Dodge Intrepid

I found this link below that is how to replace strut mounts in general. I'm not sure if you have a situation specific to a 99 Intrepid. My 98 Intrepid is in the shop right now getting the front right done. I wouldn't mess with it if I were you - if those springs pop off you just might be dead. For me, new strut $100 and labor is $120. If you do it, you'll need to compress that spring, likely you'll have to cut the mount off with a torch, take the compressed spring and put it on the new strut, there will be other parts you need to salvage from your old strut, hopefully you can save the mount. http://www.tutorom.com/courses/767/Replacing-the-Strut-Mounts-on-Your-Car-Free-Auto-Repair-Instructions.htm I found this link below that is how to replace strut mounts in general. I'm not sure if you have a situation specific to a 99 Intrepid. My 98 Intrepid is in the shop right now getting the front right done. I wouldn't mess with it if I were you - if those springs pop off you just might be dead. For me, new strut $100 and labor is $120. If you do it, you'll need to compress that spring, likely you'll have to cut the mount off with a torch, take the compressed spring and put it on the new strut, there will be other parts you need to salvage from your old strut, hopefully you can save the mount. http://www.tutorom.com/courses/767/Replacing-the-Strut-Mounts-on-Your-Car-Free-Auto-Repair-Instructions.htm Macpherson struts can be dangerous to work on, so if you don't know what you're doing ask, or get someone that does. That being said there should be no torching involved, in fact torching on a strut is even more dangerous as the gas or oil in the strut insert(the shock part of a strut) can get over heated and explode. It is a rather simple yet labour intensive process. First put the car on Jackstands. Next you want to remove the wheel, and brake parts, using a ziptie or small rope to hold the caliper up to it doesn't hang on the break line damaging it. The brake line may be held into a tab with a clip, and the tab sometimes has to be cut and bent partially to get the brake line out without disconnecting the 2 ends and the having to bleed the brakes later. Next you want to loosen but not remove the top strut mount bolts, there usually are three, they are small usually between 12 and 15 millimeters, do not loosen the big nut in the middle just yet. Next is to remove the 2 bolts holding the strut assembly to the lower control arm. You then remove the top nuts, and work the strut assembly off of the CV Axle, some cars may require that you remove the CV Axle first, and that requires draining the transmission first to avoid making a very big mess. Once the strut assembly is off the CV Axle it should come out with a little twisting. Now comes the part to be very careful with. You can usually rent this tool from your local autoparts store. You need the correct spring compressor, they should be able to tell you which one you need at the same store you rent it from. You want to get the tool as close to the ends of the spring as you can to get better and safer compression. Compress the spring until the tension is off of the strut assembly. Next you will remove the large top nut. There should be a flat spot on the top of the insert close to the upper mount that you can get a wrench on to hold it in place while loosening the upper nut. Once the nut is removed you can slide the top mount off and the spring keeping an eye out for spacers and washers, and taking note as to where and what order they came off in. be very careful with the spring as it is still under tension and can cause severe injury. My recommendation is to either place the spring some where safe and out of the way, or slowly decompress it and leave it until you are ready for re assembly. There should be a ring nut on the top of what you have left, these can be very tricky to get off, and require a very large wrench or pair of pliers. Once it is removed the strut insert can be removed and replaced. Look out for oil that has leaked down inside the strut tube, and clean it out if necessary. Re assembly is just backwards once again being extremely careful with the spring, and replacing any spacers and washers in the correct locations and order.

if its the 3.5L the sensor is right on top, at the front of the engine. the cam sensor is near it just to the driver side of the top of the engine. The intake has to be loosened enough to get the cam sensor out form under it. The crank sensor is easier to get out.

Can i replace an '01 intrepid 3.2L engine (blown) with a '02 intrepid 3.5L engine if i use the '01 wiring harnass on the 3.5L? Both engines look identicle for the most part, only difference is the plug to the ECM.

Its a dealership part

It could be one of two things. Check all your doors to make sure they are closing properly. if so then check the switches. it should either be a pin swith somewhere in the door jamb of it might be inside the door where the latch is

It is in front of the engine, behind the grill.

gfl

5.3

IT COULD BE THE THERMOSTAT, THE VEHICLE BEING LOW ON COOLANT, OR A MODE DOOR WITHIN THE DASH

If the fuel gauge isn't working properly, then the problem is probably related to the fuel sending unit in the trunk. To check it, do the following: 1.Remove the trunk carpet. 2.Put some Ohmeter probes on the sending units elctrical terminals and check for resistance. 3.The first check should be done when you know the tank is full and the resistance should be about 6 ohms. 4.When the tank is almost empty check it again. Resistance should be about 1,035 ohms. 5.If the readings aren't correct, or if there's hardly a change in them, replace the sending unit. Just so you know, you can check the unit by removing it from the car and moving the float assembly manually and using the method above.

Probably in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

Front

No, you need a 2.7, or preferably a 3.2 or 3.5 liter between 1998 to 2004 for this car. It will probably cost more than the car is worth to replace the motor at this point.

It is in front of the radiator.

Check to see if the radiator is full of coolant. If not then fill it. Pressure test the system to 16PSI. Check for leaks and repair as needed. Start the engine and let it warm up. At around 235 degrees the cooling fans should come on and stay on until about 195 degrees. If they do not then repair as necessary and repeat the procedure.

the input and output speed sensors are on th driver side of the transmission located one on each side of the dipstick

your shifter linkage is probably broken.

Ah, the radiator cap on a Dodge Intrepid is usually located on the top of the radiator itself. You'll want to wait until the engine cools down before opening it, and remember to twist it slowly to release any built-up pressure. Just like painting a happy little tree, take your time and be gentle with it.

It is highly recommended that you obtain the service manual from the site below or from www.amazon.com (maybe cheaper) or from www.bn.com before attempting to work on the fuel line or any component related to it; there are some initial steps that you must do to ensure your safety. The ISBN 1 56392 3165 and part# 25025 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1091887,parttype,10335

chech at each door pin swicth and see if any one is rusted check tne interior lite swicth is bad or repace it.

try changing your rotors if there is no front end problems drive safe Alternate diagnoisis: The symptoms you describe sounds like a problem with the lower A frame ball joint. To check, raise your car taking all weight off of the wheel making the noise, remove tire and inspect the ball joint's rubber seal, if the rubber is brittle or damaged you may have damage to the ball joint. Also try moving the wheel assembly by hand to see if there is any give in the joint. These lower A frames are fairly inexpensive, but replacing them can be a chore and not something I would recommend for an inexperienced mechanic.

either way, if you have just the bleeder valve or the valve attached to the coolant transfer tube, you have to remove the intake manifold to get to the bolts on the valve. I tried to do it myself, but I had theube attached to it, and couldn't get the manifold off enough the replace the tube, so I'm a bit less helpful I that sense, but if it's just the valve, you can get to the bolts and take off the valve and replace all the tubes and whatnot relatively easily.

It would be possible to cause an oil leak while replacing the water pump.

That is the electronic automatic transaxle.