hood in the aux relay box number 1, it will be marked C1008 and its the larger of the two relays on the left side of the box........

yes

In order to replace the master cylinder with ABS attached to the master cylinder on a 1995 Grand Am you will need to complete the following steps:

• Disconnect the negative battery cable.
• Locate the master cylinder which is attached to the drivers side of the firewall.
• Remove the ABS brake line from the master cylinder using a wrench.
• Disconnect the fluid hose from the master cylinder using a wrench.
• Unscrew the nuts that hold the master cylinder in place.
• Remove the master cylinder and install a new one.
• Reattach the fluid hose to the master cylinder.
• Reattach the ABS brake line to the master cylinder.
• Tighten all the nuts and bolts and reconnect the negative battery cable.

Once all of these steps have been completed you can be sure that your master cylinder has been properly replaced and is ready for use.

the pressure switch which is located on the dryer/accumulator senses when the refigerant level or pressure is low and shuts off the compressor to prevent catastrophic failure of the compressor due to possible lubricant loss. the electronic control panel in the dash then flashes to let you know your refrigerant is low. you obviously need to recharge the system at least. and to do that you have to get the compressor running. there may be other ways but the way i do it is to make a little jumper out of a paper clip that will plug into both holes of the pressure switch plug that i mentioned earlier. this will lock on the compressor once you reset the electronic control panel in the dash and the only way I've found to do this is to simply disconnect the negative battery terminal. this will get rid of the flashing ac symbol but it will also delete your radio preset stations. you can now proceed to recharge the system and check for leaks etc. if you do this yourself be sure to remove the jumper in the pressure switch plug and reconnect it to the pressure switch when you get thru charging the system

The contacts in the ignition key switch have been known to not make contact when the ignition is turned on. Remove the switch contacts. It can be removed from the key lock. Spray some contact cleaner into the contact cluster through some small openings, reassemble the switch and work the key back and forth to clean the contacts. Then see if the AC clutch gets voltage. Note that there is a little light in the AC pushbutton on the AC controls. The light some come on if the circuit to the clutch is complete

Check to see if the A/C fuse is bad first. K.I.S.S.

All the newer cars have self adjusting clutches that are hydraulic, they work on the same principle as disc brakes, as they wear the pads keep getting closer to the rotor or as in your case the clutch disk.

There are 2 ways, you can start a motorcycle. The best is to have the gear in neutral either after your last ride or before you press the starter button. Then all you have to do is turn the key, make sure the fuel tap is on and press the starter button to start the engine.

Or if your motorcycle is in first gear already, squeeze the clutch handle in, to disengage the clutch and press the starter button. Only start to release the clutch, as you start to ride.

Usually if there is no indication of clutch wear, such as slippage, yet with the clutch completetly depressed it's hard to engage gears and the clutch engages very quckly

the clutch sliping is normally due to worn friction material and if the car judders when the thumping takes place like its about to stall this is most likely the problem caused by coasting alot or just age and normal wear might need a new clutch answer if clutch is slipping, have it adjusted, but with thumping noise and slipping , u need a new clutch get it doe before you need to be towed