Clutches and Flywheels

Nope, you don't even have to single clutch... I work with a few people who only touch the clutch when making a full stop. Personally, I think it's hard to do, and I single clutch. If you're ever testing with DOT, you best make sure you're double clutching though, because that's the "correct" way to shift, in their book.

On a Dodge the clutch is only covered for 12 months/12,000 miles, After that is is considered a wear item.

64 to 67 ft. lbs.

The Ford 302 engine will not bolt to the 300 six-cylinder bell housing. A new bell housing or a Bell housing modification kit will need to be used.

First, lubricate the large nut on the fan clutch with wd-40 or equivalent. Let it soak overnight if you have time. Then you will need a strap wrench to wrap around the pulleys to hold them from turning. Next, take an open end wrench and loosen the nut. The threads are left-handed, so turn opposite of normal way. Autozone can probably loan you the proper tools for free, just pay a refundable deposit. Good luck! use a strap wrench to keep pulleys still. nut is left-handed,ie,backwards.use wd-40.

Buy the manual. If you have never attempted this before and can't do it by reading the manual, then don't try it. It's not worth screwing up and killing someone.

your clutch run's of off your brake fluid the place where you put your brake fluid in to fill it up there is a hose the run's from it. it goes to your clutch master cylinder

no a grinding problem is usually in side the trans and what is grinding are the gears...there are brass bushing called sincros that help transfer from gear to gear...since the "sincros" are brass they wear and when they wear there isn't the smooth transaction from gear to gear...sincros are really cheap but to have them installed gets pricey because of the labor time..

There are several forums that describe how to replace a skimmer. Assuming you have a concrete walled pool, it will require pouring of cement and doweling epoxy coated metal rods into the existing wall. If this isn't done it will crack and cause additional skimmer leak problems. Assuming the above, and even with an exact replacement, it would be impractical to try and save the liner, and to assume that cutouts and holes will line up etc. However, if it is a budget challenge and you have no choice, a less cosmetically appealing attempt could be to apply a patch over the existing cutout. This would require obtaining a section of pool liner (such as a 16 x 24 inch piece), vinyl pool patch cement,and, of course, creating a fairly large patch that extends to the upper lip of the liner and several inches around the perimeter of the skimmer. (This patch will never match your existing liner ...thus the reason it would be less appealing.) After lowering your pool water level, remove the skimmer bezel (on the water side of the pool liner) and, leaving the upper lip of the liner locked in it's channel, apply the patch in place. (This you would do before attempting any skimmer repair.) Let the patch dry for a day, make certain it looks well sealed, and then pull the liner out of the channel sufficiently enough to conduct the skimmer replacement work. After the new skimmer is in place, carefully reinstall the liner in the channel. Install the new bezel and screws and cut out the skimmer hole. When installing the liner section back in the channel, keep a pot of very warm water nearby. You will likely need to pour it on that section of liner to allow it to strectch into place. Bob

As you press the brake pedal it pushes a rod inside the master cylinder that has seals on it which in turn forces brake fluid through the lines dowm to the wheels. This pushes out pistons in the calipers & wheel cylinders which have friction material attached to them (brake pads & brake shoes) against metal surfaces (rotors & drums) and slows the vehicle down. This is a very simpified explaination.

It's actually easy. The first step is to loosen the master cylinder from inside the truck. It's hooked to the clutch pedal so you cant miss it,,

2. Use the disconnect tool to get it loose from the transmission..

3. Pop out the inner fender over the driver side wheel well. Gently pull the line through the frame and out of the inside of the truck, bring it over the driver side wheel,

4. Get a friend and use the plunger that hooks to the peddle to bleed this part . Pump it up. Have a friend hold on to the part that goes in the trans as you push on the plunger. This will bleed the master cylinder so you can have pressure on the throw out bearing inside the trans when put back together.

5. After that, put it back together and then use the bleeder valve on the side of the trans. Pump the clutch up, open the valve and have a friend push the peddle down. ( Do not let off peddle be for closing the valve ) .

If you do not have a clutch after that, use a flat bar, slide it through the opening inside the trans, pump the clutch back up, open the valve and use the bar to push the throw out bearing back to the back of the truck to force the remaining air out. Once again do not let off the bar until the bleeder valve is closed . That should take care of the complete system.

Additional information.

While I am not a Ford mechanic, I can offer the following words:

If the 1994 Ford Ranger is like the 1997 Ford Ranger, the clutch slave cylinder is INSIDE the transmission bell housing. You don't have to be a mechanic to recognize the labor involved to get at it (to bleed it). My 97 Ranger clutch would not engage following two days of 20 below zero (F) weather. I figured the weather had something to do with the malfunction and that it would be prudent to wait until it got above freezing to bleed the clutch MASTER cylinder (which is outside, and in front of, the bell housing). It got above freezing 2 weeks later, I bled the (easily accessible) Master cylinder - and guess what? The clutch still didn't engage. I towed the wretched machine to the nearest Ford qualified mechanic and 700 dollars and 4 days later the bitter truth was revealed: Ford Engineers can't design a fluid clutch assembly that can be reasonably maintained without dropping, and splitting the transmission (and without dropping a lot of cash)!

