Dodge Durango

to reset mine is 2003 ram I ran batt too low, disconnect batt terminals net and los for 1-2 min May as well pull fuses while waiting look for engine control or start engine , etc fuses, just unplug and plugg back in It helped mine Had to replace gas cap yet? First check runner grommet, it gets wedged back too far not a tight seal, Tim

The fuel filter is in the gas tank therfore u must remove the tank to replace it If it's like a 99 durango, it's part of the fuel pump and the whole thing will need to be replaced.

How do you fold down the back seat of a 2004 durango?

5.0 quarts , with engine oil filter change

While the Durango fuel capacity changed from year/design the average fuel capacity of the Dodge Durango is 24.6 gallons

If it had a 5.2L, yes.

If it had a 5.2L, yes.

1997 to 2004

Bank one is on the driverside of the vehicle.

Typically this is the heater core bypass tube.

Takes warmer block coolant to heater core for faster cabin warm up.

It is hidden behind the instrument panel and right beside the top left vent in the dash on the drivers side. I'm not talking about the vents on the very top of the dash where the windshield is. You will have to POP the plastic instrument cover / dash off. It just snaps in place.

Follow the lower radiator hose to the engine, it is there.

It means there are no codes

No.

It is located on the driver side rear of the engine block, just above the oil pan.

Check engine light, low power, poor fuel economy, etc.

The 2006 Toyota Avalon has front wheel drive.

On the right side of the engine Block manafold

Pull the switch and change bulb in rear. 1 for night light and 2nd for fog light indicator.

The thermostat is located (facing the front of vehicle) under the left end of the main upper radiator hose. Disconnect hose from flange by squeezing hose clamp until free. Two bolts hold the flange down and they are NOT the same length. Keep track of which length comes out of which hole. Lift the flange and remove by 1/2 turn to the left (note the single tab on the flange...remember which direction it faces. The thermostat is now full exposed and may be lifted out. Before you do, make sure you not only have a new thermostat but also a new gasket. Scrape old gasket away, apply new gasket, then re-place thermostat, flange and hose. Be gentle with the hose as it has a plastic piece in the middle (holds the fill cap) and I have seen them easily broken.

there are several screws along the bottom of the dash board, take them out then the top has clips holding it in , they just pop out.

I have a 1992 ecoline E150 van andtrying too un hook the alarm

Good luck trying to find it. Pull the lower hose. It is faster and does the same thing. I never did find the one for my Dakota. This is what I did. Good luck.

The only way to remove the one-way security screws is to drill them out with a cobalt drill bit. The best cobalt bits made are from snap-on and the 4 bit kit (left handed or right handed bits) run approximate $150.00 for the set. You also need a VERY precise drill (air or electric) and a ton of cutting agent to prevent the bit from over heating.

There are also one-way screwdrivers available for purchase at hardware and home improvement stores.

I just did my 1998 Durango starter today so this is applied information.

1. Set the parking brake and chock (block) both rear tires. Double check the parking brake.

2. Disconnect Both battery cables (most people do one but if the ground falls to a ground source the circuit can still be completed. Do both its safer and insures no electrical issues)

3. Jack up the left front side (this isn't required but makes working under it easier and more comfortable)

4. Remove the skid plate (three bolts in front, two on each cross-member in back. These bolts are 15mm). Remove both the skid plate and cross member together. Just unbolt them from the frame.

5. Reach over left front tire through fender well and take the two nuts off the starter wires. The small ignition nut is 5/16. The one from the battery is 1/2. Move the wires out of the way so they don't snag the starter later.

6. Reach through the fender well again and remove the TOP starter bolt. This is a 5/8 bolt. NOTE: There is a transmission line bracket held by this bolt as well.

7. Crawl under the truck and remove the bottom starter nut (yes nut. its on a stud). This one is a trick because its in a tight spot but can be done with a 5/8 deep socket.

8. Now the starter is completely unbolted and loose. push it towards the front of the truck. You will find it hangs up on that transmission line bracket i noted in line 6. just bend the bracket a little bit (DONT GET IGNORANT WITH IT!! You will need to bend it back on the install).

9. The starter will now come out easily between the exhaust pipe and the frame (right where the skid plate bolted up). It may take a slight turn or twist to get it out but its pretty easy.

USEFUL NOTES: This job took me about two hours to do. There is no specialty tools required. The tools you need are as follows:

1/2 socket or wrench (battery cables on both ends)

15mm socket or wrench (skid plate)

5/8 deep socket (starter bolts)

5/16 wrench (ignition nut on starter)

To reinstall just do steps in reverse (dont forget the transmission line bracket)

The fuel filter is not external. It is inside the tank, part of the fuel pump module.

The fuel filter is not external. It is inside the tank, part of the fuel pump module.