Clutches and Flywheels

changing the clutch is the same as other honda, you take off the nuts on both axle, remaove the shock the camber, reamove the axle, remove the bolt from the tranmission and then remove the tranmission from the egnine, the clutch is attech to the engine. remove the clutch and put in the new one and then put every thing that you take off back that it is should take about 4 hours...

Before dropping the transmission you should have disconnected the battery for you will also need to remove the starter, the speedometer as well as the axles. It is a good idea to disconnect the shiftlinkage at this time too. With the car on stands and all above done you can disconnect the trans mount and lower it on a jack before unbolting it from the engine you have the choice to disconnect the front and rear motor mounts and support the motor with a jack. this will angle the motor and make for removing the trans a little bit easier.

It all depends on your driving style and how often the clutch is used. If you do a lot of city driving, the clutch will last far fewer miles than if you drive hundreds of miles without stopping. If you "ride the clutch" when you drive, the clutch might not even make 20,000 miles.

The most likely cause is the brake light switch has failed check if the brake lights are working.

1. Check the freon level first..

2. Check the pressure switches..

3. Check the a/c controller..

4. Scan the vehicle computer..

Slippage

The clutch cable which runs from the top of the firewall on the drivers side loops around in front and below the engine to a bracket on the passenger side of transmission. there is an adjustment nut there.

sometimes there is a nut right in the center of the pully youcan loosen but sometimes it is pressure fitted on and you need a special machine to get it off.

Fill Master cylinder Open bleeder on slave cylinder Let fluid run from slave Close bleeder install hose to bleeder on slave Run other end into container partially filled with fluid Have assistant step on clutch Open bleeder Observe fluid running into container Repeat until fluid runs clear (No air bubbles) Tighten bleeder securely

hold

Hydraulic clutch? Maybe a bad rear seal in the clutch master cylinder

Try changing transmission fluid and filter, wrote the first contributor ---------------------------------------- If you find a method, please post it. My latest attempt is to lay a strong magnet on the drain plug--which has no magnet--and hope to pick up some of the alleged debris. I do not understand why, once it frees up, the material is not suspended and does not come out with the dfrain. I have not cleaned solenoids A and B yet and have not tried another TCU. Am not getting codes. If "debris in the (internal) modulator valve" is the problem, is there any way to clear it without dismantling the trans? If "debris" is not the problem, what might it be? I replaced one, but not both, temp sensors. As the problem worsens, it does feel as if crud it clogging a valve, but how to free it? Is there a filter? Where? Stuart sfiller@ameritech.net --------------------------------------------------

The clutch master cylinder is in the engine compartment and the slave cylinder for the hydraulic clutch is inside the manual transmission bellhousing

Actually , the clutch on a 1996 Ford Mustang is not hydraulic , it is operated by a cable so there isn't any clutch fluid

Your adjustment isn't on the pedal, it's an adjusting nut on the end of the cable on the transmission. If the adjustment on the "engine" (do you actually mean the cable on the transmission?) is out all the way, then it is time for a new clutch. Just read the listings on here for clutch removal. It should only take about 30 minutes unless you are a complete idiot, then it will be about 12 hours.

I had this problem when my 2003 trailblazer was under warranty. I took it into the dealer twice to try and have them fix it. The first time, they told me there was a software patch to fix it. They said they put in the software patch, but it wasn't fixed. The second time I took it to the dealer, they said this noise was normal. Now, a little over a year later and outside the life of my warrenty, my fan clutch is really broken (refer to question on high fan speed error in a Chevy trailblazer for details on the problem I am currently having - which include a jet engine like noise caused by the fan because the fan clutch is broken) and I am waiting to get it into an independent shop for service.

I don't know if the ticking noise was really normal as the dealership indicated or if it was an early indication of the failure I am currently experiencing. Good luck. I am going to keep searching the net to see if I can find any additional info about whether this ticking noise is "normal" or whether it is an early indication of my current failure. I may even call some other dealers in my area to see what they have to say about the problem.

Wife and I bought a 2002 Trailblazer and would hear that clicking (or snapping) under the hood, infrequently. Took a trip this summer and truck started sounding like your jet or a turbo Peterbuilt. It WAS the clutch fan. Bought it at AutoZone for $199 and installed it myself

check your clutch fluid level and your clutch slave cylinder for leaks,if both are ok,then you probly need a new clutch.

