Dodge Intrepid

I had that happen with my 96 intrepid, because I used the power trunk all the time. When I need to use the key, it wouldn't go all the way in or turn. So I used WD40 in the lock, and worked the key in and out until it when in easily. Then I did the same thing for turning the key. Once I got it working I used dry graphite to keep the lock lubricated after that. Hope it helps.

Low coolant/anti-freeze could be an issue.If there's a squeaking noise, it could be the bearings in the water pump. The serpentine drive belt could be loose or worn,causing the water pump pulley to not spin as fast as it should. Yes it could. Be forwarned that aftermarket waterpumps on this particular engine should be avoided. Have your mechanic use an OEM one. There is also a very specific bleed procedure that needs to be used on this motor. If your mechanic is unaware of it, he needs to check www.IATN.com for the details. It is about a 45 minute ordeal to correct it. Before you replace the waterpump, have you had any service done to the vehicle that involved the cooling system in the last 3 months? If so, investigate the bleed procedure first.

It's in front of the passenger side rear wheel about 1.5 ft in towards the centre of the car.

Simple, you don't! Remove the passenger's side front tire and there is a little door from which you access the battery. Actually, you do need to remove it. You can't access the terminal posts or the tie-down bracket from the access door. The good news is the process is straightforward, and you don't need to remove the tire. First, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. From here you can remove the six screws holding in the battery access panel. Next, open the hood, unclip the air filter housing and remove the filter. It helps to get the cover up and out of the way by using a spare piece of wire and attaching it to the hood. Now, you're ready to remove the air filter housing. On the right side of the housing (facing the car) you'll notice a fastener with no apparent means of removal. This is a friction grommet, akin to the snaps on a baby's shirt. Grip the housing right above this fastener and give it a firm pull upwards. The housing should pop out over the fastener. The left side is not fastened - there are two "bumpers" that hold it in place on that side. Now you have complete access to the battery and can proceed with the replacement, sliding the battery out through the access door once it's been disconnected. Finally, it's much easier to re-install the battery access door from the top, before re-installing the air filter housing. It's possible, but not easy from down below.

The question you ask is tooinvolved for a proper answer. You need to go to a car parts store, and get arepair manual for your car.They cost about $16.00Or, go to a Public Library.

Support engine from top with hoist or underneath the oil pan using a jack and large flat block of wood. Remove power steering pump and reservoir and set it aside. Adjust alternator to slack and remove alternator belt. Remove passenger side motor mount from frame and from motor. Remove timing cover. Remove old belt (loosening tensioner if necessary) and clean timing gears thoroughly. Recommend replacing tensioner. Be careful when removing or installing the tensioner because it threads into a weak part of the oil pump cover. Set crank gear to the 12:00 mark on the oil pump cover, and cam gear mark to 9:00 (level with cylinder head) with dowel at 12:00. Install new belt and make sure the slack is taken up in the side towards the firewall. Using an Allen wrench apply tension to the belt and temporarily tighten the tensioner. Do not get the belt too tight but no slack either. Turn the motor over several times forward and back to check for interference and for slack in the belt. If you feel interference aside from the normal valve spring force you have either put the belt on wrong or have bent valve(s). If there is slack in the belt, loosen the tensioner and take up the slack again. When you are ready put blue threadlocker on the tensioner bolt and tighten it to just under spec. Be careful not to apply diagonal force on your torque wrench or you will break the oil pump.

At this point you can remove the spark plugs, coil primary wire, and ECM relay, and do a compression check to ensure that you do not have bent valves. If the result of the compression check is good put it all back together. Tighten bolts to the specification listed in the manual. Use red loctite on the crankshaft bolt, they have been known to come out randomly without it. Be prepared for the motor mount through bolt to fail. GM doesnt have it anymore and is listed as a 10.9. I replaced mine with a grade 8.8 and it worked fine. Replace the power steering pump, reservoir, and all belts, lower the motor, and start er up. If there is excessive noise from the timing belt area you have tensioned the belt too much which will shorten its life, or else the tensioner bearing is bad and must be replaced. Otherwise you are done, check the timing and enjoy.

By the way replacing your camshaft and crankshaft seal(s) is economical to do at this point. Don't gouge the shafts when doing it, just poke something into the seal diagonally to get ahold of it and pull it out. MAke sure the seal spring came out with it. To get to the seals the cam and crank gears have to be removed. The cam gear just has a few bolts on the face. The crank gear should slide right off the crankshaft. If it doesn't come off peacefully, don't bother with it unless you are ready to buy a new gear. The reason is that the lip around the back of the gear is easily damaged and without it the timing belt will get shredded or ride off the gear. To get mine off I had to wedge it off with two screwdrivers in the back, and use a propane torch and kroil to heat the gear up and work it off the shaft. Use a good anti-seize or oil when you reinstall the gear onto the shaft.

Also economical to do is replace the water pump. It bolts right into the block. With the water pump you might as well replace your thermostat and heater/radiator hoses too. Don't forget the throttle body heater hoses and the o-ring at the thermostat inlet pipe.

the fuel pump is in the gas tank on all most all fuelinfected cars and trucks, there may be a fuel pump relay somewhere if im correct the filter is integral to the pump and only gets changed if the pump goes bad,if you have a 12 volt test light go to the connector on the fuel pump and see if it lights up when the car is cranking if you have power to the pump then most times its a bad pump,if there is no power then you may have a bad fuse or relay :) Fuel pump is in the gas tank like most other modern cars. The fuel filter is under the car on the passenger side. There is a little trick to getting the fuel line connector to release from the fuel filter. Use the special tool or press a open end wrench against the connector. The Haynes manual explains this fairly well.

I have a 2000 with 3.2L. It is located underneath on the right side looking from front right beside the Oil Filter. It's a real bugger.

The Haynes Automotive Repair Manual (for Chrysler Cirrus Dodge Stratus Plymouth Breeze)1995 - 2000 shows the EGR Valve on the BACK of the engine block (passenger side) with the Solenoid/Transducer mounted just above it. (Figure 6.1a - Page 6-13). Tubing runs from the Exhaust system to the EGR Valve and from the EGR Valve to the Solenoid/Transducer and from the Solenoid/Transducer to the Intake Manifold. Try following the tubing.

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The output speed sensor is on the drivers side of the transmission and to the rear. The input sensor and output sensor are beside each other but have different connector types. common symptoms of a failed output sensor are: Speedometer stops working or is intermittent, transmission is stuck in second gear ( limp mode ) .

check out the online repair manual for your car at autozone.com its free and it helped me find all the fasiners for the plactic bumper cover for my 1979 mustang when I was getting it ready for paint

Most American cars remove the back seat by simply pushing the seat toward the back of the car and pulling up at the same time (the seat part). You can then get to the bolts that hold down the upper part of the seat and pull up to remove it.

You can find the wiring diagram for the starting/charging circuit in a Haynes manual for this car. You can get one at any local parts store. You can also find wiring diagrams at www.the12volt.com

The engine diagram for an intrepid will be in the Dodge intrepid service manual. The manual can be bought through an auto parts, or possibly borrowed from the library.

One reason a headlight lens is cloudy on the inside is moisture getting in because the seal is not good or from a bulb hole. It can be caused from the heat of the bulb, humidity, and direct sunlight.

what is the cost to replace the rack and pinion on a 1994 mercury sable

97 dodge intrepid, new fuel pump, won't start