Clutches and Flywheels

warrior 350 runs on wet clutch, the crankcase oil lubes the clutches

You need a Z7 Clutch puller.

what is the torque for the bolts on the clutch springs for a trx 90/>

I am sure you can - but the clutch is abpout the same price as a rebuilt compressor. So last time i did this I bought the compressor, removed the cluth, and put it on my car compressor. I still have a compressor if I need one. Be sure your compressor is not locked up before you go buy anything.

The raised centre faces the clutch cover mate. Flatter surface to the flywheel.

The plate is usually marked "front" though.

The clutch master cylinder is under the hood, drivers side, on the firewall. It is between the brake master cylinder and the drivers side fender. The cylinder is very small in comparison to the brake master cylinder. The reservoir is the small white plastic canister above it.

hydraulics work because fluids are considered a non-compressible material.

therefore when you put your foot down on the clutch pedal it pushes the hydraulic fluid pressure through the line to disengage the clutch.

if there is air in the line the air bubble will compress (gases ARE compressible) and you will feel a "spongy pedal" and you will have to "pump" the clutch pedal to move that air bubble down the hydraulic line before you get a "good" clutch

You pull the right side cover of the bike and you'll see the clutch then you undo the spring bolts and pull out the plates and replace whatever you need too

Sounds like you have a (auto trans???). The vehicle safety switch is allowing you to start the engine because it thinks you are in park or neutral. If this is the case, check the linkage at the trany end. Diconnect the linkage at the trany and try to shift gears by hand. If there is little to no resistance, drop the pan and check to see if the "detent" assembly has a broblem. This ( the detent) is what keeps spring loaded pressure on things and is the resistance you feel when you shift the trany by hand. Look up DETENT in the dictionary for a profesional desciption.

Well, you have two choices; First, pull the engine, which involves a few tools and time, Or pull the transmission.

the master cylinder is on top of the clutch pedal, you will need to remove cover above pedals, and you will see the reservoir cap, its not easy to get to or to take off.

The parts are only about $2500. With labor the total will be about $6000. But there can be many "while you're in there" items that can increase the cost.

Your vehicle will go into high rpms and not move very much. Also clutch will start to "slip" as your driving it will just start to rev high.

First adjust the cable adjuster so there's plenty of slack in the clutch cable. Remove the derby cover and loosen the locknut in the center of the clutch, then back the adjuster screw out until there is no resistance, about one turn or so.

Next, turn the adjuster screw inward until it bottoms out (but not too hard) and back it out 1/2 turn and tighten the lock nut.

Now adjust the cable so there's just a very small amount of play in the hand lever.

If you've experienced clutch slippage in the past, there's a good chance the friction plates are glazed and/or contaminated with oil. Remove them, soak them in white gas (like Coleman lantern fuel) for several hours and allow them to dry. Do not use plain gasoline or any type of paint thinner!

Then lay each friction plate on a piece of 100 grit sandpaper and rough up the pad surface by sanding in a circular motion. Do both sides of each plate and try to sand all areas equally until all glaze is removed. Also clean the steel plates with white gas and repeat the sanding procedure on them, then reassemble the clutch.

If slippage still occurs, don't continue riding, it will only re-glaze the plates. Instead, adjust the three clutch spring adjuster nuts inward (equally) for more spring pressure. You only want enough spring pressure to avoid slippage so adjust in small stages.

If you're POSITIVE the clutch slave cylinder isn't leaking, there's only two other places it could come from. The clutch master cylinder or the hydraulic line in between the master and the slave cylinder. Maybe I'm confused. Isn't the clutch Master cylinder the one that the owner would check, and the slave cylinder inside the transmission?

VW Golfs have hydrolic clutches that you cannot adjust.

The real question is "what are you trying to adjust?"

If you are looking to make your clutch petal shorter IE like a sport performance clutch you need a "quick clutch" master cylinder. Omni Power Performance has one of the best ones IMHO.

If you are looking to change the engagement point well forget it, the engagement point is based of that master cylinder, if you get a quick clutch, you are either engaged (petal out) or disengaged (petal in). A standard master cylinder gives leeway on the engagement point based on the amount of fluid being pushed through the cylinder.

Standard Master Cylinder Piston Size = About 15cm

Omni Power Master Cylinder Piston Size = About 22

It might be, though the dealer/manufacturer may try to argue that the warranty doesn't cover "user errors". In that case you'll have to be tough and convince them that it was a defect in the car that caused this to happen. Things in the glove compartment shouldn't be flying into the engine!

The bottom line is actually to find out what is covered in the "limited warranty". I would go ahead and try to get a warranty repair.

there is a threaded pin that goes from the linkage to the clutch fork on driver side of bell housing.I believe you turn it in clockwise to lesson the tension bringing the peddle down lower when it grabs

get a book first then pull the axels then the MOTOR AND TRANNY together to save som work put the clutch in out of the vehicle and reinstall as one piece it will take a new mecanic a while so make some time for it and heres a tip label all bolts w/ part it was from and right left top and bottom trust me i did one recently and i wish i had this piece of advice

If the AC pulley is locking up when the ac compressor clutch engages, it's not a clutch problem, it's a compressor problem. But yes, the AC clutch can usually be replaced separately. The problem is, if the clutch is worn out the compressor is probably worn out as well. It usually isn't that much more to replace the whole thing.

If Im not mistaken, the explorers are hydraulic. You will need to bleed the clutch as you would do like your brakes.

Chiltons or Haynes book before you proceed!!!!

DOT3 brake fluid.

1-2ft hose to drain fluids with inner diameter 1/8"

empty water container 12oz would do

Looking at your transmission there should be a plastic tube that goes into your tranny housing, should be closer to the front drivers side. That would be where the bleed nipple is too, it should have a small black rubber over it, peel that sucker off and it will have a nipple that looks like the nipples on your girl (i mean your brakes) slide on that small hose to it 1-2ft long and I.D. (inner diameter) should be 1/8" have an empty water bottle to drain to.

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE NIPPLE, if you break that off or strip it, you will be looking at dropping your entire transmission to change your clutch slave cylinder!!!

Have your partner pump the clutch 5-10 times and while you are HOLDING THE CLUTCH DOWN loosen the bleed valve for ruffly 5 seconds. repeat this process 3-4 times, if theres a hole lot of crap coming out repeat process 10+ times, until clean DOT3 comes out... BTW always make sure the clutch reservor is always topped off or close to full (that reservor is in your engine bay, top driverside firewall).

A heads up to you.. If grey or white-ish crud is being bled out, then thats an early sign of a Master Slave going out. Thats an easy fix! If your clutch reservor is always going low then your slave could be leaking, and your transmission will be getting pulled very very very soon, depending on what kinda driver you are.

all in all, all ford trucks in the 90's are extremly dependable. Mine has 180K Hawaii miles (stop n go miles)