Clutches and Flywheels

You've lost all pressure on the clutch cylinder.

I can't tell you if it is the master cylinder, or the slave cylinder, or just that you have a slow leak and ran too low on fluid without being there to see it.

Check the fluid level, if it's low or out refill it, then pump the clutch by hand in and out and check to see if the fluid is running out anywhere, the hose between the two cylinders may also be damaged, but you'll have to find that leak to be sure.

If no leaks are found then it is probably a slow leak, you can bleed the system and get by for a little while but replacing the leaking part will need to happen soon, it is most likely the slave cylinder though, they go bad much more often than the master cylinders.

Loosen the jamb nuts on the clutch cable adjuster (located under the rubber boot on the clutch cable under the gas tank behind the front forks). Lengthen the clutch cable to its shortest length. Remove the derby cover on the primary. Loosen the large nut you see on the clutch pack (11/16 ???). Once loose, take a screw driver and gently turn the inner screw clockwise until it bottoms out. DO NOT FORCE IT. Just turn until it touches. Then turn the screw out (counter clockwise) between 1/2 & 3/4 turn and retighten the large jamb nut. Reinstall the derby cover. Go back the clutch cable and adjust the cable out (longer) until there is about 1/8 to 3/16 inch space between the clutch lever housing and the cable end. pull and release the clutch lever harshly several times & recheck this clearance to be sure of proper adjustment. Relock the jamb nut at the cable boot location and slip the boot back over the adjuster.

solid disc type flywheel

rim type flywheel

You have to split the transmission, maybe even drop it out. There might be some helpful info on www.autozone.com

clutch change method Nissan Almera

The forces coming on the arms of flywheel are tangential to the flywheel rotation.During the design of arms precaution is taken that arms are made with minimum material with required strength &with elliptical c/s we made arms stronger by keeping major axis of ellipse in parallel & minor axis perpendicular with direction of force so that large material is available in the direction of applied force. There for c/s of flywheel is elliptical.

Most likely, the clutch or the clutch pilot bearing is dragging. This is caused by clutch hydraulic leaks not letting the clutch fully disengage or the clutch pressure plate/disc/flywheel is warped. Crawl under the car, (engine off)have a friend push/release pedal, see if slave cylinder throw seems adequate and look for leaks. If throw is short, problem is in the clutch hydraulics; if throw is normal, problem is the clutch.

No you can't: the clutch on the Peugeot 806 is operated by a self-adjusting cable, so there is no need/facility to manually adjust it. One important point to note if you are replacing the clutch cable - the cable's self-adjusting mechanism is situated towards the pedal end of the cable, at the point at which the cable passes through the bulkhead. It comes with a plastic shroud around the mechanism and this shroud must NOT be removed until the replacement cable is fitted at both ends, i.e., at the gearbox end and at the pedal end. Once the cable is so connected, the plastic shroud can be removed, the clutch pedal can be depressed, and the cable will then automatically adjust itself.

Also note that there are two cables available for this vehicle of differing length: 1760mm length cable to fit the ME gearbox, and 1578mm length cable to fit the ML gearbox. Either check your gearbox type or measure the old cable first to ensure you have the correct one.

Yes you can. You need to replace the clutch when you realize its starting to go out. You will mess up with gears. When a clutch fails, it is usually due to a worn clutch disk or worn springs in the pressure plate. If you continue to drive the car with a worn disk, the rivets on the disk will eventually start to rub against the pressure plate or flywheel. You will then have to resurface the flywheel and replace the pressure plate. Before replacing a clutch, make sure it is adjusted properly, since an out of adjustment clutch will slip and act like it is worn out.

yes

Call Chevy dealer ask for the phone number for the 'Service Manual'.

Mine ran me about $120. About five or six books, eight inches high when stacked.

Depends on what symptoms you're getting. Is it running with vibration? Or is it so badly scored that the clutch won't work? It's most unlikely that you'll need to replace a flywheel. They don't really go wrong.

Check the following...............

1. Freon levels.

2. Clutch to hub air gap.

3. Pressure switch.

4. A/C controller.

5. A/C clutch wire harness

usually they will leak out the back by the booster, your brake pedal will slowly go to the floor at stops or the brake pedal will go right to the floor when pushed.

Take a punch and push the pin through as far as you can, then twist it out with a pair of pliers

Yes.

There are various types. As far back as l903 there was a major division- do we have one main engine power all the drums, etc, through a multiplicity of clutches, or separate engines ( steam here) or Motors ( electric) for each crane task, which would save much time on the job, particularily in repair and damage-control work -as well as construction as a whole. Cranes also generally ( some have lever swinging) specialized (steering clutches) to swing the cab to left or right. These take the form of split pedals- the top part is usually split as to function as a swing brake. Naturally there are two such pedals. It is almost beyond argument that the aircraft use of Rudder Pedals was borrowed from Cranes. Getting up in the world, indeed. Most hammerhead cranes of the older type are electric and have separate controllers ( throttles if you will) for such functions as main hoist, auxililary hoise- trolley ( In and out) and in some cases, if so equipped the swing function . These are controlled with subway-style deadman-clutch motor controllers. Let go and the function stops. (hence the name) This is standard on Stothert and Pitt (UK) and Colby ( Seattle and Vancouver) hammerhead cranes. These two can be considered clutches of a safety type.

its easy u just rev the engine as high as it goes and pop the clutch

If it has been removed, you could try placing it flat on a known perfectly flat surface. If it is bent you will be able to rock it slightly. Otherwise, any machine shop could check it and tell you, likely for free.

The most likely case would be that air somehow got into the line. try bleeding the clutch fluid, while making sure that the level in the reservoir does not get low.

49 lbs

You will be unable to shift gears

You can't adjust the clutch. It's a hydraulic system. The best thing to do would be to hire a good mechanic to replace the system. My guess would be that your slave cylinder is bad. That's inside the tranny, behind the clutch plate.