There is a great tutorial on AutoZone's site on how to do my 1997 Ranger 2.3L 2WD.

If your transmission has a bleed valve for the slave cylinder sticking out just above the master to slave cylinder quick connect going into the trans, then this tutorial is for you.

The transmissions in the Ford Rangers are actually designed and built by Mazda, Most are the M50 R1 5 speeds. The clutch throwout bearing and slave cylinder are replaced as a single unit which ups the price. You have to drop the trans, but the case is not split for replacing the slave. Yep, I have a 1995 Ranger and the slave bleed valve is located on side of bellhousing. If you loosen your clutch pedal (won't disengage) check the level of brake fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. Try and bleed the system with fresh brake fluid until the fluid runs out clear. Mine was black as coal when I first bled mine and after several minutes of bleeding the system the fluid ran clear and the clutch pedal worked again. I have not had any problems with the clutch since then. I do need to add a bit of fluid every once in a while.

Another answer

Hydraulic clutches are all the same on cars. The main thing is figure out a way to tighten those fluid pipelines very tightly so that there are no leaks, It is very important to bleed them just once or else you wont get a nice pedal. The very main key once you install them is 'never touch', that is it, that's is why you want to get the bleeding done right away. When bleeding make sure you fill the bleeder vacuum pump reservoir all the way. The reason is so that you are sure it is really flush and no going back. Thats it, once you install them both never touch after that. If you have the original dealer parts they last around 85,000 miles.

This is a quick release and needs a clutch coupling removal tube T88T-70522-A or equivalent. Slide the sleeve toward the slave cylinder while pulling the tube away from the slave cylinder.

Not sure, but I think it should be located on the clutch pedal arm under the dash. Kind of like your brakelight switch.

how do u replace a flywheel in a Chevy zr2 s10 2003 v6

First you must remove the four bolts on the front side of the pulley. (You possibly have gotten this far already).

On the back side of the fan is a large nut tight up against the pulley. It is often frozen on there, either requiring a special GM tool, or some other means to hold the pulley.

I used a bar of steel (actually a metal ruler) and drilled a hole (about 1/4") in it near the edge, using it as a lever by holding it on with a pulley bolt.

Once the nut is broken loose, it's pretty easy.

You simply unbolt the two floor bolts, remove the shifter, and install the new one the same way. Be aware early (65 and older?) are a pin type, later are the more common ball type You simply unbolt the two floor bolts, remove the shifter, and install the new one the same way. Be aware early (65 and older?) are a pin type, later are the more common ball type

Transmission Input Shaft

the back right corner under the hood

Can be reached from the trunk

the cluth cable is attached to the very top and back side of the clutch pedal by a small hook. Simply slide the hook end of the new cable to it. the other end goes through the firewall located by the stering colume. Attach the other end of the cable w/ the adjustible threaded side to the release lever located on the transmission housing top side. Tighten down the cable w/ a 10mm wrench until the cable is tight anbd your done

Primarily clutch friction plates perforated for cooling. In automatic transmissions and other wet clutches, the holes distribute oil. In both wet and dry clutches, the holes also allow wear particles to “escape” the friction surface and to get them out of the way.

Your clutch has to be engaged when you start your mower or at least my craftsman mower does. If it dies when you release the clutch pedal, it is due to the engine shutoff relay which is wired to the electric clutch. There are 2 wires on the lower left side of the mower that run along the inside of the frame to the clutch. These wires run just above the mower deck belts and connect to the top of clutch. They are so close that sometimes they get entangled with the deck belts causing them to be torn loose or rub the insulation off and expose the bare wire (which will cause it to ground out if it comes in contact with metal). You need to find and inspect these two wires all the way from the clutch to the point they come up through a hole in the frame floor that the engine is bolted to.

No, all of the sj410 and samurais are mechanical cable clutchs. The adjustment for pedal free play can be found on a bracket on the passenger side of the block, just behind the motor mount.

Sorry but that's kinda funny. Well if it is going to the floor and your pulling it back up that's not how it is suppose to work. Check the clutch fluid and make sure its at the top if it is not then top it up. Go to a parts supplier and they will sell you the right fluid to top it up. If it is a the top then it will need a new clutch put in. The reason they go to the floor is because either 1. The person driving doens't know how to drive standard or 2. The person driving does way to many burn outs which wears the clutch pressure plate down so far that it cant push itself back up. If it needs a new clutch make sure that you replace the throw out brearing, clutch plate and pressure plate.

Look near the brake master cylinder for a reservoir or your brake fluid and clutch fluid might share the same reservoir