Dodge Ram

Click the link for a diagram.

Ford V8 352, 360, 390, 406, 427, 428 Firing Order Firing Orders; (352, 360, 390, 406, 427, 428 ) ************* Firewall ************ (Passenger Side) 4 * 8 (Drivers Side) (Passenger Side) 3 * 7 (Drivers Side) (Passenger Side) 2 * 6 (Drivers Side) (Passenger Side) 1 * 5 (Drivers Side) ************ Radiator ************* Rotor Under Cap Spins: Counter Clockwise http://www.boxwrench.net/specs/ford_352-428.htm

It's called different things by different manufacturers but if the computer is not getting a signal from the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) you will get all of the symptoms that you described. fuses loose in their sockets seem to cause all kinds of problems, wiggle fuses while driving and if things start working shim the fuse blades with foil

firing order is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 distributor rotation is clockwise 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

According to Chilton and Haynes the opening temp is between 192 and 199 F.

Which specs are you looking for? It's a 3.9 liter/239 cubic inch inline four diesel engine, used in a lot of construction applications and popular for diesel swaps into midsized SUVs and pickups.

4.02 inch bore, 4.72 inch stroke. 17.5:1 compression ratio. Weighs between 750 - 800 lbs.

30.6 inch length, 24.6 inch width, 37.7 inch height.

You break the law, pollute the environment, and perhaps increase your engine efficiency a bit.

Nothing good as it's illegal to remove the converter. Besides the engine will not run correctly with the converter removed. You will gain nothing.

No, only fuel filter is part of the pump in the tank.

No, only fuel filter is part of the pump in the tank.

The Heater core is difficult to replace on the RAM since it is buried in the plenum box. The box has a convenient door panel that you can open to remove and replace the core. The catch is that the convenient door is on the back of the box and you have to remove the heater box to get to it. This involves removing the steering wheel, steering column, complete dash panel, evacuating the AC, draining the radiator, and finally removing the heater box. Once you have the box out(8-12hrs), the core is simple to replace.

You want to be sure that the core is the problem before you undertake this process. If there is a strong smell of antifreeze in the cab or a puddle of coolant on the passenger side floor, the diagnosis is easy.

Check that the radiator is full, not the overflow tank, the radiator. On a cold engine you can remove the radiator cap and check the level. It should be full. If there is air in the system it will affect cab heating and engine cooling.

Another good check is to feel the two heater hoses going into the firewall from a cold start. The hoses should warm up at about the same rate and get uncomfortably hot-close to radiator temperature.

If the core appears to be OK, the next concern is with the blend doors that divert air through the heater core. This is a common failure on the RAM. Check heatertreater.net for an explanation of the operation of the system and a fix for the common problems. The RAM has four different DC servo motor controlled air flow doors that are susceptible to failure and all of these need to be checked by either observing the symptoms of failure or reading the codes. The problems are easy to fix with the HeaterTreater kits, but the OEM dealer fix requires removing the plenum box as described above. It is a costly repair if you take it back to the dealer and are not under warranty.

The Differential Speed Sensor that is mounted on the top/front of the rear differential. Spray it with some wd40 before trying to remove the retaining bolt and then pry it out.

It is important to know how fast a vehicle is going for many reasons. Since speed effects handing and braking times, you can't make proper driving decisions if you do not know how fast you are going. Speed sensors measure how fast a vehicle is going.

Threshold

Flashing check engine lights on GM vehicles indicate cylinder misfire. There are many reasons an engine may "run rich" but bad fuel/air mixtures will cause cylinder misfires. Also, unlike other trouble codes that cause the engine light to stay on, misfire detects are the only cause of a flashing MIL(malfunction indicator lamp). Therefore the ECM will read "blank" when you scan it. You may want to look at spark plugs and wires. O2 sensors may also be the culprit. Check your intake as well, if the engine isn't getting enough air, it may flood itself with more fuel to compensate for the power loss. And that will cause it to "run rich".

should be on the block about 2/3 way down on the pass. side, or on top of the trans on the drivers side

Yes

1 - 8 - 4 - 3 - 6 - 5 - 7 - 2

The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE

The marked # 1 position on the distributor cap faces to the FRONT / CENTER

The engine cylinder / spark plug locations are numbered :

firewall

8 - 7

6 - 5

4 - 3

2 - 1

front

Remove the door panel, then the wire harnesses, then pop out the master switch.

The door panel removal: Remove the door handle with a star driver, then remove the three Phillips screws holding the panel in place. Next lift the panel up over the door latch. Before pulling the door panel away, unlock and remove the wire harness connectors from the master switch. Turn the panel over, and pop out the master switch, being careful not to snap of the one way clips that hold it in. I saw master switch replacements on EBay between $50 and $100 or you can try the junk yard.

yes you can i have an amp and subs in my 2006 dodge 2500 HD

Crawl up under the truck almost dead center (from the sides of the truck ) and almost inline with the front tires is a black (this could be really dirty so judge accoringly) pan with a bolt in it. its a 13mm bolt and could be a bit tight unbolt this and your oil will drain right out.

The motor that best suites the Lexus SC300 is the Supra TT motor. You can also put the J-Spec Soarer TT motor. It's costly, but it's well worth it if you want the power.

But youll need to know the name of the engine an the different types of the engine not just the car its in....the supra tt had 2 engines the 2jz-gtte vvti an just the regular 2jz-gtte...now if you plan on adding internals to it...such as cams..DO NOT go with the vvti...now if you wanna go jdm style...the soarer came in many different types but the best an only jdm recommended swap is the 1jz-gtte.The 1jz-gtte came out of the JZZ30 soarer....now you have to think about price an how much you wanna spend...for a 2jz with the 5spd your looking at 4 g's easy.. an even higher for the 6spd...around 5500-6000...but for the 1jz you can buy the engine an a 5spd for under 2 g's...but good luck with your swap

9.5 quarts

yes

200

no it's not a hemi.

A misfire is also called "predetonation". Usually it is caused by spark plugs or some deposit in the cylinder / head that is not transferring heat to the cooling jacket, and is prematurely igniting the fuel. Other options might be bad timing, shorted spark plug wires, or carbon tracking under the distributor cap.

could be alot of things, but most common would be spark jump from a bad wire. look inside your engine compartment at night and see if you can see spark from a wire arcing over to the block or something else that's nearby. look on both sides and move your plug wires around. also pull all wires 1 AT A TIME and see if it makes the vehicle idle worse. keep pulling and putting back on each wire till you think you found the bad wire. the bad wire will be the one that when you pull it- THE VEHICLE RUNS THE SAME

or you could have a bad plug, which will be similar to solving as the wire pulling technique.

or you could have something bad inside your distributor weather its points or HEI type distributor.

or it could be timing problems besides that. in which case most carport mechanics need professional assistance.