This phrase, "In the fell clutch of circumstance," is a way of describing how people feel trapped in their life situations. Humans are often depressed by the circumstances that seem to control them.

Very carfully

With a fan clutch removal tool from an auto parts store.

This has got to depend on where you live and the labour rates at your local vauxhall dealer.It can be cheaper to use a clutch specialist but parts quality can sometimes be suspect.A ballpark figure is

seems like you have more than one problem. idle problem can be caused by multiple reasons. vacum leak, bad throttle position sensor could be a lot of thinks and hard to say without looking at it. that's why you pay a mechanic soo much money.

your clutch problem seems like you have a leacking master or slave cylinder.

Follow the clutch hydraulic line down to the bell housing. Note where the hydraulic line goes into the bell housing and if there is no bleed valve there you may need to remove a cover. Have a friend/assistant step on the clutch while you open the bleed valve. Close the valve and have the friend let up on the clutch. Do that a few times (making certain that the hydraulic fluid remains full) and you're done.

Your clutch is worn out,your pressure plate is shot,or there is a broken spring inside your clutch,you have to drop your tranny to check this out,been there ,done that! good luck,,toro2.

Hope this helps but first of all,

You gotta be careful fooling with Clutch Cable Adjustment on those things.

Simply Taking the Slack in/out can lead to bad news.

Adjust Procedure is Very Simple to do.

But First You should have an idea of WHY,,before learning HOW

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There's a small variety of Clutch and Clutch ThrowOut mechanisms used on Bikes.

On Yours,,,,the Clutch is Mounted on Right Hand side of "engine".

In the Clutch Cover is mounted the throwout mechanism.

It's a WormGear---like a big,coarse thread screw,,,and has a Lever Arm attatched to it.

When the Cable pulls the arm,,the "Screw Turns" and moves INWARD to press the Clutch Plates apart to disengage them.

Works the same way a Ratchet on a Bolt works.

Pull the Ratchet Handle,,,Screw Threads Inward.

Ok,,,the way Your Clutch Itself is set-up,,,as the Plates Wear the Pressure Plate assembly moves OUTWARD,,away from Engine ...

And TOWARDS the Throw out mechanism.

Think,,,,if the Clutch DISENGAGES By getting PRESSED,,,

It does not matter if ThrowOut Presses INWARD against CLUTCH,,,,,

Or if CLUTCH Presses OUTWARD against Throwout.

Dumb Example>>

You Put a Nail on a Board,,,Hit it with a Hammer & Nail goes into Board.

If You put the Nail on a solid backing,,,and Swung the Board--Hit the Nail with the board,,,

Same Thing happens.

The Nail goes into the Board.

Whether Nail Hits Board,or Board Hits Nail.

Your Kaw's Clutch does same effect as it undergoes Normal Wear.

It Moves OUT to Press against the Solidly Held Throwout.

Which is Same Mechanical Effort as Throwout moving IN towards Clutch.

End Result is that Over Time,,,as Clutch Wears it begins to GRADUALLY Disengage ITSELF.

Thats starts a chain reaction....

Clutch Slips,,gets Hotter,wears More,,,moves Further Out,,which Disengages it MORE,,makes More Slippage,,,heat>wear,,,and so on.

It's like riding the clutch lever,,,half Engaged/half Disengaged.

And it gets Worse over Time,,,the worse it gets,,,the Worse it gets,,,,until Clutch is trashed if it's allowed to continue long enough.

Simply fooling with the cable slack does NOT necessarrily releive the Bind it works itself into.

So,,Cable Adjustment Alone is NOT a correct procedure.

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Actual Adjustment is simple,,,but Must be Done in a CERTAIN Order.

You MUST First Adjust the Throwout Clearance,,

Then You can Adjust Cable Slack.

One Peculiarity is that as the Clutch Wears,,,,The Cable Adjustment TIGHTENS ITSELF.

Procedure:

*Loosen Cable

*Remove Carburettor Cover from R/H Side of engine.

*I prefer to Unhook the Cable for a better Feel---- But at LEAST Make CERTAIN there's PLENTY SLACK in the cable

*You'll see a Small Slotted Screw with a Locknut on it,,on the end of Clutch Cable Arm.

*That Adjustment Screw is in center of the Throwout's Worm Gear,,,and is what Actually Presses on the Clutch.

