Dodge Intrepid

Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Use a Auto Scanner tool,fallow step by step reading process,take note witch code number "show" as deffected,possible sensor fail, after replaces erase code using your Auto Scanner.Do it the same if another code number come out. Unless you have a code checker with a reset switch, the easiest way to reset the light is just to remove the negative battery terminal for several minutes. That will usually do it. Also, you don't actually need a code checker to pull the codes. With the engine shut off, you can quickly turne the key back and forth twice between the OFF and RUN positions. On the third switch from off to run leave it in the run position. The engine light will flash one or more two-digit codes. For example, if the light blinks twice, then pauses, then blinks three more times that's error code 2-3. Answer Use a Auto Scanner tool,fallow easy step by step reading,note witch code number "show as " defected,possible sensor fail,after replaces,erase code using your Auto Scanner.Do it the same if another code number come out until none code number appear.You finish.

If you check with your local dealer I am sure you will be disappointed to find out that the fuel filter is a part of your fuel pump. The only way to change one is to change the entire assembly.

The air intake .

Not necessary. The computer will reset itself after a few driving cycles.

# Release decklid latch and open decklid. # Remove trunk lining from rear closure panel as necessary to gain access to tail lamp fasteners. # Remove nuts attaching tail lamp to rear closure panel. # Remove tail lamp from rear closure panel. # Remove socket(s) from tail lamp unit. # Pull lamp from socket.

there is a T.S.B 08-36-99 I believe....just going from memory

it involves a vent wire installed in the connector at the o.p.s.

just pull on front underseat, lift straight up and there you go

The problem you describe is not uncommon on any vehicle on which the wheels have not been removed for a long time. Usually, the cause is RUST which has formed in the small space between the back side of the wheel and the surface of the axle hub wheel mounting flange. This thin layer of rust tends to bond the two surfaces together, sometimes making it almost impossible to break loose by hand. There are several ways to "crack" the rust film bond, releasing the wheel. I will suggest them in order of least violent to greatest. Regardless of method, before trying to break it loose, for the sake of SAFETY, reinstall all the lug nuts. Do not screw them down all the way, only 3 to 5 threads on. This will capture the wheel and prevent the possibility of the wheel "flying" off the vehicle when the bond breaks loose. It also will help to protect the threads on the studs. 1. Try kicking the tire at several places around its circumference. DO NOT kick it violently enough to knock the vehicle off of the jack or stands. I suggest that the jack be "backed up" with some kind of blocking beneath the axle or a-frame. 2. If 1 is not successful, take a hammer and carefully [so as not to damage the lugs or deform the wheel] tap all around the hub area [only where the wheel contacts the axle hub flange] of the wheel, which hopefully will break the rust film. 3. If 2 is unsuccessful. try applying something like penetrating oil, WD-40, Rust Buster, or a similar liquid product [available at all auto supply stores] which is designed to penetrate, loosen and free rusted parts. Follow the label directions, and make sure to apply to the cracks and crevices around the lug studs and the hole in the center of the wheel. This will enhance the penetration into the contact area between the back of the wheel and the axle hub flange. After allowing the rust treatment several minutes to penetrate and work, take the hammer again and carefully tap all around the wheel in the area between and around the studs and therefore over the area where the wheel and hub are in contact. At the same time, if you have someone else to assist, have them gently "rock" the tire while you tap the contact area. If none of these methods are successful, I suggest replacing the lug nuts, tighten them properly, and take your vehicle to a TIRE SHOP where the professional personnel are experienced in solving this problem. Good luck ! j3h

Check for a weak or dead battery Check for loose or corroded battery cables Could be a seized engine Could be a bad starter or bad starter solenoid

On the 3.5 intrepid engine, the water pump is run by the timing "belt"- no timing chain on this motor. Not sure about the 3.3 motor.

On the 3.3L the water pump is driven by the serpentine belt.

it does that because it has a generator which makes the engine makes these sounds

Autozone.com his a free online repair manual for the Dodge Intrepid and many other make and models. Also if your engine is a 3.5L V6 the water pump is driven by the timing belt, which would require you to set the engine at TDC and take the belt off.

P0700 EATX code present. You need to check the trans computer for codes.

Dah....Take out the old one and get a new one.....(fuse box)) or fuse.. It is slot number 9

OK.. at the very left side of the dashboard (where it butts up against the driver's door) there is a cover. Remove this cover and underneath is the fuse panel, called the "junction block".

Fuse #6 of this block (top right corner) is the fuse you need to check. The fuse might be installed into either 6A or 6B (if installed into 6A, the lighter has power all of the time. If installed into 6B, it only has power when the key is on). If the cigarette lighter socket is physically intact, but not working, then most likely this fuse is blown. You can pull it out and look at the small filament underneath the clear plastic. It should look like a small wire stretching from one terminal to the other. If it is burnt or broken then the fuse is bad.

These fuses are very inexpensive, usually less than a dollar or two, and any parts store should carry them.

Also keep in mind, a bad heating element in the cigarette lighter itself, loose change dropped down into the lighter socket, or a malfunctioning accessory (such as a cell phone charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket) can cause this fuse to blow, so if it blows again you need to pay attention to what you did when it happened so you can take the appropriate action.

there is a red plastic cover over a bolt on the drivers side close to the top of the strut. the cover should say pos. or just a plus simbol. on the bolt is a cable that runs down to the battery. place the positive cable first on the bolt then the negative cable away from it on any solid ground such as a bolt going into the hood latch

This is easier than you think. I too thought I would just open the hood and twist out the old lamp from the housing. Then I realize you can not access the back. So this is how you do it. You will find two screws that look alike on each end of the complete housing. One is located just behind the leveler and the other is located close to the fender. When you unscrew them, you will find they are about 7"long. The the whole housing will come right out and you change the build like you would expect to. Dont call an expert...you can do it.

Next to the clock are two indented dimples. One has an "H" next to it and the other an "M". Pushing in the "H" one will advance the Hours and the "M" will advance the minutes.

It is in the transmission, part of the range sensor.

Turn key to "on" position without starting engine for about 5 seconds Do this twice

yes, there is a gas in a light bulb you energise it and it glows.

I RESEARCHED THIS QUESTION AND FOUND THIS ANSWER FOR YOU -Richard Castro Jr. from East Los Angeles richardcastrojr@yahoo.com From http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-23910.html 05-10-2004, 11:17 AM It's in front of the right (passenger) side front wheel, there is a removable access panel for getting it out with the wheel turned hard to the right, if looking under the hood, look down low on the right side and you/she will see it, its sort of buried under some other stuff. Bob