*Loosen the Locknut,,,

back the Adjuster Screw off a little,,,

and Hold the Lever Down as far as it will go---make sure Cable is not stopping it.

* Turn the Adjuster Screw In/Clockwise until You feel it Contact the Clutch--just barely

*At That Point,,,the ThrowOut Arm should Not Move much at all---Because All the Clearance has been removed by Adjuster Screw.

*From That Point,,,Back Off the Adjuster Screw while Pushing Up on the Lever.

*As You loosen the adjuster screw,,,,that will allow the Lever Arm to "rise",,,and You can move it up & down.

You are Increasing the Clearance between the Throwout and the Clutch.

* The Arm needs to be able to come up Almost Horizontal,,,"pointing straight forward".

And just a Bit pointing Down from there.

Somewhere between 3:00 and 4:00 O'Clock position.

*That position does 2 things

a)it positions the lever to have enough travel for a Clean Break of the Clutch Disengagement so it does Drag

b)It allows enough Clearance for Clutch to wear Into the Throwout,,,,and be Adjusted by Replacing the lost SLACK in the HAND Lever.

*You cant adjust the throwout Arm All the way Down at end of it's range,,,because That's Bottomed Out.

When it eventually gets TIGHT again from Wear,,,You would have to Remove the Cover and Re-Do the Adjustment Screw again.

*Leave some slack in the Actuator ARM,, and You'll be able to do Future Adjustments Quick and easy at the Hand Lever or the cable's inline adjuster.

*Set your Hand Lever Adjuster about 2 turns Out

Use the adjusters on the Cable to take almost all the Slack out.

Then use the Hand Lever Adjuster to make Fine/Final Adjustments.

Leave a LITTLE Slack in the Hand Lever.

Most Folks adjust Clutches 'cuz of the Cable getting Slack.

But on Clutche Setups like Yours,,,you also must be aware of LOSING Slack,,and cable "tightening itself up".

Because Clutch is wearing and moving Closer to Throwout.

So always Keep a Bit of Slack.

One other thing to mention---

The Lever itself,,If it has ever gotten Bent and sorta Straightened Out,,,,that will Limit the amount of ARC that you can pull it IN.

Travel,,,Throwout Range is Reduced by that,,,and sometimes enough to prevent Clean,Free-Breaking clutch disengagement.

I'm gonna tell you this,,I dont care what anybody Thinks,,,and You Do whatever you want.

The BEST gearbox/Clutch oil You can use is ANY plain ol' Automatic Transmission Fluid for Cars.

Thats a whole 'nother story which I'll skip.

But,,,it Only costs a Couple Bucks to TRY IT.

Is it SAFE to even TRY it??

Go Figure---

A Big Block American V-8 LIGHT TRUCK Automatic Transmission ,,,

Makes 400~500 Ft Lbs of Torque,,,

pulls TONS of Load,,,

turns at Just about as High an Input Shaft Speed as a Bike,

Runs SO HOT they pipe the Fluid into the 200* Radiator to COOL IT,,

And runs on Such a Low Total VOLUME capacity,,if it loses more than a Quart out of 20~25 QTs,,,it wont even Work.

And they run for 75~100~150,000 Miles with NO Maintenance in Millions of Vehicles.

What's MOST amazing,,,is that the Size of the Gears,,,and Clutches in GM 400,Ford C6,Mopar 727 Automatics,,,,are Barely more than only Twice the Size of Your 200lb,,6ft/lb Torque,, Manual Transmission Motorcycle

Fairly Safe to use 400Ft/Lb Torque, 6000Lb Load,,100,000Mi Trans Oil ,

in a Trans that doesnt have to endure 1/10 of such conditions.

At least for a couple days so You can see for Yourself what it Feels like in your bike.

If it Shifts and Clutches better,runs quieter,cooler and feels like it has more power going thru the gears,,,and is Made for protecting Seals and gaskets,,,how bad can it be?

Most folks who never tried it and dont know know anything about it will try to scare you away from doing it.

They feel better pouring motor oil into a gearbox.

But,,,thats all up to You.

All those lil' Kawasakis were really cool bikes,,tuff,ran well,rode good.

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Cover showing Throwout,,with Carb Cover removed.

Different Year than yours,,I think this one's cable comes thru front/bottom,,,and Yours comes thru Top.